Chris King R45 play

[stephenmarklay]

I have too much side to side play in the rear hub. Is there a good little video or something to look at for adjustment (without special tools?)

[stephenmarklay]

I figured it out. I was not sure the collar was threaded but now I know.

[Nooch]

I have this issue too -- can you share how you resolved?

[chiasticon]

you use a 2.5mm hex to unscrew the bolt on the collar on the non drive side. right next to that 2.5mm bolt, there's also a little hole you can stick the same hex wrench into. then use leverage from that to tighten the collar. once it's set well, tighten the 2.5mm bolt again.

my rule of thumb for "how tight" is to get where when I stop spinning the cranks (in a stand), there's a bit of drag pulling them backwards. then I'll back off the collar a bit and tighten.

[adrien]

Yup.

They often need this in the first 500 miles or so. In my experience, they then settle down and don't need much ajusting.

[parallelfish]

Or, one could consult the manual:

https://chrisking.com/files/public/c...l_12_21_16.pdf

[mecse]

Consult the manual and you will get the guidance to :

1. hand tighten
2. whilst pushing on the axle from the opposite end

You can do this with the the wheel in the frame if you like; It makes a big difference.

[bshell]

I like the idea of doing this with the wheel in the frame but don't you need to hold the axle in place with a 5mm allen in the drive side?

Seems like otherwise the axle would turn with the preload collar...?

[bshell]

I forgot about the pressure from the dropout on the other end of the axle with the little teeth.

[phoenix]

I’m having difficulty getting my R45 to stay properly adjusted. So instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would piggyback onto this one.

I can’t seem to permanently eliminate the play in my rear R45. I’ve adjusted it many times, but the little bit of play always seems to come back. I’ve adjusted it with a 5mm in the ds of the axle while applying pressure to the hub body while snugging up the adjusting clamp with the set screw to follow. I’ve also adjusted it on the bike with the same results. I’ve snugged up the adjusting clamp everywhere from where it is just starting to preload everything all the way to snugging it up tight (tight within reason, not bearing down on it) as well. I’ve followed the CK instructions to a “T” as well, all with the same results.

Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!

[parallelfish]

Originally Posted by phoenix

I’m having difficulty getting my R45 to stay properly adjusted. So instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would piggyback onto this one.

I can’t seem to permanently eliminate the play in my rear R45. I’ve adjusted it many times, but the little bit of play always seems to come back. I’ve adjusted it with a 5mm in the ds of the axle while applying pressure to the hub body while snugging up the adjusting clamp with the set screw to follow. I’ve also adjusted it on the bike with the same results. I’ve snugged up the adjusting clamp everywhere from where it is just starting to preload everything all the way to snugging it up tight (tight within reason, not bearing down on it) as well. I’ve followed the CK instructions to a “T” as well, all with the same results.

Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!

Is this a new hub? When new, I had to readjust the rear hub frequently. I resorted to setting up the hub to eliminate play with quick release set up toward the loose side. Then tightened up the QR a bit each time play developed. Then repeated once the QR became overly tight.

This way I avoided several iterations of hub adjustment. Once broken in, the hub adjustment has remained pretty stable.

[phoenix]

Originally Posted by parallelfish

Is this a new hub? When new, I had to readjust the rear hub frequently. I resorted to setting up the hub to eliminate play with quick release set up toward the loose side. Then tightened up the QR a bit each time play developed. Then repeated once the QR became overly tight.

This way I avoided several iterations of hub adjustment. Once broken in, the hub adjustment has remained pretty stable.

Not super new, they have 1700 miles on them.

[moobikes]

Are you actually compressing the spring inside the driveshell? That's not always obvious. The spring allows the axle to move side to side about 2 or 3 mm, as you push on the DS axle end cap. The adjustment collar has to be snugged down when this spring is in compression.

Also, the adjustment collar changes in diameter/ circumference as you tighten or loosen the set screw. This affects the final preload on the bearing.

With the wheel on the bike, and the QR at normal operating tightness, some play can be adjusted out of the bearings or the rim just by loosening up the set screw on the adjustment collar a tiny bit.

If you did everything while the spring in the driveshell is in compression, the whole thing should not loosen up while in use.

[bshell]

If Campagnolo, and if fhub is aluminum, it's possible there is another issue...cracking along the splines.

[phoenix]

Originally Posted by bshell

If Campagnolo, and if fhub is aluminum, it's possible there is another issue...cracking along the splines.

SRAM/Shimano

Originally Posted by moobikes

Also, the adjustment collar changes in diameter/ circumference as you tighten or loosen the set screw. This affects the final preload on the bearing.

Ok, this makes sense, I thought that I noticed that once or twice.