Stuck Seatpost - Page 5

adamhell · #61 07-20-2016, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joxster

Block the top of the seatpost with something, take out BB and then pour coke down and let it work its magic.

will coke only eat aluminum and not steel?

Joxster · #62 07-20-2016, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamhell

will coke only eat aluminum and not steel?

It only needs to "break the seal" and then you can wrestle the remaining post out

Satellite · #63 07-20-2016, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamhell

will coke only eat aluminum and not steel?

Coke comes in an aluminum can so I assume it won't eat the container that it comes in.

Well did you get the post out???

adamhell · #64 07-20-2016, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Satellite

Coke comes in an aluminum can so I assume it won't eat the container that it comes in.

Well did you get the post out???

I haven't gotten it out yet because i've been short on time. I will post a picture when I get it out. I might go buy a drill later to help speed up this process.

cp43 · #65 07-20-2016, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Satellite

Coke comes in an aluminum can so I assume it won't eat the container that it comes in.

Well did you get the post out???

I think Coke eats the corrosion. I've seen it done on corrosion on car battery terminals. Never tried it myself, and I hadn't heard of it for this use before. YMMV.

adamhell · #66 07-20-2016, 12:18 PM

coke is also used to get blood out of the freeway after a bad accident. CHP sometimes carry it in their trunks.

i should note that the main struggle in this vertical cut with a hacksaw blade method had been getting an even cut. i have hit steel at the top of the seattube but since there is a lot of flex in the blade my cut towards the bottom of the seatpost is less precise. it is hard/annoying to saw down further.

Stephen2014 · #67 07-20-2016, 01:37 PM

I would switch to a square file, it's physically easy and easy to create a level cut. The biggest asset you need is patience.

adamhell · #68 07-20-2016, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen2014

I would switch to a square file, it's physically easy and easy to create a level cut. The biggest asset you need is patience.

good recommendation! i'm gonna cruise on over to the h-ware store later today. i've got barrels of patience.

Stephen2014 · #69 07-20-2016, 02:51 PM

...or a triangular one if they got no square ones in stock as you still got 3 cutting corners. I just happened to have a square one among my tools.

bikinchris · #70 07-20-2016, 07:56 PM

The reason I say to use Lye is my own story. I had to get TWO frozen seatposts out that broke when I clamped them in a vice and turned the frame:

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=145859

F150 · #71 07-20-2016, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cp43

I think Coke eats the corrosion. I've seen it done on corrosion on car battery terminals. Never tried it myself, and I hadn't heard of it for this use before. YMMV.

Perhaps I wasn't patient enough, but Coke didn't work, ammonia didn't work, PB Blaster, Kroil, 3n1 mixed with K-1 didn't work. Nor did force, via impact or torque. Tired of the hacksaw routine, so went to caustic lye. Job done. Not without it's challenges, but it worked.

The gases evolved in dissolution of aluminum (hydrogen) are flammable, explosive only if confined. Do it outdoors, wear proper PPE and DO NOT mix the caustic lye and water by shaking in a sealed container. Swirl in open cup. Exothermic reaction, sealed container go boom and you will be sporting some new chemical burns. Guys in a plating shop don't worry about hex chrome (carcinogen) but give sodium hydroxide serious respect.

Don't mess around with NaOH. Your eyes won't grow back.

fignon's barber · #72 07-21-2016, 12:58 PM

After reading this thread, I think I'm going to go into the garage and re-lube all the non-carbon posts.

batman1425 · #73 07-21-2016, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F150

The gases evolved in dissolution of aluminum (hydrogen) are flammable, explosive only if confined. Do it outdoors, wear proper PPE and DO NOT mix the caustic lye and water by shaking in a sealed container. Swirl in open cup. Exothermic reaction, sealed container go boom and you will be sporting some new chemical burns. Guys in a plating shop don't worry about hex chrome (carcinogen) but give sodium hydroxide serious respect.

Don't mess around with NaOH. Your eyes won't grow back.

Good advice and stuff all should heed. I work with all kinds of dangerous things at work and I can't stress enough the importance of good PPE and engineering controls (working outside on a relatively calm day in this instance). Good technique and PPE has literally saved my skin more than a few times. Safety glasses/goggles, chem resistant gloves (gloves are NOT created equal - read the labels and get a material appropriate for your application), long sleeve clothing, closed toe shoes, and no distractions while you are working.

malcolm · #74 07-21-2016, 01:28 PM

Not sure if it'll work but you might want to try PB blaster.

I'm restoring an old land cruiser and it's worked like nothing else on frozen rusted nuts/bolts. Way better than the liquid wrench like stuff. I replaced the entire suspension and didn't have to heat or cut anything.

It's available at auto parts stores

p nut · #75 07-21-2016, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by malcolm

Not sure if it'll work but you might want to try PB blaster.

I'm restoring an old land cruiser and it's worked like nothing else on frozen rusted nuts/bolts. Way better than the liquid wrench like stuff. I replaced the entire suspension and didn't have to heat or cut anything.

It's available at auto parts stores

My attention's been diverted. I'd love to restore a 60 some day.