#1
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Best sealant for strong bead lock
I just swapped from a 27.5 panaracer sk plus to a rene herse juniper ridge endurance. I used muc off for my sealant. The rim is a wtb i25 hooked rim.
After a couple days I took it on a quick road ride. All good. Today I took it on gravel and had leaking from multiple spots at the bead interface with air loss. So my question is whether folks have experience with some sealants being better on this front. Most testing focuses on sealing 3 vs 4 vs 5 mm holes. Which sealant is best at really locking in that seated bead. Obviously relevant to prevent mountain bike tires from burping too. Also, would bringing the bike in from the garage for a few days help if my garage is only about 45 degrees? |
#2
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Your tire choice is probably the primary contributor to a poor seal. I’ve used muc off and while it’s definitely not my first, more likely close to last choice of all sealants I’ve used, it did work ok; just dried quickly.
The tubeless tape is where I’d look before messing with sealant choices. |
#3
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I've also had multiple frustrating experiences with Muc-off sealant before going back to Orange Seal. Pretty much any other brand-name sealant will do a better job.
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#4
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Extremely satisfied with Silca sealant on tires from 27-45mm. Beads are always sealed tight within an hour of install.
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#5
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I don’t think you should be relying on the sealant to seal the bead to plug what sounds like significant gaps.
A good tubeless tire and tape setup should mount without sealant and hold air decently. Last edited by Likes2ridefar; 02-14-2024 at 07:47 AM. |
#6
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From the title of the threads I knew it was going to be gravel kings.
__________________
Instagram - DannAdore Bicycles |
#7
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Quote:
My understanding is that previous attempts at standardization like UST were intended to work like that - but not the majority of what's on the market today. |
#8
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That is what I meant. I didn’t mean to suggest to take them out for a ride.
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#9
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agree. that's a recipe for problems on the road.
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http://less-than-epic.blogspot.com/ |
#10
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Just to be clear. The initial inflation without air had several of the desired pops and the tire held air before deflating and adding sealant. It only started weeping after hitting the gravel light single track where the torsional forces seemed to weaken the bead seal. No actual burp though.
I could retape. I did a very thin tape layer with a layer of the much thicker wtb on top. Perhaps I’ll go back with a second layer of wtb and orange seal. |
#11
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In my experience the very best results are by using tape 3-4mm wider than the internal width of the rim and using a continuous double wrap (no splicing).
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#12
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Every tire / rim combination is going to be slightly different. I will customize the fit for every setup by adding tape if necessary. This is the only way that you are going to get a reliable seal. If the tire is not super tight onto the rim, sealant is not going to change that.
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#13
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If the tire is holding air, not burping, etc then the weeping should stop after a ride or two.
If it continues to weep, or the tire looses more air than expected overnight, then try re-taping. If that doesn't fix it, it's likely defective tires or a dent in the rim. |
#14
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muc off sealant is garbage and good luck cleaning that stuff out to replace it with something else.
I use stan's race and it works great - I just pulled off some tires last night and its been at least 6 months since I topped off the sealant and there was still plenty of liquid in there. |
#15
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I haven’t used tubes for something like 6 years now and I simply never have weeping after the initial pop and shaking around the tire. Burps yes. Never weeping while riding though. Even the panaracers. I just don’t like them because they are consistently a pita to seat and aren’t durable.
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