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  #16  
Old 07-18-2016, 06:04 PM
adamhell adamhell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsinill View Post
If the part that is sticking out is useless (which it seems it is since the vise method didn't work), did you try to use a mallet to drive it in further?
I am sure if you get it to move just a little, it would free it enough to then twist it out in the vise.

Man, and I thought my seized BB is trouble!

God Luck!
this is a good point. maybe i will try this.
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  #17  
Old 07-18-2016, 06:15 PM
adamhell adamhell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p nut View Post
I've never had any success with any of the methods you outlined. The last bike with a stuck post, I just ended up giving it away. Now, I have HEARD that better, but more time consuming method is to:

a) cut the seat post just above the seat tube.

b) use a hacksaw to carefully cut away vertically at the seat post from the inside, making sure not to cut the seat tube itself.

c) cut it into 4 to 8 pieces and peel it away from the seat tube.

Never tried it, but sounds like it would work. Just need lots of patience.
okay so i am trying this. i just cut the seatpost above the seat tube, and now i am using the hacksaw to cut vertically inside the seatpost. it seems like it will take a while to make multiple cuts like this, but with enough time and elbow grease, how could it NOT work?
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  #18  
Old 07-18-2016, 06:19 PM
sjpitts sjpitts is offline
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Are we talking about an aluminum seat post in a steel frame? The problem with applying heat in that situation is that the aluminum expands faster than steel-- which would seem to make the problem worse, not better.

The one time I had this problem I spent a few days soaking it with penetrating oil, trying to get the oil to flow down between the seat post and the frame.

Then I wrapped the exposed portion of the seat post in dry ice. Basically, I crushed the dry ice, put it in a ziplock bag and wrapped it to the seat post. After 10 minutes or so the seat post was nice and cold and I was able to break it loose with big ass wrench.

YMMV

Again, I think this method works best with aluminum seat posts and steel frames, given their relative coefficients of thermal expansion.

Jared
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  #19  
Old 07-18-2016, 06:21 PM
CMiller CMiller is offline
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Been there twice. I did an ammonia soak a few nights, and then threw ice water on it and hit it with a can of c02 trying to cool it down. Then a Big Ol' Pipe Wrench

Never had the heart to hacksaw it, you'll need a few beers.

But seriously, the first crack of the seatpost coming loose on a 40 year old Raleigh Grand Prix... pure bliss haha

Last edited by CMiller; 07-18-2016 at 06:26 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-18-2016, 06:25 PM
adamhell adamhell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjpitts View Post
Are we talking about an aluminum seat post in a steel frame? The problem with applying heat in that situation is that the aluminum expands faster than steel-- which would seem to make the problem worse, not better.

The one time I had this problem I spent a few days soaking it with penetrating oil, trying to get the oil to flow down between the seat post and the frame.

Then I wrapped the exposed portion of the seat post in dry ice. Basically, I crushed the dry ice, put it in a ziplock bag and wrapped it to the seat post. After 10 minutes or so the seat post was nice and cold and I was able to break it loose with big ass wrench.

YMMV

Again, I think this method works best with aluminum seat posts and steel frames, given their relative coefficients of thermal expansion.

Jared
yep, alu post in steel frame. luckily the aluminum is getting cut really nicely. there is no longer any exposed seatpost to try your method, but maybe some variation of it will be possible and/or necessary. i'll keep yall updated.
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  #21  
Old 07-18-2016, 06:43 PM
YoKev YoKev is offline
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Great! You'll need to do at least two slits, maybe three. Sometimes it feels like you'll never get it done, but just stay patient. It should be pretty easy to tell when cut through the AL...drag the blade inside the BB shell from time to time to remind yourself what steel feels like.

Have fun my friend!😃
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  #22  
Old 07-18-2016, 06:45 PM
Birddog Birddog is offline
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I had a stuck seatpost and to speed up the process of the penetrating lubel I fastened an electric pad sander to the post so that the vibrations would help the liquid do it's thing. You could also use one of those vibrating multi tools. I was able to get the post out in about 45 mins. I had been working on it off and on for about three days before I came up with the vibrating idea.
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  #23  
Old 07-18-2016, 06:48 PM
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Gsinill Gsinill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamhell View Post
okay so i am trying this. i just cut the seatpost above the seat tube, and now i am using the hacksaw to cut vertically inside the seatpost. it seems like it will take a while to make multiple cuts like this, but with enough time and elbow grease, how could it NOT work?
Let us know how this goes...
Like you mentioned earlier, I can't really imagine how you put enough pressure at the bottom of the post to actually cut through it while keeping the blade in position.
Especially having to do this a few times.
Fingers crossed!
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  #24  
Old 07-18-2016, 07:11 PM
p nut p nut is offline
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I think a hacksaw blade would be rigid enough to get enough leverage. I've seen products like this that might help as well:

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  #25  
Old 07-18-2016, 07:20 PM
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cadence90 cadence90 is offline
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Last edited by cadence90; 07-27-2018 at 06:00 PM.
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  #26  
Old 07-18-2016, 07:20 PM
adamhell adamhell is offline
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here are some photos. at this rate i might have it out in 2 hours. it's hard to tell because i think there is like 9" of post in there
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  #27  
Old 07-18-2016, 07:29 PM
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cadence90 cadence90 is offline
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Last edited by cadence90; 07-27-2018 at 06:00 PM.
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  #28  
Old 07-18-2016, 07:39 PM
F150 F150 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishbolish View Post
i removed a thompson seatpost that had been cut flush on a steel 616 fab fatbike, ifound on youtube the removal using lye( potassium hydroxide)

sealed the bottom bracket with a wedge and a wood half moon plug (used an old piece of inner tube inner tube as the seal) , used allens to plug water bottle holes.. i made a periscope off the top of the seatcollar out of rubber plumbing fixtures & pvc

its a MESSY,NASTY job ....a paint respirator is needed as the caustic fumes can be dangerous ......goggles and rubber gloves are needed as well

took a long morning of applications..but it worked( rise tubes well with water
when done)


the question is,is the frame worth all this ?
Sodium hydroxide. Easier done by inverting frame and dosing via the open bottom bracket.

Buying hacksaw blade (and blister ointment) mfg stocks now.
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  #29  
Old 07-18-2016, 07:41 PM
F150 F150 is offline
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Be patient, and persistent. You'll get there with the hacksaw. If you had more to grab at the crack opposite your cut you might be able to peel it in toward itself with a pair of Vice Grips.
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  #30  
Old 07-18-2016, 07:41 PM
dustyrider dustyrider is offline
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Tape yourself a handle on that blade.
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