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  #1  
Old 11-19-2014, 11:05 AM
hockeybike hockeybike is offline
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Rusty seat post -- what to do for seat tube?

I have a salsa casseroll that I bought a while ago. Pulled the seatpost and found the seatpost had a layer of rust, so I assume there's a bunch of rust in the seattube now, too. What should I do to the seattube of the bike to prevent further corrosion? I live in LA now, so humidity and rain are a non-issue, but I like the frame a lot so I don't want to just ignore the rust that likely already exists down there.


As for the rusty seatpost, I'll probably just chuck it instead of dealing with sanding it down since that always works so well with seatposts.
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:21 AM
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David Kirk David Kirk is offline
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Did it take a lot of force to get the post out? What material is the post?

dave
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  #3  
Old 11-19-2014, 11:36 AM
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David Tollefson David Tollefson is offline
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Run a rag through it, grease the seatpost and insert, run some frame-saver or linseed oil up the seat tube from the BB, and call it good. Remove the seatpost after wet rides and drain of any moisture (maybe let it sit open for a while), re-grease occasionally.
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeybike View Post
found the seatpost had a layer of rust
Given that almost any seatpost likely to be used in a Salsa is made from aluminum or titanium I'm just a bit puzzled by that.
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  #5  
Old 11-19-2014, 12:07 PM
pbarry pbarry is offline
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it's a steel frame, no?
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  #6  
Old 11-19-2014, 01:12 PM
hockeybike hockeybike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Kirk View Post
Did it take a lot of force to get the post out? What material is the post?

dave
Steel seat tube (whole frame, actually), and I imagine the seatpost is made of aluminum. Seemed like a cheapy SR/Kalloy type of deal, for sure, but painted black.

I was able to get the post out without resorting to any sort of a vise grip, but I did have to use more force than on a non-corroded post, for sure.
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Old 11-19-2014, 01:21 PM
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David Kirk David Kirk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeybike View Post
Steel seat tube (whole frame, actually), and I imagine the seatpost is made of aluminum. Seemed like a cheapy SR/Kalloy type of deal, for sure, but painted black.

I was able to get the post out without resorting to any sort of a vise grip, but I did have to use more force than on a non-corroded post, for sure.
I would wipe down the post and get it smooth.......if it has a redish stain but is smooth it's fine.

I'd then take a rag and wrap it around a dowel and use it to wipe out the inside of the seat tube to get it clean and dry. Once this is done take a look inside and feel with your finger - it should be relatively smooth and I'll bet it is.

Lastly I'd schmear a coat of grease on the inside of the seat tube and likewise wipe some on the post and then put it back together and enjoy the ride.

If you want to go the extra mile give the frame a treatment of Framesaver and then it will outlast you.

I asked how hard it was to get the post out because if it was badly corroded it would have been VERY hard to get the post out.....or even impossible without cutting it. This tells me there is no serous issue in there. If it's smoothish and not pitted it's more than fine.

dave
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Old 11-19-2014, 01:22 PM
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nicrump nicrump is offline
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not uncommon for rust residue to find itself hitching a ride on a dissimilar seatpost when removed. the fact it came out somewhat easily says it is probably not a problem. clean or replace the post as you see fit but for sure I'd run a flex hone on the ID of the seat tube and lube up for re-insertion of the post.

edit, ps, what Dave said.
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  #9  
Old 11-19-2014, 02:19 PM
hockeybike hockeybike is offline
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Thanks all. Will treat the seat tube with a flexhone/dowel, grease up the post, and call it a day.
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2014, 06:57 AM
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David Tollefson David Tollefson is offline
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Ease up! Pass on the flex hone.
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  #11  
Old 11-20-2014, 07:42 AM
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nicrump nicrump is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tollefson View Post
Ease up! Pass on the flex hone.
why? it is how to get a nice new surface while maintaining concentricity and not removing measurable material.
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2014, 08:54 AM
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Dr Luxurious Dr Luxurious is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicrump View Post
why? it is how to get a nice new surface while maintaining concentricity and not removing measurable material.
yeah. we used to hone them all the time - back in Wisconsin in the 80s when most frames were still steel (and corroded from road salt)

If it is steel and it is rusty inside then get some naval jelly & stop that rust.
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Last edited by Dr Luxurious; 11-20-2014 at 08:58 AM.
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2014, 02:05 PM
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David Tollefson David Tollefson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicrump View Post
why? it is how to get a nice new surface while maintaining concentricity and not removing measurable material.
It's a fine line between "not measurable" and "won't hold the seatpost".
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2014, 08:34 PM
bikinchris bikinchris is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicrump View Post
not uncommon for rust residue to find itself hitching a ride on a dissimilar seatpost when removed. the fact it came out somewhat easily says it is probably not a problem. clean or replace the post as you see fit but for sure I'd run a flex hone on the ID of the seat tube and lube up for re-insertion of the post.

edit, ps, what Dave said.
I agree. LIGHT pass with 1 1/8 inch ball hone. Lube inside of seat tube liberally.
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Last edited by bikinchris; 11-20-2014 at 08:44 PM.
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  #15  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tollefson View Post
It's a fine line between "not measurable" and "won't hold the seatpost".
you have to work really hard to eff up your ID with an oiled up flex hone.
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