#16
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I use those Xplor MSO tires on my CX bike most of the year for general dirt/mixed terrain use, and then throw narrower tires on it for cross season (knobbier if it's muddy, which it never is, and a file tread in back most of the time otherwise). Knobby enough for the dry dirt around here, and great float and volume.
Only time I really regretted it was on a ride (the so-called Tainthammer, a central CA 'gravel' thing) that turned out a lot muddier than I'd expected and where I'd have been much better off with like 32 or 35 slicks. |
#17
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atmo |
#18
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That's interesting, because road bikes and cross bikes feel noticeably different to me. I can ride a CX bike in a road race, but I'd prefer a road bike
The idea of a gravel bike...geometry like a road bike with a longer wheel base for stability/road bike bb height/ and room for a wide range of tires isn't a reach at all. Actually makes quite a bit of sense. Organized gravelbike rides and races tend to be very long, which for a lot of folks makes them want something comfortable and fast. Can a CX bike do duty as a gravelbike? Yep. Is is the best tool for the job. No. Has the industry jumped on the bandwagon and used marketing magic to make a larger differentiation than is there. I'd buy that. I'm building one because I love the idea of a do it all gravel/adventure bike. I'll never ride a cross race in my life, but have real gravelbike ride plans. Would love to hear your actual experience.
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Mr. Bob Dobalina Last edited by firerescuefin; 08-29-2014 at 04:41 PM. |
#19
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I just use a basic welded aluminum Trek cx bike. 28 mm Gatorskins/Armadillos or cheap cx tires, depending on how slippery things are. Modified also with road size rings, tighter cassette, same bars and saddle as my road bike. Exact same position as my road bike. This bike sees about 2500 to 3000 miles of gravel every year. I think the only stock parts left are the brake calipers and the headset, everything else has been worn out or broken.
Be prepared to change out shift cables, chains, and tires frequently, I buy several at a time when they are on sale. I usually get less than 1000 miles out of any of these parts. Gravel riding is not the cheapest per mile, but it will keep your handling sharp, you will find out how to keep rubber side down when everything starts to slide around on you. You will work hard and go slower making cold weather more bearable. |
#20
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I'd say the biggest differences have to do with the length of a race. A CX bike is more designed for a closed course, frequent dismount, mud and more mud but with a higher bottom bracket, shorter top tube, and relaxed head angles (to reduce toe-overlap on a tight and slow course) as compared to a road racing bike. Gravel bike on the other hand is either a rebadged CX bike or sometimes a bike covering the middle ground between a CX bike and a touring bike (longer wheel base, comfort a consideration in the design). Case in point, the Kona Rove "gravel bike" is the same redesigned frame that it shares with the Kona Sutra (a touring bike). My guess is the comfort thing is why a lot of bikes being marketed for gravel as opposed to CX are made of steel. In the end, I suspect any real-world differences have more to do with tire and component selection than the geometry of the frame itself. Where I find it difficult to make a distinction is between a bike designed as a drop-bar commuter vs gravel-bike as they seem to be targeting the same market; might as well throw in entry level "CX" bikes with rack mounts into that same category. Last edited by GeorgeTSquirrel; 08-30-2014 at 01:08 PM. |
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