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  #16  
Old 10-23-2015, 09:06 AM
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Tony T Tony T is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdmtong View Post
Now take some 212 B.C. advice from Archimedes (if you never heard of him, look him up) who once said: δῶς μοι πᾶ στῶ καὶ τὰν γᾶν κινάσω (Give me a lever and a place to stand and I will move the earth)
You could also use a "cheater" and insert a pipe into the wrench to extend the lever.
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  #17  
Old 10-23-2015, 09:26 AM
joe.e joe.e is offline
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...I usually just hold the pedal wrench in one hand, the pedal in the other, and push like hell. after enough swearing the pedals always come off (I like to think I have to earn it).
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  #18  
Old 10-23-2015, 01:23 PM
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mvrider mvrider is offline
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My only question is:

Are you rebuilding your Respo??
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  #19  
Old 10-23-2015, 01:35 PM
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My only question is:Are you rebuilding your Respo??
hahaha...only you would recognize that bike. I was actually just regreasing the post and decided to flip it over.
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  #20  
Old 10-23-2015, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonoeightysix View Post
milwaukee m12 impact driver (1/4" hex drive). For removal only, using a quality impact rated hex bit (currently using wera impaktor).
word!
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  #21  
Old 10-23-2015, 01:44 PM
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removing a stuck pedal (another approach)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 54ny77 View Post
it's quite the sight seeing the full depth of a few big chainring teeth sunk all the way into the hand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cinema View Post
Once I didn't do either. that was a big, red, painful mistake.
See that puncture scar on my middle finger?
That's from an idiotic move allowing my finger tip to roll into the non-space between the fully tensioned timing chain and timing ring of my tandem.
As I recall, the tooth embedding itself into my finger tip went like this:

0:00 everything great, cleaning my tandem
0:01 w t f ? ouch!
0:02 eyes see chainring tooth embedded in finger tip. turn crank to release
0:03 look at finger tip. see gaping hole
0:04 now comes the 8" blood spurt, throbbing and anxiety

It ended up not being stitched but was tender for a long time. the throbbing was not pleasant.
I've gotten chain ring digs on the back of my calf from mtb, but this is a whole 'nother level. plenty of great comments in this thread for approaches that work.
whatever you do, avoid getting punctured by your big ring.

Last edited by pdmtong; 10-23-2015 at 06:59 PM.
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  #22  
Old 10-23-2015, 02:00 PM
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BdaGhisallo BdaGhisallo is online now
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I have found that having a fork clamping workstand and using a ratchet as shown in the image allows me to get a lot more oomph into loosening pedals. I can't begin to explain the physics involved as high school was too long ago, but it works. You'll pull the ratchet arm toward the stand extension on each side when loosening pedals with hex recesses on the ends of the axles.

Can't help you if you have pedals that have wrench flats.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Pedal - Hex (2).JPG (112.4 KB, 191 views)
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  #23  
Old 10-26-2015, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony T View Post
You could also use a "cheater" and insert a pipe into the wrench to extend the lever.
A seatpost makes a good cheat bar in a pinch!
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  #24  
Old 10-26-2015, 05:07 PM
CNY rider CNY rider is offline
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Always, always, always throw a shop towel or rag over the chainrings when you are messing with your pedals.
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  #25  
Old 10-26-2015, 05:45 PM
txcid05 txcid05 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNY rider View Post
Always, always, always throw a shop towel or rag over the chainrings when you are messing with your pedals.
Excellent advice there......
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  #26  
Old 10-26-2015, 05:50 PM
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weisan weisan is offline
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I bet this pal can come up with a better idea...especially since he's a direct disciple of Jesus.

I mean, literally speaking, he took this teaching to the next level.

εἰ δὲ ὁ ὀφθαλμός σου ὁ δεξιὸς , σκανδαλίζει σε, ἔξελε αὐτὸν καὶ βάλε ἀπὸ σοῦ (if moreover the eye of you right causes to stumble, you pluck out it and cast [it] from you)

Check it out:
https://www.facebook.com/10000316385...3326317116155/
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  #27  
Old 10-27-2015, 07:02 AM
p nut p nut is offline
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I've cut my hands on my fair share of chainrings as well. Now, I do as described in the original post, except just apply a tap on the Allen wrench with a rubber mallet/deadblow hammer. Just make sure the Allen key is in there tight.


Last edited by p nut; 10-27-2015 at 09:06 AM.
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  #28  
Old 10-27-2015, 07:34 AM
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wallymann wallymann is offline
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a more durable cheater-bar

2' length of black pipe @ Lowes/Home Depot, way better than a flimsy vacuum hose!

i use it for breaking pesky lug-nuts on my car and other assorted recalcitrant fasteners.

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  #29  
Old 09-13-2017, 01:58 PM
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PSA for anyone dealing with stuck pedal . . .
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  #30  
Old 09-13-2017, 06:09 PM
MesiJezi MesiJezi is offline
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I had this issue this summer on an older bike with pedals that refused to budge. Solved it thusly:

1) Propane torch to warm the crank arm (shimano 600). We're not talking red hot, but hot to the touch.

2) Computer dusting air held upside down sprayed directly on/into the hex head at the end of the threaded pedal spindle.

3) Apply force with wrench, pedal breaks loose.

That said... In my mind, heating the crank arm is a last resort.
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