#16
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#17
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#18
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Are we talking about an aluminum seat post in a steel frame? The problem with applying heat in that situation is that the aluminum expands faster than steel-- which would seem to make the problem worse, not better.
The one time I had this problem I spent a few days soaking it with penetrating oil, trying to get the oil to flow down between the seat post and the frame. Then I wrapped the exposed portion of the seat post in dry ice. Basically, I crushed the dry ice, put it in a ziplock bag and wrapped it to the seat post. After 10 minutes or so the seat post was nice and cold and I was able to break it loose with big ass wrench. YMMV Again, I think this method works best with aluminum seat posts and steel frames, given their relative coefficients of thermal expansion. Jared |
#19
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Been there twice. I did an ammonia soak a few nights, and then threw ice water on it and hit it with a can of c02 trying to cool it down. Then a Big Ol' Pipe Wrench
Never had the heart to hacksaw it, you'll need a few beers. But seriously, the first crack of the seatpost coming loose on a 40 year old Raleigh Grand Prix... pure bliss haha Last edited by CMiller; 07-18-2016 at 06:26 PM. |
#20
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#21
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Great! You'll need to do at least two slits, maybe three. Sometimes it feels like you'll never get it done, but just stay patient. It should be pretty easy to tell when cut through the AL...drag the blade inside the BB shell from time to time to remind yourself what steel feels like.
Have fun my friend!😃 |
#22
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I had a stuck seatpost and to speed up the process of the penetrating lubel I fastened an electric pad sander to the post so that the vibrations would help the liquid do it's thing. You could also use one of those vibrating multi tools. I was able to get the post out in about 45 mins. I had been working on it off and on for about three days before I came up with the vibrating idea.
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#23
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Like you mentioned earlier, I can't really imagine how you put enough pressure at the bottom of the post to actually cut through it while keeping the blade in position. Especially having to do this a few times. Fingers crossed! |
#24
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I think a hacksaw blade would be rigid enough to get enough leverage. I've seen products like this that might help as well:
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#25
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.... ..
. Last edited by cadence90; 07-27-2018 at 06:00 PM. |
#26
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here are some photos. at this rate i might have it out in 2 hours. it's hard to tell because i think there is like 9" of post in there |
#27
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.... ..
. Last edited by cadence90; 07-27-2018 at 06:00 PM. |
#28
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Buying hacksaw blade (and blister ointment) mfg stocks now. |
#29
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Be patient, and persistent. You'll get there with the hacksaw. If you had more to grab at the crack opposite your cut you might be able to peel it in toward itself with a pair of Vice Grips.
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#30
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Tape yourself a handle on that blade.
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