Tubular Mounting (another amazing thread)

[redir]

I use the same method as potatoe, you will never roll a tire if you follow those steps.

ONe thing to add is get some blue painters tape or something like that and tape off the rim on the opposite side of the valve, the last part of the rim that you will mount the tire on just in case you make a mess. Then you can peal the tape off and it's nice and clean.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by quattro

I mounted a set of Vittoria Corsa Elite 25mm tubulars to a pair of Novatec Sprint aluminum wheels. The stems on both wheels are not totally seated and stick up a bit. I had stretched the tires of over a month on the wheels, they didn't go on easily, but they did go on and are pretty centered. Should I remove them? Or can I ride on them as they are? Is there a way to get them to mount flush?

Thanks for your suggestions,
quattro

Lotsa glue around stem...once mounted PUSH hard at that spot where valve is or put a weight on the wheel, like I'm doing right now with a 'noisy' corsa elite.

[Lionel]

Originally Posted by nmrt

Guys,
I am thinking about making the jump to tubulars (on a carbon rim). After years of being non-commital, I think I am now pretty certain that I will buy a pair of carbon tubulars and mount the tires myself.

I have watched tons of videos on youtube and I come away confused on many aspects. Namely:
1) pre-stretching: should I pre-stretch the tires?
2) how long to pre-stretch the tires?
3) how many glue coats on the rim?
4) do I need to glue coat the tires as well?

The source of my confusion comes from different videos recommending different things on the above procedures. If any of you have a proved method, please let me know. Or if you have a link to a video or a write-up that has worked for you, I would be grateful.
Thanks!

Don't over think it, it's not rocket science.

[ultraman6970]

1st time I see somebody actually putting weight over the stem to flat that area out, what Ive seen is tubular rims that had been sanded or filed in the valve area so the valve sits a few mm lower. Personally never did what potato is showing in the picture ever.

[jumphigher]

Reading this thread has made me realize that sew-ups are still as much of a hassle as I remember when I rode them in the late 70's. So glad clinchers have come as far as they have now.

[bikinchris]

I've used the Old Patate method since the 70's and never had a tire roll.

Also, I loved riding tubulars. But I just don't want to spend that much money on tires anymore. And I really don't ever want to cut open or sew together tires and patch tubulars again.

[davidb]

Do it all the time for customers and my own wheels.
1)No prestretch, just have to be strong. Move with a purpose. Not to say it easy.
2)See above.
3) 4) Two coats on rim with at least 2 hours in between, two coats on tire same amount of time. One last coat on rim to allow tire to slide on.

Things that help, inflate to the max once mounted. Ride them around with little braking and cornering. Then you know right away if things are lumpy or twisted. The tire can still be deflated and moved on the rim.

They must sit at least 24 hours before anyone rides them. No exceptions here.

I will be they first to say they are going to be really hard to get off.

[djdj]

Quattro:

Were the valves seated well before you glued them? If no, then you may need to trim the base tape slightly around the valve. I've never had to do that but heard of others who have.

If the valves were seated well when stretching, then the problem is the mounting method ("that's what she said"). It may have popped up while mounting.

IMO, the tire should be slightly inflated before mounting -- enough to give it shape without rolling over. Maybe 20 psi. Push down on the tire at the valve with one hand while stretching and mounting the tire with the other, several inches to each side of the valve. If the valve is threaded, you can also add a nut and screw it tightly while mounting the rest of the tire.

If the tire doesn't hop and isn't noisy, then ignore what I just said and ride it. Good luck.

[fogrider]

Originally Posted by Lionel

Don't over think it, it's not rocket science.

+1. there is no try, only do.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by jumphigher

Reading this thread has made me realize that sew-ups are still as much of a hassle as I remember when I rode them in the late 70's. So glad clinchers have come as far as they have now.

YMMV, I guess..I see no compelling reason to own any clinchers and not trying to ignite a clinchers vs tubie thread..not really a hassle, certainly not on the order of some tubeless with 'goop'...IMHO, of course.

[quattro]

Originally Posted by djdj

Quattro:

Were the valves seated well before you glued them? If no, then you may need to trim the base tape slightly around the valve. I've never had to do that but heard of others who have.

If the valves were seated well when stretching, then the problem is the mounting method ("that's what she said"). It may have popped up while mounting.

IMO, the tire should be slightly inflated before mounting -- enough to give it shape without rolling over. Maybe 20 psi. Push down on the tire at the valve with one hand while stretching and mounting the tire with the other, several inches to each side of the valve. If the valve is threaded, you can also add a nut and screw it tightly while mounting the rest of the tire.

If the tire doesn't hop and isn't noisy, then ignore what I just said and ride it. Good luck.

The valves seemed to be seated well before install. Per oldpotatoe, I have added more glue around the valve stem and put plastic ties around the tire on both sides of the stem and tightened, I'll see how they look when I remove them this afternoon, if ok, I'll give them a test ride. Otherwise the tires are glued ok everywhere else.
Thanks,
quattro

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by quattro

The valves seemed to be seated well before install. Per oldpotatoe, I have added more glue around the valve stem and put plastic ties around the tire on both sides of the stem and tightened, I'll see how they look when I remove them this afternoon, if ok, I'll give them a test ride. Otherwise the tires are glued ok everywhere else.
Thanks,
quattro

Gotta mention, mine made some noise as the wheel rotated while riding. If they didn't, I wouldn't have added more glue. How it 'looks' doesn't really bother me.

[El Chaba]

WRT getting the valve area properly glued.....Some tires are worse than others and it depends upon the individual making the tire as they are assembled by hand. To keep the tire from having a bump at the valve-because the valve basically creates an area of two missed stitches, the stitches on either side of the valve must be extra tight. This sometimes makes a pucker on the bottom of the tire next to the valve. The best way to take care of this issue is to put in something to take up the space. If there is one good use for tubular tape, this is it. Get a roll or two of the stuff to have on hand and cut off a couple of short sections a couple of centimeters long and attach them to the rim on either side of the valve stem. Proceed with your normal gluing procedure. You can glue right over top of the rim tape sections. Problem solved.

[quattro]

Originally Posted by quattro

The valves seemed to be seated well before install. Per oldpotatoe, I have added more glue around the valve stem and put plastic ties around the tire on both sides of the stem and tightened, I'll see how they look when I remove them this afternoon, if ok, I'll give them a test ride. Otherwise the tires are glued ok everywhere else.
Thanks,
quattro

Well, I removed the zip ties late this morning and the stems are pretty well seated now. Hopefully I'll get to take them out for a ride this afternoon.

Thanks for the replies and recommendations.

quattro

[false_Aest]

Welcome.

Now lower your tire pressure by 10psi.