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  #1  
Old 07-30-2013, 02:50 PM
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Seramount Seramount is offline
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used to do the whole silly paraffin ritual...

take the chain off, clean in solvent, wash with hot, soapy water, dry in oven, melt wax, dip in wax, wipe off excess wax...repeat every 100 miles.

bunch of BS, imo.

after years of using Triflow (smells great, doesn't last for crap) and a few name brand lubes that were nothing special, I tried Chain-L.

the stuff is great. have been tracking my lube intervals...best is 785 miles, averaging ~650 miles.

produces the quietest drive-train ever...buttery smooth, too.
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  #2  
Old 01-28-2013, 08:02 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddief View Post
"Ceramic WET™ is Finish Line’s most advanced and most effective racing lubricant. This wet-style full synthetic lubricant is enhanced with a nano-sized platelets of boron nitride and micron particles of fluoropolymer. As Ceramic WET builds it’s ceramic coating on the frictional surfaces of a drivetrain, cyclists will feel the smoothness and appreciate the added quietness. Ceramic WET ensures maximum drivetrain efficiency. This performance level often provides a physiological (reserved energy) and psychological (confidence) advantage for cyclists during climbs and sprints.

Ceramic WET’s extreme durability, amazing smoothness and ultimate quietness will exceed the expectations of most cyclists! This patented technology is sure to change the way mechanics prepare a bike for a race and it may even change the way racers compete during the race."
yikes..
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  #3  
Old 07-31-2013, 10:56 AM
ColonelJLloyd ColonelJLloyd is offline
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Originally Posted by avalonracing View Post
That's what I've been using. I like it.
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  #4  
Old 01-31-2013, 03:04 PM
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drhule33 drhule33 is offline
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Yeah, it (waxing) seems like a lot of trouble to go through for what seems like a pretty small amount of benefit (in terms of wattage). Maybe if your Team Sky and the mechanic does it for you, but a Joe-Schmoe like me... I'll stick with my ProGold ProLink.
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  #5  
Old 01-31-2013, 04:44 PM
Rueda Tropical Rueda Tropical is offline
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http://www.friction-facts.com/ultrafast-overview
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2013, 04:55 PM
LegendRider LegendRider is offline
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If waxing truly results in a chain with the lowest friction losses, will pro teams show up to the Tour with 20 pre-waxed chains for their GC leader? Wash the bike, pop on the new chain and get your leader a few extra watts.
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  #7  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:09 PM
morrisbenedict morrisbenedict is offline
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Originally Posted by Rueda Tropical View Post
Gotta be suspicious of so-called objective scientific studies that cost $4.95 to read them. A bit of peer-review would take these claims down, I suspect.
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  #8  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:16 PM
thirdgenbird thirdgenbird is offline
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I grew up using white lighting but have debated trying chain-L but the idea of dirty chains isn't attractive. Does anyone have a happy medium they would reccomend?
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  #9  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:44 PM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdgenbird View Post
I grew up using white lighting but have debated trying chain-L but the idea of dirty chains isn't attractive. Does anyone have a happy medium they would reccomend?
I sell a bunch of prolink. I could GAS about the 'watts' lost when using it. It means if used correctly, then the __ you will not lose is $, from wasted chains and cogs.
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  #10  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:49 PM
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dancinkozmo dancinkozmo is offline
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i like to use velo news to wipe the excess lube from my chain....
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  #11  
Old 01-31-2013, 08:56 PM
avalonracing avalonracing is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dancinkozmo View Post
i like to use velo news to wipe the excess lube from my chain....
The above quote was worth repeating.

Now that it has been, get the damn Finish Line Wet Ceramic Lube, use it as I recommended and you won't go back!
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  #12  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:52 PM
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BdaGhisallo BdaGhisallo is offline
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I am willing to give the wax thing a try, out of curiosity more than anything.

The real question I have is how it holds up in bad weather. If you have a rainy ride, do you need to re-wax the chain? How many miles does it take for rain to wash out the wax and render the chain sans any lubricant? I am concerned that if I get caught in the rain that I might get home with a chain that is behaving as if it had no lube on it and squeaking like hell.

The idea of an ultra clean drivetrain does sound great though.
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  #13  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:54 PM
thirdgenbird thirdgenbird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
I sell a bunch of prolink. I could GAS about the 'watts' lost when using it. It means if used correctly, then the __ you will not lose is $, from wasted chains and cogs.
Would you reccomend fully cleaning the chain if converting from white lightning to prolink?
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  #14  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:22 PM
rnhood rnhood is offline
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The key to low friction metal surfaces is PTFE. Any lube rich with it will provide excellent lubrication properties....pretty much second to none. The wax in Ultrachain appears to be the carrier for deposition and to help stabilized the PTFE and keep it in place until its embedded in the metal pores. The teflon is the key element.
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