Chain skipping issue

[SamIAm]

I do all the work on my bikes, but this is the first 11 speed, the others are 10. I didn't want to spring for the 11 speed chain tool so I figured surely REI can put the chain on. At any rate they are going to buy me a new pin and let me put my chain on with their tool, so I can live with that.

Problem looks to be solved, but I won't know until I get some miles on it. I replaced the RD housing which seemed to be binding a bit. Shifting much better now.

Originally Posted by zmudshark

So, to be clear, you have a brand new Richard Sachs frame, a used 11s Campy group of unknown level and a chain that was installed by REI and possibly peened incorrectly, and is too long?

If it were me, I would spring for at least the Pedros chain tool, and learn to install chains at home. I would also buy a derailleur alignment gauge and learn to use it.

Those two tools will save you a small fortune in bad/inattentive bike repairs in short time. This stuff is really pretty easy, as long as everything is straight. It's just cables and pulleys.

I am truly amazed at the number of people who let someone else work on their bike.

I'm not talking about facing/chasing, but fairly simple, basic stuff. I have found that a few basic tools will really simplify things. I never assume that anything out of a box is straight, but a DAG pays for itself after two uses. Same with a FFG tool and a FAG tool, not to mention the FFS tool, which I've used to loosen lug nuts on a rusted Oldsmobile and break loose impossible fixed BB cups.

To have a Sachs and Campy 11s and rely on REI, or most other shops that don't speak 'Campagnolo' is a disservice to the bike and yourself.

In any case, wrenching is fun, if you are working on a Sachs with Campagnolo.



Take it from a guy who's worked on a lot of Schwinns

[jruhlen1980]

Originally Posted by carpediemracing

Sanity check - it's an 11s chain?

Lol I did this exact thing tonight. Spent 30 minutes going crazy trying to adjust the RD before realizing I'd installed the spare 10sp instead of the spare 11sp chain.

Clearly the solution is to upgrade all my bikes to 11sp so I don't have to buy different chains.

[ergott]

Forget the special chain tool and join the chain with a KMC missing link. They work so well.

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[peanutgallery]

I'm just surprised the REI guy did't use a bench grinder to install the chain

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by SamIAm

I do all the work on my bikes, but this is the first 11 speed, the others are 10. I didn't want to spring for the 11 speed chain tool so I figured surely REI can put the chain on. At any rate they are going to buy me a new pin and let me put my chain on with their tool, so I can live with that.

Problem looks to be solved, but I won't know until I get some miles on it. I replaced the RD housing which seemed to be binding a bit. Shifting much better now.

Not a great idea to just replace the pin and push it thru 'non virgin' plate. Plates are designed to have aim pushed thru only once. Best idea is to get length right and use a snap-link. Just for info.

[Pierre]

Originally Posted by ergott

Forget the special chain tool and join the chain with a KMC missing link. They work so well.

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x2

[jr59]

Originally Posted by SamIAm

A new Richard Sachs.

Figures

Lol... hope you get it worked out my friend


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[SamIAm]

Thanks for the great feedback, will be going with the snap link approach, but the main problem for those who may unearth this thread in the future was too much friction in RD housing, which was odd because it was right out of the box.

Anyway thanks for the assistance. Will be posting pics of the frame soon, its pretty gorgeous.

[carpediemracing]

Originally Posted by SamIAm

Thanks for the great feedback, will be going with the snap link approach, but the main problem for those who may unearth this thread in the future was too much friction in RD housing, which was odd because it was right out of the box.

Anyway thanks for the assistance. Will be posting pics of the frame soon, its pretty gorgeous.

Sometimes that can be due to a kink in the cable or not "opening" the housing liner or housing after cutting the housing.

I find White Lightning (the wax lube) to be absolutely amazing for cables in lined housing. I get 1.1mm gear cable running through normal (for 1.2mm) liners. It feels like I forget to put the cable in. I lent a friend a spare set of (new) Ergolevers and in the process of installation actually asked him if he forgot to put the cable through. He hadn't.

[kokies]

Did you check to make sure the cassette spacers are in the right order?


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[FriarQuade]

Originally Posted by SamIAm

Thanks for the great feedback, will be going with the snap link approach, but the main problem for those who may unearth this thread in the future was too much friction in RD housing, which was odd because it was right out of the box.

Anyway thanks for the assistance. Will be posting pics of the frame soon, its pretty gorgeous.

Does your frame have a modern plastic bottom bracket cable guide or the steel loops that the cable passes through? Those old school cable guides create a TON of extra friction and they should have died when index shifting became the norm. If that's the setup you've got, correct that first as it's likely the biggest part of the cable friction problem.

[bitpuddle]

Originally Posted by SamIAm

I didn't want to spring for the 11 speed chain tool so I figured surely REI can put the chain on. At any rate they are going to buy me a new pin and let me put my chain on with their tool, so I can live with that.

Something feels deeply wrong about binging a Sachs with Campy to REI.

I hope that adjustment solved the issue.