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#61
08-29-2016, 08:44 AM
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#62
10-02-2016, 07:17 AM
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Built up a 16 pounder plastic bike recently. This was the first bike I had that managed to break the 20-ibs sound barrier. Pretty much all the bikes I have had over the last 30+years or so are at least 20ibs or more. I mean, some of these are not old clunkers, they are modern bikes built with pretty decent components, but none of them chosen for their weight consideration but more of functionality and what I need. So for this experiment with the plastic bike, I decided to pay slightly more attention to weight and see how far I can go without spending an obscene amount of money. 16 3/4 is the best I could do, which I am totally fine with it. Took it out for our Wednesday group ride last week, and noticed a couple of things.
The wind-up on a hill is noticeably quicker. I didn't say I climb better....I just said it seems to accelerate up a hill quicker, understandably so because of gravity and weight. Other than that, honestly, I don't feel any real advantage or benefit. So yesterday, went on my regular Sat group ride, got back on the 22ibs steel Serotta ...did quite a bit of climbing on that ride... again, don't feel like I am bogged down or sluggish because of the additional weight. In fact if anything, I like it better on the hills when I am on my Serotta. Oh well, i don't mean to be contrarian, these are just some preliminary observations and thoughts. I want to do a couple more rides with the plastic bike, maybe even dropped down below 16 with a lighter set of wheels and a carbon handlebar... We will see.
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#63
10-02-2016, 08:10 AM
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__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo
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#64
10-02-2016, 08:21 AM
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Drop 10% of total weight and the time savings on a steep climb are reasonably approximated at 10%. Not trivial. A 30-35 pound bike loaded down with crap is a pig.
On a 200K with 8,000 feet of climbing, the time savings are around 20 minutes for me. The difference might not be felt but it can be measured. I agree that weight differences are normally not as important as good tires, proper bike position, tight clothing, and a properly lubricated chain but why throw any efficiency away. My bike and I tipped the scales at 220# for PBP 2015, which was fine. I could certainly have dropped that total to 190 lbs if I had had support and if I could then have ridden a lighter bike and dropping like 10 pounds off me. On a key climb I lost exactly 45 seconds to the fastest riders (on stripped down racing bikes....I compared power files, talked to one of the lead riders and looked at their STRAVA files). Deducting this 30 pounds of weight with all else equal and I would have been 5 seconds ahead in theory but the efficiency and lower caloric needs are not to be underestimated over the course of a very long ride like a 24 hour race or something like that. Even a mere 20 pounds less could have keep me in touch with the stragglers to bridge. For those racing, a mere few pounds is a big deal. I'm going the opposite direction building up a steel 650B conversion and boy does it feel heavy although only 21-22 lbs where most of my bikes are 17-18 pounds Going out in the rain today, the extra weight won't matter as it rarely does..
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#65
10-02-2016, 08:26 AM
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My race bike is about 15 pounds with training clinchers, and my CX bike with fenders is at best 18 pounds with 28's and more with off road tires. I can definitely feel the difference even on the flats, but I think it's more about fit and position than weight. I just can't make the same power on the CX bike. I can't get as low or as aero. Not a big deal because it's a utility bike.
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#66
10-02-2016, 08:44 AM
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In some ways the light, fast bike is worse. In general, we find an average level, so if the tool gets better the user gets worse. Any time I change a tool in anything I do, I always try to understand what part of the job it's replacing or making easier - I'm weird that way. Watch people in the supermarket and you'll realize that their phone has replaced most of the cognitive functions of their brain... With the bike it's the ability to adapt to bikes that handle differently, or equipment that doesn't work the same. I was on a ride when one guy's Di2 battery died, so he stopped. As someone who rides a fixed gear half the year, I didn't see the problem - he can charge it when he gets home...
__________________
If the pedals are turning it's all good.
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#68
10-02-2016, 04:02 PM
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Funny my Parlee is 16.5# and my Ibis CX is under 18#, but I've been having a blast riding a 31# fendered bike on paved and dirt roads with 44mm tires.
Slower than the Parlee, but not bad compared to the CX. I am slow on the climbs anyway, and notice the weight more there, but my average speed isn't bad compared to the Ibis. SPP
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#69
10-02-2016, 04:39 PM
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This year I made a tactical error on the Big Dam Bridge ride in Arkansas. Last year I rode the steel Argonaut which was a mix of Max and Spirit. It was stiff but not overly so. Over the winter I lost it when the shop where it was being painted burned down. I still had several road bikes including a Big Leg Emma, steel GT, and an MX Leader. I had the Argonaut parts in a box and I bought a Ti Fierte off this forum. I wanted to use it as a travel bike so I didn't beat up the paint on the Peg.
Last year on the Argonaut, I motored much of the course including the rolling hill section. This year I took the Serotta, it's almost 2# lighter than the Pegoretti. I did not motor the rollers this year, I felt like I had dead legs and looking back, I think it came down to the stiffness of the frame. I would have likely done better on the Pegoretti or the MXL given my riding style.
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#70
10-02-2016, 04:42 PM
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Jeff
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#71
10-02-2016, 05:45 PM
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Linear Mode
