|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
seatpost slipping: suggestions?
so here's my situation: aluminum post in a steel frame. and it's slipping.
originally it was just post in frame. after having it slip considerably, i applied grease inside the top of the seat tube. this mitigated the slippage but it still loses a few mm's each ride. any suggestions for further fixes to keep the alu post from slipping? one option, adam hansen uses a second seat collar. thoughts? http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/...lium-sl/297688 another option is to try another post. but it's a 31.6 post and only other one i have is carbon. if i try the carbon, i assume i should clean out the grease from the seat tube and apply carbon paste? any downside to residual grease mixing with carbon paste? to sum up my situation in a word: help! thanks! |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I had the same problem with a cheap steel commuter frame a Pake C'Mute.
I use carbon paste on an aluminum post and now it does not slip without having to result in excessive torque on the binder bolt. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
The very smooth and polished Easton Dura-Ace post used to slip in my Kirk,
and i put some of the Finish Line fiber grip on it, which seems to have solved the problem. http://www.finishlineusa.com/product...ts/fiber-grip- -g |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Finish Line
Quote:
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Doesn't have to be carbon to use carbon paste.
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
#8
|
||||
|
||||
I had this problem and it was the fastening nut that was not staying tight (5nm).
A little loc-tite on the threads solved it. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Make sure the clamp bolt is not bottoming out at the coincidental torque to give you SOME clamping force but not ENOUGH.
I've read that grease on carbon posts does something bad like penetrate the epoxy, making the post slip even more and after that, difficult to remove the grease's effect. Measure your 31.6 post to verify it's not undersized. According to my Sutherland's manual, the seat tube for your particular mating of steel frame to aluminum post, the seat TUBE can be as large as 31.8mm and still work with your post. Ideally, the seat TUBE would be no larger than 31.65mm. You could have the "perfect storm" of an oversized seat tube AND undersized seat post. My only concern with using carbon past is, will it prevent rust in the seat tube and impair seizing of the seat post.
__________________
http://hubbardpark.blogspot.com/ |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
That's what it is designed to do. It's just grease with grit in it.
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
I had this problem.... I finally realized my seatpost clamp had a crack in it. I used my tail light clamp as a brace of sorts to try to get me the last 50 miles, but it finally broke all the way through and I had to low-rider it to a bike shop for a temp clamp. Fortunately, I was a few miles from a shop- 'cause I probably looked like an idiot
But I obviously rode around with it cracked for some time- I hadn't had any problems, then one day I noticed it had slipped and from that point on I never could get it tight. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
With the benefit of hindsight, I'd say try the paste first. If that doesn't work, add the shim (and you'll be surprised by how narrow the shim will be, but using snips on a soda can is easy-peasy-lemon-squeasy). If that doesn't work, do Old Spud's knurling thing. If that doesn't work, get a different bike. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I think 27.4's didn't come in for at least another 10 years, maybe more, but I'm not certain. I do know that any Paramount I have seen and could check from the late 60s to mid 70s had a 27.2 post. |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Another cheap, simple solution is a piece of tape wrapped around the post at the position where it would meet the top of the seat tube. Some type of tape that has a cloth/fabric backing.
|
|
|