#31
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Agreed on the speedvagen checking all the boxes. The motobecane looks pretty cool as the not $10,000 option |
#32
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Getting a road bike to weigh 16lbs isn't particularly hard (read: expensive) these days depending on the frame material. A bike designed for wider tires (33 - 34mm) and mid-reach brakes is going to be the closest to that target--the frame might be a little heavier, and the tires heavier, so now you're pushing 17lbs.
To add discs, a whole bunch of factors that affect weight come into play. The brakes themselves weigh more than caliper or canti brakes. But now the frame and fork need to be stiffer (and heavier) to deal with the stresses of the brakes. A carbon gravel or cross fork weighs more than a road fork. A tapered steerer requires a bigger headtube which as previously mentioned adds weight. Quick release or thru-axle? TA adds weight, but the market seems to have moved in the direction of TA. So, there aren't a lot of places to "save" weight. One big one is to go with a carbon frame. But if one wants a metal frame, then the wheels become the last big variable. Carbon clincher disc wheels are lighter than their aluminum counterparts, but the result for an all-road or gravel build is typically a wheel that weighs about the same as a light aluminum clincher. 18lbs for a ti or steel all-road/gravel disc bike is pretty darn light. |
#33
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Love this thread.
I can also suggest a build around the Open U.P. If you use it with light 650B wheels (like the DT Swiss XR331), you can easy get your awesome off road gravel bike into the sum 8.3 kg...easily. |
#34
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These days, the build kit often outstrips the frame cost...at least steel-wise...for most custom builders. example...Erik at alliance will build you his raceytubeset steel CX frame/fork for about $2600. The Ultegra Ui2 hydro build kit will run just north of $3k. $5600 for a custom built, sub 19lb steel rig. |
#35
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How about doing an aluminum frame and carbon fork? Everyone goes gaga over steel and smooth ride blah blah, but when you have 40mm tires on, does it really make a difference in the ride feel? Niner has the rlt in alu for instance, haven't checked the weight on it though. Trek has the 920 frameset etc.
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#36
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#37
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Lose .375 lb. with mud removal but leave mud for extra rad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
-STEFAN BUY FROM YOUR LBS or from Paceline members |
#38
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I have a path racer or 'gravel grinder' bike built around a non-disc Moots PsychloX, which with shorty strap-on plastic fenders and 35 mm tires/alloy clinchers weighs around 20 lbs. Then again... I haven't yet done any gravel challenge rides/races, but it seems that most of 'em are un-supported... so given you're probably carrying 4 or 5 lbs of water and food, obsessing about weight (as one might do on a road bike intended for a hilly ride) seems a little well, over the top. IMO.
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Old... and in the way. |
#39
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Mudville
The Mudville frameset I have for sale in the classifieds comes in right about 18.5 with mechanical discs, pedals, and a cage.
Last edited by noonan1970; 04-12-2017 at 12:59 PM. |
#40
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40-45mm tires though can hide a lot of ugly. With the added tire weight, aluminum might be the only way to hit a sub 19lbs gravel bike. and cost less too. |
#41
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I would get the Mason Bokeh if I was looking for a new bike and had money.
Alu frame, carbon fork, max tire size of 700Cx41 or larger if you get 650B, disc brakes, less than 20 lbs. |
#42
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(On good 25mm road tires it's actually the nicest riding "road" bike I've had. Something about that frame really works.)
__________________
明日は明日の風が吹く |
#43
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#44
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This one is 17.4 lbs sans water.
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#45
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Ah I didn't realize they don't (or might not ship) to the US. My friend just got one and he's pretty stoked to ride it on Dirty Reiver.
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