Question on Moots Di2 Build

[Rebel_Biker]

I am building my first di2 frame. It is a 2013 Moots RSL. It has an external battery on the bottom of the down tube.

I am wondering which tube most stuff the wire harness into? Do most prefer to stuff if in the seat tube or down tube. Also, does anyone put zip ties on the wires inside the tubes?

thank you

[LJohnny]

I tend to put them in the seat tube because I find that if I need to take the FD off, or adjust, etc, the etube wire seems more accessible (easier to source from inside). Of course it depends on the length of your cables. [edit] For instance, changing the FD from 10S to 11S requires a bit more cable because of the location of the port...

I do not zip tie them because of the aforementioned reason that if I need to make an adjustment, etc, I do want some length of free, available cable inside the frame. I don't notice any rattle or noise... YMMV.

[aosty]

Re: harness/junction location. It depends on the bike... the seattube is usually the most accessible. On carbon bikes with fat tubes, the top of the downtube is roomy and often works well.

Re: battery location. If the frame has the appropriate wiring holes, it should be trivial to use the internal battery, especially in the seatpost.

I do use zip ties every few inches on the internal cables... not necessarily to bundle but to keep them long so the wires "press against" the inner tube wall to reduce rattle... sometimes I supplement with cut strips of foam.

[LJohnny]

Originally Posted by aosty

l.
Re: battery location. If the frame has the appropriate wiring holes, it should be trivial to use the internal battery, especially in the seatpost.
.

Yeah, the Moots Di2 has two-hole mounting position for the short bracket right in front of the BB on the downtube. Which the OP is very familiar with since he is a dealer.

[Rebel_Biker]

Originally Posted by LJohnny

Yeah, the Moots Di2 has two-hole mounting position for the short bracket right in front of the BB on the downtube. Which the OP is very familiar with since he is a dealer.

Correct
I am running the external battery, because I thought it would look funny to have the bosses empty if I ran an internal seat tube battery.

The external battery bosses made this frame difficult to sell. Most potential buyers wanted to run the seat tube battery and did not like that it had the bosses, even at almost 40% off. So, I have made the difficult decision to build it for myself.

One other question about the BB. I am running a CK PF30, and there is not much room in there with the sleeve. Will all the wires have room with the sleeve? Do some leave the sleeve off the BB?

[11.4]

Just put some titanium or stainless pan-head allen bolts in the holes and people should stop worrying. It's more versatility. But use the seat tube battery. It's just better.

Definitely the seat tube. It also means you can access everything together. I use long zip ties connected together to make a tether that I wedge into the seat post next to the battery so when I take the seat post out, I can fish up all the wires easily.

As for the bottom bracket, there are some PF30 bottom brackets (Praxis in particular is one I had some unhappiness with) where the sleeve is too big to accommodate the wiring on a Moots. Whatever the deal is, Moots frames seem to be more of a problem than others. However, a CK PF30 works fine, but be sure as you assemble it that the wiring doesn't get pinched or jammed anywhere. And I'd use a longer-than-needed wire for the run from the bars down the down tube and up to the junction in the seat tube, just so you have enough to play with as you install the bottom bracket. You should have one wire from the down tube going up to the junction box and one wire going down to the right chain stay for the rear derailleur. Those are the only two wires traveling through there. To be sure nothing was catching a wire, I pushed a small cube of styrofoam up into the seat tube from below to hold the cables clear. It's small enough so water drains around it and it doesn't put pressure on anything -- just keeps cables out of the way. And no, don't remove the sleeve.

[Rebel_Biker]

Originally Posted by 11.4

Just put some titanium or stainless pan-head allen bolts in the holes and people should stop worrying. It's more versatility. But use the seat tube battery. It's just better.

Definitely the seat tube. It also means you can access everything together. I use long zip ties connected together to make a tether that I wedge into the seat post next to the battery so when I take the seat post out, I can fish up all the wires easily.

As for the bottom bracket, there are some PF30 bottom brackets (Praxis in particular is one I had some unhappiness with) where the sleeve is too big to accommodate the wiring on a Moots. Whatever the deal is, Moots frames seem to be more of a problem than others. However, a CK PF30 works fine, but be sure as you assemble it that the wiring doesn't get pinched or jammed anywhere. And I'd use a longer-than-needed wire for the run from the bars down the down tube and up to the junction in the seat tube, just so you have enough to play with as you install the bottom bracket. You should have one wire from the down tube going up to the junction box and one wire going down to the right chain stay for the rear derailleur. Those are the only two wires traveling through there. To be sure nothing was catching a wire, I pushed a small cube of styrofoam up into the seat tube from below to hold the cables clear. It's small enough so water drains around it and it doesn't put pressure on anything -- just keeps cables out of the way. And no, don't remove the sleeve.

thank you

I already purchased the exterior battery, so I will have to run it. Luckily, Moots put the whole in front of the BB for the external battery, so that won't have to go through the BB. They recommended 1200 wire for the DT, but shimano was out so I got the 1400, which should provide plenty of length as you suggested.