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#34
07-18-2016, 08:52 PM
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Best of luck to ya.
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"Luminous beings are we, not this crude matter"-M.Yoda 
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#35
07-18-2016, 10:35 PM
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I know you went the cut method and now the seat post is flush with the seattube. You could of put a Nickel in between the seatpost binders run the bolt reversed and it would of opened the seat binder. Then added the penetrating fluid and tried twisting the seat post or as others have stated drive the post further into the frame until it released.
You might still try to split the seatpost binder open when you get the post cut it might make it easier to get the peices out. I don't think I would of cut the top of the post flush. I would of left something to get ahold of. I broke a sprinkler manifold yesterday and my house is so old nothing is standard anymore so I had to cobble all sorts of thing together to make it work again. Thats what I get for using tools to do something that was meant to be tightened by hand. I bet the neighborhood heard me cussing.  Good luck! Last edited by Satellite; 07-18-2016 at 11:09 PM.
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#38
07-18-2016, 11:59 PM
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Try heat!
I've had one seatpost stuck that didn't come out with penetrating oil. I shot it with a heat gun, very lightly and with constant motion, and the post slid right out.
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#40
07-19-2016, 01:46 AM
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You have what's called galvanic corrosion. Basically when 2 different types of metals touch each other they oxidize at an accelerated rate. So the steel will rust, and the aluminum will turn into that white powdery stuff.
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#41
07-19-2016, 01:54 AM
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Also, it's too late to do this now, but back when I used to work at an auto shop, if we had a stuck bolt or screw that was being a pain, we would try and actually tighten it to break it free, and then it would come loose. This method was mainly used on carburetor float bowl screws that were usually brass and were threaded into a cast aluminum housing. With the presence of gasoline, there was sometime some nasty corrosion and it was common to strip the heads of those screws if you weren't careful. If we had one that was really stuck we'd take a T handle driver and push down real hard while turning it right and left to try it break it free, it worked 99% of the time.
Anyways, the reason I mention this is because you are so focused on pulling the post out that you probably didn't think about just putting a piece of wood on top of it and giving it a couple whacks with a 3lb sledge hammer to see if you could break it free.
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#42
07-19-2016, 06:14 AM
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__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo
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#44
07-19-2016, 09:08 AM
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Frank The Welder built an awesome seat post removal contraption. It will either remove the seatpost or rip the seat tube from the BB shell.
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#45
07-19-2016, 09:13 AM
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This whole thread, I've been thinking it really wouldn't be an engineering marvel to design a threaded puller that could slide down and catch the bottom edge of the pin and compress it out. But it would be expensive, and few shops/mechanics would buy it. Maybe I could sell the patent to Park.
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where are we going, and why am i in this handbasket?
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