Found and Fixed - Titanium Creak and Old Potatoe Question

[cmg]

Originally Posted by parris

This may be way off base but I had a similar problem a while back. I was finally able to track it down to movement between the saddle shell and saddle rails. For all the world the creak sounded like it was coming from the b.b/cranks.

+1, Mine did that, the other one was the cassette wasn't tight enough on the hub.

[fairwent]

I chased a similar creak for quite some time. Checked and lubed everything we could imagine. Finally it turned out to be a crack in a weld. A warranty fix and the creak was gone.

[beeatnik]

Originally Posted by parris

This may be way off base but I had a similar problem a while back. I was finally able to track it down to movement between the saddle shell and saddle rails. For all the world the creak sounded like it was coming from the b.b/cranks.

Had that creak for a few rides. Carbon oversized rails were the culprit.

Then for a few days, I had the CK R45 creak. That went away after replacing a rear weight weenie skewer with a Record QR.

Finally, had a creak that lasted a few weeks. This one drove me crazy. Source: alu seatpost which was greased with carbon paste.

Oh, had a one day creak once that I thought was coming from the headset but was caused by a CO2 cartridge (inside saddle bag) banging against the seatpost.

[SPOKE]

If the bottle bosses are riv-nut variety verses welded bosses then have them tightened up or replaced. Also as a test just put a drop of chain lube on each of the bosses.

How many miles on the crank? If it's a thru axle style (outboard bearing cups or one of the Bb30/PF30 or.....) the crank axle where the id of the bearings sit may have grooves worn in these areas that now have too much clearance. Give this a good look if the crank has a bunch of miles on it.

[Dave Wages]

When I was wrenching years ago I had a similar issue on a Serotta Ti frame and this ended up being the cure, after trying virtually everything else!

Originally Posted by djg21

I had this issue with a Ti Frame and it ended up being the front derailleur clamp (to use a braze on front derailleur with a non-braze on frame). Maybe take it off, clean it, and reinstall it and see what happens. I replaced my Shimano clamp with a K-edge and it solved the issue.

[djg21]

Originally Posted by Dave Wages

When I was wrenching years ago I had a similar issue on a Serotta Ti frame and this ended up being the cure, after trying virtually everything else!

Took me forever to figure it out. It sounded like it was the BB or crank bolts, and was really annoying. Ti frames amplify the smallest rattle.

I really do like the K-edge clamp. http://www.acecosportgroup.com/k-edg...ter-clamp.html. I added a chain catcher, and everything has worked flawlesslyand been noise free.

[PaulE]

If your rear wheel has a DT Swiss or White Industries type of hub design, with sealed bearings and a large diameter steel tube axle, you may need to disassemble it and grease the exterior of that axle tube where it goes through the bearings. If you see wear on the outside of that tube, you may need to replace it. I've experienced this with my Legend and a White Industries hub, and the hub only creaked in Legend, not in my CSI. Before taking apart the rear hub, put in a different wheel and ride the bike to see if the creak is still there.

The other thing I've found on my Legend is that I need to pull my Shimano front derailleur braze on adapter clamp and clean it thoroughly, I put some Phil's grease on the inside surface of the clamp before reinstalling it.

[gary_a_gooner]

I had a click/tick for about 3 weeks. Pissed me the eff off. I tried the following:

-swapped cranks, still there
-swapped pedals, still there
-tighten chainring bolts, still there
-checked all other bolts (fd, cages, seatpost), still there.
-cleaned the cable guide, still there
-installed new BB with teflon, still there

Brought it to the shop and we went thru everything. Still there.

Finally, I cleaned and greased the contact points of my rear skewer and drop out area. GONE. Not a peep since. Dammit...but I'm happy.

[dcama5]

Thanks to everyone that has contributed. Here's the latest in the saga: I was wondering about the cassette and rear wheel so I took the cassette off and I may have found the problem. No lube on the alloy freehub body with cassette cogs digging in so maybe lubing between the cogs and the freehub and between the spacers and cogs. Anyway, I checked Easton cycling website for wheel details. They have a nice section with depiction of the steps in disassembling the rear hub to regrease or change bearings, etc. So I did it, checked the bearings, they were fine and smooth, regreased, then checked Easton's site for reassembly torque specs. They specified 150 inlb on nondrive side end cap onto the aluminum axle and 135 inlb on drive side. So I convert it and it's 16Nm nondrive and 14Nm drive. I set the torque wrench and it strips the threads. So, if I wasn't pissed before, I am now that I have a creaky bike with a stripped axle. I order the new axle and end cap and contact Easton, they just say they recommend 8Nm nondrive and 5Nm drive side but that is less than half of what their website clearly lists. Anyway, it will be a few days before I can get the axle, reassemble and ride to see if my cassette theory is correct. Oh well...

[Mikej]

Bottom bracket threads taped and cups tight? BB faced? Pedal spindles threads taped? Seat collar /frame greased? And don't grease handlebar / stem or stem / fork or skewer / frame interfaces- these area are meant to hold tight, don't risk it

[dcama5]

Originally Posted by Mikej

Bottom bracket threads taped and cups tight? BB faced? Pedal spindles threads taped? Seat collar /frame greased? And don't grease handlebar / stem or stem / fork or skewer / frame interfaces- these area are meant to hold tight, don't risk it

Thanks, I agree. Take a look at the post just above your post. I will post again when I can ride this thing again.

[brando]

I had a creaking like this and it ended up being the rear wheel non-driveside spokes. I now make sure to keep them lubricated where they cross.

[PaulE]

I don't think greasing the freehub splines will help. Putting grease on the outside of that new axle where the bearings sit on it will make a difference. Do you have another rear wheel or can you borrow one from someone else and see if the creak is there with another rear wheel?

[dcama5]

Originally Posted by PaulE

I don't think greasing the freehub splines will help. Putting grease on the outside of that new axle where the bearings sit on it will make a difference. Do you have another rear wheel or can you borrow one from someone else and see if the creak is there with another rear wheel?

That's a good point. I don't have another 10 speed Shimano rear wheel, but I may be able to figure something out. Thanks.

[pbarry]

Originally Posted by dcama5

Thanks to everyone that has contributed. Here's the latest in the saga: I was wondering about the cassette and rear wheel so I took the cassette off and I may have found the problem. No lube on the alloy freehub body with cassette cogs digging in so maybe lubing between the cogs and the freehub and between the spacers and cogs. Anyway, I checked Easton cycling website for wheel details. They have a nice section with depiction of the steps in disassembling the rear hub to regrease or change bearings, etc. So I did it, checked the bearings, they were fine and smooth, regreased, then checked Easton's site for reassembly torque specs. They specified 150 inlb on nondrive side end cap onto the aluminum axle and 135 inlb on drive side. So I convert it and it's 16Nm nondrive and 14Nm drive. I set the torque wrench and it strips the threads. So, if I wasn't pissed before, I am now that I have a creaky bike with a stripped axle. I order the new axle and end cap and contact Easton, they just say they recommend 8Nm nondrive and 5Nm drive side but that is less than half of what their website clearly lists. Anyway, it will be a few days before I can get the axle, reassemble and ride to see if my cassette theory is correct. Oh well...

Arggh! Sorry to hear this.

There is a sense called mechanic's feel. An old truck or Mercedes can take over the recommended pressure/torque. Newer products, not so much. Stop what you are doing when the numbers don't seem right.. Keep on the hound and you'll find the problem.

p.s.: A full description of components is never a bad idea when trying to get to the bottom of a problem. We can help if we know everything that's going on with your rig.