#16
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I run a 1 x 9 on my cross bike and use a Paul's chainkeeper. I'm not real happy with it though. Despite the best attempts of the staff at the LBS, there is still some rub at the far end and I basically just use 8 gears to avoid it.
Overall it works fairly well. I've only dropped my chain once and that was from an unexpected extremely rapid deceleration and rotation to a horizontal riding position. Unfortunately, I didn't notice the chain had dropped and when I got back up and tried to ride off I peddled hard enough to thoroughly wedge the chain to the point that I needed to loosen the crank arm to dislodge it. I'm thinking about mounting an old front derailleur to help prevent this in the future. |
#17
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1x9 setup: chain keeper options?..
Hmm... So a front derailleur is functionally the same as a chain keeper in this application?.. I'd lower it enough to just clear the chain and set the limit screws to keep it in place? (I've like 3 spare FDs laying around.)
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#18
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I tried every keeper option for racing and in cross racing conditions I got the chain jammed with all of them. The Paul one was the worst because it will get rotated with the chain jammed (or the chain will jam and rotate it, whichever) and it can be very difficult to free without tools.
I'm fairly convinced that chain keepers aren't of any use in racing conditions - the risk of jamming is much more time consuming than just putting the chain back on. Not for me anyway. I went to a clutch der to see what happens. Left a bash on the outside but that's just because I'll ride the bike on trails with logovers here. Didn't get a wide-narrow ring yet just because I've heard reports of folks here having success with just the clutch (and I already have a 39t ring). Haven't dropped a chain yet, but this is only practice and training so far. |
#19
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What would have caused the Paul to rotate?
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#20
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Chain untensioned by slap or a crash moving just enough in the wiggle room there is to be able to shift through all 10 cogs > pedals still turning (or the bike or rear wheel landing sideways) > pressure against the keeper > rotated.
I had it tighter than it ought to have been too, but I didn't want to crush the light seat tube of the frame. Obviously one partial solution to dropping chains in this way is "don't crash" but uh that's not going to happen the B and C races around here heh. |
#21
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I wondered if too high/loose contributed.
I'm about to install one. I was planning to go as low as possible. I've also got a clutch rear derailluer to mitigate chain slack. If a clutch rd alone is working, it should also keep the Paul from rotating. |
#22
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Here's what I did. Bashguard cause I hit things(zero-few chain drops). A front mech. except I cut the face off and ran the cable from the nearest stop at the proper tension(tight/low). Surly singulator in the winter and deore xt rear mech. for the rest of the year. The setup was used in all conditions and on all terrains. Yes I'm cheap, but riding a bike is fun!
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#23
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The BBG bash guard and N-Gear Jumpstop combo: 1. works 2. is inexpensive 3. I'm pretty sure supports American businesses (I'm not positive that the N-Gear is made in the U.S. but the bash guard is).
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