Two wheels, two issues.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Originally Posted by belopsky

So what TM-1 measure should one be shooting for? is this a question that can be answered? I've been doing 22-23 with 2/1.8 spokes

Depends on rim (manufacturer recommended max tension), spoke material, shape, diameter, etc. Probably just right for some rims. The best I could tell for the rims I just built up (Stan's Mk3 Crest) was 95kfg, which would warrant a much lower reading using Sapim Race spokes than 23 on the TM-1. I shot for a reading of 20 on the front wheel.

[belopsky]

Originally Posted by coloneljlloyd

depends on rim (manufacturer recommended max tension), spoke material, shape, diameter, etc. Probably just right for some rims. The best i could tell for the rims i just built up (stan's mk3 crest) was 95kfg, which would warrant a much lower reading using sapim race spokes than 23 on the tm-1. I shot for a reading of 20 on the front wheel.

tb14

[cnighbor1]

Originally Posted by Tony T

Make sure you're not getting spoke-windup. This could be the cause of the wheel going out of true as the spoke unwinds as you ride.

every so often in building a wheel you have to place wheel horizontal with axle on a solid surface than push down on wheel to release tension in spokes and any wind up in it will unwind do at least 6 to 8 points around the rim flip over repeat
Has wheel becomes truer repeat above till wheel stays true

[Mustangski]

Originally Posted by John H.

1.) 340 rim might be damaged. They are pretty soft. Especially built as a 24 hole wheel with Xray spokes.



2.) Did you put any spoke prep or linseed oil on the spoke threads? Maybe they are unwinding?

I used boiled linseed oil on the spokes and motor oil on the rim bed. Either way, at this point I may just start again for the experience of nothing else.


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[Tony T]

If you start over, don't remove the spokes as they are already set into the hub.

[Mustangski]

Originally Posted by Tony T

If you start over, don't remove the spokes as they are already set into the hub.

Thanks, I won't go that far. Probably just loosen in place and start again.

On a side note, people seem to have a lot issues with the Park TM-1. I use calibrated items almost daily in my regular job and am aware of the importance of calibrating tools. However when you look at a cost stand point I felt comfortable enough with the Park to get me close to 120. I searched the site prior to purchasing, read the reviews, and was aware that the measurements may be off. The idea of building a wheel set myself, for my own use, trumped the accuracy I would have achieved with the higher end tensionmeters and the cost associated with that. This first run may not have worked out perfectly, but the experience was worth it and the issue was not due to the tensionmeter as much as with the guy behind it!

Thanks again for everyone's assistance, hopefully I will have time in the next couple of weeks to get these things back up and running. Right now I have the bike back on the road by combining the two good wheels out of each set. It was 73 degrees and sunny today on a tropical island in the South Pacific! Have to get back on the road!

[lil_champ]

I think you are overthinking all of this a bit. I've built about 15-20 wheelsets in my life, and I've used a tensiometer on maybe half of those. If you've got one, great. Use it, and get your spokes up to tension. Worrying about the calibration of your tensiometer sounds like overkill to me, especially when you only weigh 155 lbs.

On your first question, just replace the spoke and dish the wheel. The dish probably pulled to the DS because of the dramatic release of tension when the spoke break and the much higher tension of the DS spokes. The main thing you need to be concerned about is even tension around the wheel, so you can adjust each side to dish it and maintain the proper tension. You only have trouble if the wheel is true but the tension varies greatly among the spokes. That means you have damage to the rim, and those 340 rims are notoriously flimsy.

On your second question, the wheel came out of true because it's radially laced. I've had this same issue too, but I also weigh a bit more than you. Radially laced wheels come unwound easier because they don't have the added friction of other spokes crossing and pulling against them. Did you use any kind of spoke prep? I only use it on radial wheels for this reason. You don't need to pull the wheel apart and start over. Leave the wheel laced, but loosen all of the spokes so the threads are exposed as much as possible. Get a small tube of blue Loc-Tite and put a drop on the threads of each spoke, and then re-tension the wheel. Make sure you get the 'blue' loc-tite. It's the weaker type that can be loosened later if needed.

Keep building wheels!

[Mustangski]

I re-tensioned and trued the A23 front wheel, I went a little higher in tension than I did the first time due to the numerous reports on the inaccuracies associated with the TM-1. I attached the tension readings that came off the TM-1 with the wheel trued. Understanding that I am a noobie wheel builder, should I seek a more even tension even though the wheel is radially and laterally true as well as properly dished?

I could increase the tension more, however I didn't want the reading's over 22 due to the possibility of over tensioning the wheel.
Thanks again for all the assistance.

[CiclistiCliff]

.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Mustangski

I re-tensioned and trued the A23 front wheel, I went a little higher in tension than I did the first time due to the numerous reports on the inaccuracies associated with the TM-1. I attached the tension readings that came off the TM-1 with the wheel trued. Understanding that I am a noobie wheel builder, should I seek a more even tension even though the wheel is radially and laterally true as well as properly dished?

I could increase the tension more, however I didn't want the reading's over 22 due to the possibility of over tensioning the wheel.
Thanks again for all the assistance.

I think that looks great..a tire will lower the tension, you'll be below the manufacturer's max of 120 kgf.

[Mustangski]

Awesome, I appreciate it. Work will be crazy this week so hopefully I will get a chance to put the wheel back on the bike and give it a shot.

Thanks again for everyone's assistance!

[weisan]

well done, mustang pal.

[Mustangski]

Originally Posted by weisan

well done, mustang pal.

Thanks, and thanks for the help. We will see if the wheel holds true this time.


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[classtimesailer]

Just curious, which spoke is the replacement for the broken one? AND how do they sound?

[Mustangski]

Originally Posted by classtimesailer

Just curious, which spoke is the replacement for the broken one? AND how do they sound?

That was the other wheel from my other set, this was a front wheel that I had initially built and just wouldn't hold true. I loosened and re-tensioned the entire wheel, hopefully it holds this time. I haven't gotten to the other wheel yet.