Calling the style police, help me sort this Waterford 1200

[mt2u77]

I picked up this Waterford last weekend for a song and a dance. After riding it, I'm kinda hooked and want to turn it into my Sunday driver. It's got some nice things going for it (lovely old Campy, Brooks, Phil Wood hubs), and is in great condition, but it's got some oddities too.



Oddity list:
- Bontrager anatomic bars and fugly stem. Ick.
- Prev. owner binned the original Campy downtube shifters in favor of Suntour Accushift Plus bar ends with 7 spd Shimano freewheel on an otherwise all Campy bike.
- Matching 48H Phil Wood hubs, but laced to 700c front, 27" rear. Who does that? I've always wanted Phil hubs, but 48H is overkill for me on a road bike. The rear is also spaced at 126mm and clamped down in a 130mm Reynolds 753 frame. Is that OK? Use as is, rebuild, or sell off?
- Athena single pivot brakes are like an old girlfriend-- pretty, but marginally functional, and a bear to keep centered.
- Stronglight headset is nice, but kinda ugly.


So what stays and what goes? I'm definitely changing the stem, bars, and tires to more classic road bike choices, but not sure about the rest. Opinions? Update with ergo shifters and modern wheelset? Or find a replacement for the original downtube shifters?

[MesiJezi]

Originally Posted by mt2u77

- Matching 48H Phil Wood hubs, but laced to 700c front, 27" rear. Who does that? I've always wanted Phil hubs, but 48H is overkill for me on a road bike. The rear is also spaced at 126mm and clamped down in a 130mm Reynolds 753 frame. Is that OK? Use as is, rebuild, or sell off?

Disturbing... sell! I don't think you'll have any issues with the frame because of the 126mm spacing though.

[KonaSS]

I think you have correctly identified all the pain points. I would go with a more modern wheelset and ergo shifters.

Wheels make such a difference. Get something nice.

[David Tollefson]

That stem really jumped out at me. It IS fugly. Bin it.

As for the rest, upgrade to a modern-ish drivetrain, but with a 5-arm spider. Nice shallow-rim wheels.

Is that an American Classic seat post?

[mt2u77]

Originally Posted by David Tollefson

That stem really jumped out at me. It IS fugly. Bin it.

As for the rest, upgrade to a modern-ish drivetrain, but with a 5-arm spider. Nice shallow-rim wheels.

Is that an American Classic seat post?

Yes. It's an American Classic 27.4mm post, and I can't get rid of that stem fast enough-- just trying to source the right length/drop Cinelli or Nitto stem.

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by mt2u77

Yes. It's an American Classic 27.4mm post, and I can't get rid of that stem fast enough-- just trying to source the right length/drop Cinelli or Nitto stem.

Have you tried a 27.2 in there?

[mt2u77]

Originally Posted by Clean39T

Have you tried a 27.2 in there?

I haven't. Do you use a shim? I thought I read somewhere that they can develop a crack around the seatpost binder using a 27.2.

[FlashUNC]

Ditch the stem and the bars.

Find wheels that match.

The post is butt, but 27.4 limits those options unless you Coke can shim that bad boy.

[cderalow]

anyone else think the front fork doesn't look right?

not sure if it's the angle or what but looks like it bends slightly backward before sweeping forward.

[dgauthier]

Originally Posted by cderalow

anyone else think the front fork doesn't look right?

not sure if it's the angle or what but looks like it bends slightly backward before sweeping forward.

I thought so too, but that appears to be an optical effect caused by the spokes. (Remember the old optical illusion where diagonal lines make perfectly straight parallel lines appear to bow outward or inward? http://geometryhelper.weebly.com/opt...llusion-2.html) I don't have Photoshop to draw a line along the head tube and fork, but if you look at an angle and sight down the head tube the fork looks dead on.

[mt2u77]

Originally Posted by cderalow

anyone else think the front fork doesn't look right?

not sure if it's the angle or what but looks like it bends slightly backward before sweeping forward.

I noticed that when I posted the picture, but it's got to be the camera angle. I took it from inside our "bike closet" at work, so I'm really close to the bike and nothing is quite square. It doesn't look like that in real life. It's also a really tall bike-- the SN# starts with 66 so I assume Waterford calls it a 66cm, but I measure 64cm c-c x 61.5 top tube.

[veggieburger]

I think you need a set of wheels with a few more spokes.

[jmoore]

Originally Posted by mt2u77

I noticed that when I posted the picture, but it's got to be the camera angle. I took it from inside our "bike closet" at work, so I'm really close to the bike and nothing is quite square. It doesn't look like that in real life. It's also a really tall bike-- the SN# starts with 66 so I assume Waterford calls it a 66cm, but I measure 64cm c-c x 61.5 top tube.

It will fit me just fine!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Ken C]

If it were me I would:

1. Go with 10 speed alloy Campy with Ergos, sell the Campy that came with the bike.
2. Ditch wheels for 32 spoke box section tubular rims with Campy hubs.
3. Replace stem for something silver and more elegant, nitto pearl, cinelli, etc.
4. Replace handle bars and bar tape (should be black)
5. Keep seatpost for now while you search for used Campy or Dura Ace seatpost in 27.4.

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by mt2u77

I haven't. Do you use a shim? I thought I read somewhere that they can develop a crack around the seatpost binder using a 27.2.

If it's actually a 27.4, then stay with that, but if they crammed a 27.4 in instead of 27.2, then maybe you're in business...plus some 27.2s are a bit bigger than others and some smaller...