Found and Fixed - Titanium Creak and Old Potatoe Question

[dcama5]

I have a Roark Ti road bike (pictured in the photos from rides section) and it has a seemingly terminal case of Ti creak. I have applied anti-seize paste and teflon tape at the BB, anti-seize paste at the seatpost, derailleur hanger is dead on (I have the tool), all torque specs dead on (I have a click type torque wrench), spoke tension is uniform and good (I have a spoke tensiometer), bearing preload is good, shifting is perfect up and down, rear quick release is an internal-cam Ultegra and is tight, but no matter what I try, the bike sounds like a freight train coming thru, Anyone have any other ideas?

Old Potatoe, you recommended the teflon tape at the BB earlier on another thread. I applied it but maybe didn't use enough. It's wrapped the right direction, but how many times around the BB threads should I go? Any ideas about Ti creak??

[thirdgenbird]

Does it happen only when seated? If so, check saddle and post clamp.

[regularguy412]

Does it still do it when riding 'hands off the bars'? Also check the FRONT QR.

Mike in AR

[thirdgenbird]

Yeah, front end can do it too. Headset cups, stem, bars and skewer

Pedals is another opportunity. If you have a different bike, swap them for a ride.

[weisan]

I dealt with the clicking noise coming off my Merlin for a week or so with no luck, finally refer to Sheldon Brown, and bless him RIP, tracked it down to the rear wheel hub, took it apart, cleaned, re=greased, re-installed -- and it's gone!

http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html

[cmbicycles]

Can you put your keyboard close to the bike so we can hear it?

Is the bike creaking in/out of the saddle, pedaling/coasting, just under power (climbing/sprinting)? What components are you using... wheels, cranks/BB?

Lots of things to check... seat rails, seatpost, crank & chainring bolts, stem, handlebars, headset, wheels, etc... could be a few different things. Do you have a reliable shop nearby?

[John H.]

Could be anything.
1.) Remove, clean and re-install compression plug. Look up Enve instructions for installing a carbon plug. I think they describe this well.
2.) Use carbon paste on bar/stem interface. Shifter/bar interface too. Even if aluminum.
3.) Is rear der. Hanger replaceable? If so, remove, clean regrease and re-install.
4.) Lockring on cassette? Regrease and reinstall- make sure it is tight.

[ericssonboi]

Originally Posted by weisan

I dealt with the clicking noise coming off my Merlin for a week or so with no luck, finally refer to Sheldon Brown, and bless him RIP, tracked it down to the rear wheel hub, took it apart, cleaned, re=greased, re-installed -- and it's gone!

http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html

I second wheel creaks... double check them shoes..

[dcama5]

Thanks to all so far. We are almost certain it's coming from the BB or backwards from there. Noise fest still there when standing but I did put anti-seize paste on the seatpost and checked all the torque specs. I checked the wheel bearings and they seem smooth and I adjusted the preload. Compression plug cleaning and reinstall has been done and all torque specs up front are dead on. Rear derailleur hanger is not replaceable but I checked the alignment twice with the alignment tool and cleaned and regreased it.

Things I will try: carbon paste on interfaces up front bar/stem etc. Check cassette lockring but the chain, the cassette and the BB are brand new. Part of the search for an answer!

No noise coasting and dead quiet when going over tracks etc. Just when pedaling and especially driving the pedals hard like going uphill. Also, the noise fest increases as the ride gets longer. My wife is going to stop riding with me due to the noise pollution!

[dcama5]

Originally Posted by ericssonboi

I second wheel creaks... double check them shoes..

Thanks for the link. I will take a look.

[dcama5]

Originally Posted by weisan

I dealt with the clicking noise coming off my Merlin for a week or so with no luck, finally refer to Sheldon Brown, and bless him RIP, tracked it down to the rear wheel hub, took it apart, cleaned, re=greased, re-installed -- and it's gone!

http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html

Oops, wrong person. Thanks for the link.

[dcama5]

Originally Posted by regularguy412

Does it still do it when riding 'hands off the bars'? Also check the FRONT QR.

Mike in AR

Yes, thanks. front QR is new and tight.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by dcama5

I have a Roark Ti road bike (pictured in the photos from rides section) and it has a seemingly terminal case of Ti creak. I have applied anti-seize paste and teflon tape at the BB, anti-seize paste at the seatpost, derailleur hanger is dead on (I have the tool), all torque specs dead on (I have a click type torque wrench), spoke tension is uniform and good (I have a spoke tensiometer), bearing preload is good, shifting is perfect up and down, rear quick release is an internal-cam Ultegra and is tight, but no matter what I try, the bike sounds like a freight train coming thru, Anyone have any other ideas?

Old Potatoe, you recommended the teflon tape at the BB earlier on another thread. I applied it but maybe didn't use enough. It's wrapped the right direction, but how many times around the BB threads should I go? Any ideas about Ti creak??

2 or 3 wraps...warm some lindseed oil, dump it down the seat tube. About 2-3 ounces. Could be crappy mitering of the seat tube.

[Exonerv]

Mine was the top cap at the stem. After greasing it, it would go away and then return. Once I lowered the stem 5mm, it completely disappeared.

Out of the saddle climbing was when it was worst. The torque placed on the bars caused the steerer to flex just enough against the top cap.

[eddief]

not torqued chainring bolts.