I prefer cantilever brakes for gravel (and CX) bikes

[VoyTirando]

[QUOTE=Clean39T;2142843]I count myself lucky for having grown up in MTB when the bikes were light, rigid, thumbed, and canted.

A properly set up canti brake is a thing of beauty, but took too long for the big-brand shops...so out went the hangers in favor of those stupid fixed-length things which people still fckd up and so another "innovation" was needed...another answer to a problem that didn't exist.

For my money, 1992-93 was the high water mark for mountain bikes; it's been a downward slide ever since. I'll be building a period-correct Fat Chance shortly to test that theory

The unfortunate thing is now the trails are being built to match the bikes, so finding fireroads and flowy-singletrack gets harder all the time. Extreme!!



This. I guess my experience with MTB was jeep and fire roads in Colorado, or flowy singletrack in the same and in the Northeast. I did plenty of riding in Southern Utah on cantis, too, and never wanted more brake. And recently on my gravel bike, I took the Bridgestone to Acadia last summer and rode not just the carriage roads but rooted, tough singletrack on it up around Donnell Pond, and the cantis were great. I don't MTB anymore, so maybe the trails have changed.

As someone who isn't intimidated by my bike's guts - except for wheels, I'll leave those to the pros - I find cantis no problem to set up and keep set up right. One thing I like about cantis is that I can see everything: all the parts in plain sight, and at a height that's easy to field-service if necessary. And as to it being true that if you want to switch wheels you need to adjust the cable, that's so easy: loosen the hangar bolt and let some cable out (or vice versus), tighten up.

[teleguy57]

following this with interest. Campy rim brakes on my road bike, Tektro 720 calipers on my fender bike. Thinking about what I would want to have for braking for a next bike for larger tires. Was thinking disc, but this thread has me reconsidering Paul Racer/Racer M or even a high-quality canti.

Anyone have a good reference to optimizing canti setup? Or perhaps someone would start a new thread on that? Seems that those who like them have figured out how to make them work best. My 720s are a lower-end brake that I bet would benefit from being set up better....

Thanks!

[FlashUNC]

Because fork shudder is awesome?

[CAAD]

I just built up a CX bike with TRP CX8.4 V brakes and love them. Gobs of power and modulation. I can fit a knobby 38c in them fine. I think a slick 40 would fit though. Most rides don't require anything bigger then a 38 here in Florida. If i need anything that big ill bring the mountain bike.

[jtbadge]

I too prefer rim brakes for gravel/cross/enduro all road. But I don't ride through very much mud, besides in cross racing, which I hate. Having a bike built around a tapered ENVE fork and purple Paul MiniMotos.

Originally Posted by CAAD

I just built up a CX bike with TRP CX8.4 V brakes and love them. Gobs of power and modulation. I can fit a knobby 38c in them fine. I think a slick 40 would fit though. Most rides don't require anything bigger then a 38 here in Florida. If i need anything that big ill bring the mountain bike.

In my experience, you can definitely fit a knobby 40c WTB Nano under that brake. With mud.

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by FlashUNC

Because fork shudder is awesome?

Fork shudder is much more likely on disc-brakes than cantilevers due to the brake placement..

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by teleguy57

following this with interest. Campy rim brakes on my road bike, Tektro 720 calipers on my fender bike. Thinking about what I would want to have for braking for a next bike for larger tires. Was thinking disc, but this thread has me reconsidering Paul Racer/Racer M or even a high-quality canti.

Anyone have a good reference to optimizing canti setup? Or perhaps someone would start a new thread on that? Seems that those who like them have figured out how to make them work best. My 720s are a lower-end brake that I bet would benefit from being set up better....

Thanks!

I would set mine up wide and low for best leverage - talking Dia-Compe 987 or old XT/XTR, but had a number of boutique ones back in the day too (wish I still had all of them of course ).

Lever pull matters too.

[sandyrs]

Originally Posted by Clean39T

Fork shudder is much more likely on disc-brakes than cantilevers due to the brake placement..

that is absolutely not true in my experience.

maybe it's because disc forks are typically built much stiffer throughout but i've never had a fork shudder using disc brakes (I did the setup), and i've never *not* had shudder with cantis set up by extremely competent mechanics.

mini-v's are also well known for their ability to eliminate shudder on bikes where canti's cause it. the brake placement is the same.

[ColonelJLloyd]

I want 50mm tires and fenders on my road bike. Guess what that means.

[thwart]

Originally Posted by sandyrs

... i've never *not* had shudder with cantis set up by extremely competent mechanics.

Come ride my Moots PSX.

And I certainly don't describe myself that way...

[livingminimal]

Originally Posted by Erik_A

I would argue that good cantis allow for the same stopping power -

they literally don't.
I don't know why people keep making this argument.

[livingminimal]

Originally Posted by Clean39T

Fork shudder is much more likely on disc-brakes than cantilevers due to the brake placement..

Its literally not.
I don't know why people keep making this argument.

[livingminimal]

Originally Posted by sandyrs

i've never had a fork shudder using disc brakes (I did the setup)

I have, and it sucks, just like on Cantis. The difference? its extremely rare.

Originally Posted by sandyrs

and i've never *not* had shudder with cantis set up by extremely competent mechanics.

Exactly. The stuff I ride locally on a cross/gravel bike there are 0 instances where I would not get loads of terrifying shudder/chatter, regardless of who set up my brakes. They're cantis, and doing 14% descents on rutted hardpack and sandy gravel will ensure I am squeezing for my life, because I literally am.

Originally Posted by sandyrs

mini-v's are also well known for their ability to eliminate shudder on bikes where canti's cause it. the brake placement is the same.

If I ever end up with another canti bike, these are the only brakes I would use.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Originally Posted by livingminimal

they literally don't.
I don't know why people keep making this argument.

The argument is usually "if it can lock up the wheel then it's the same". Ok, but what about the braking between none to locking it up? Personally, I find great difference and nuance in speed modulation. That's not to say that rim brakes can't give you good modulation, but it's a "horses for courses" situation to me.

The sillier and just as oft-employed reasoning is "disc brakes aren't necessary". In what world is "necessary" a criteria regarding our toys?

[livingminimal]

Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd

The sillier and just as oft-employed reasoning is "disc brakes aren't necessary". In what world is "necessary" a criteria regarding our toys?

I agree with this statement 100%. I am happy for anyone happy on their cantis. Stay safe and have fun, just don't sell me a fictitious bill of goods about comparisons on power/modulation/reliability/chatter.

On the road, my campy calipers stop me just fine, as does my disc setup on the road. I am not going to pretend one isn't a more effective stopper than the other.