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  #1  
Old 11-21-2014, 12:29 AM
d_douglas d_douglas is offline
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Cleaning tubie rims - necessary?

So I am an amateur with tubulars. I own one set of Record/Nemesis wheels that I bought used and I have used up the Schwalbe tubies that came with them.

I bought new Vittoria Corsa Elite 25s in the Spring and replaced the front, which was dead, but didn't bother with the rear. Now I need to do this and when I stripped the old tire off, I found that there was way more glue on the rear than what was on the front wheel. In fact, it is a mess.

I spent a bit of time cleaning up the front, but they were by no mans clean when I put the new tire on. The brown nasty gunk caked on the rear leads me to think that I cannot correctly mount the new tire and when I tried halfheartedly to clean it, it is really tough to do.

Do I need to do it? Should I go to the trouble? If yes, how?!?!

These were former pro wheels , so they were well cared for. I guess they superglue rear tubulars in Eurooe?!

Thanks for any replies,

Darren
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  #2  
Old 11-21-2014, 12:33 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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Short answer is NO.

The reaosn maybe the rear has more glue is not because they super glue the tubular to the rim, but because the rear was swapped many more times than the front one because of punctures, the rear worn out quick or anything else you can think of.

If you want to clean just use some mineral spirits to soft the glue, other people just a drill with a metal brush... you have to be creative.

If you glu over the top the old glue will become softer.
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  #3  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:18 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_douglas View Post
So I am an amateur with tubulars. I own one set of Record/Nemesis wheels that I bought used and I have used up the Schwalbe tubies that came with them.

I bought new Vittoria Corsa Elite 25s in the Spring and replaced the front, which was dead, but didn't bother with the rear. Now I need to do this and when I stripped the old tire off, I found that there was way more glue on the rear than what was on the front wheel. In fact, it is a mess.

I spent a bit of time cleaning up the front, but they were by no mans clean when I put the new tire on. The brown nasty gunk caked on the rear leads me to think that I cannot correctly mount the new tire and when I tried halfheartedly to clean it, it is really tough to do.

Do I need to do it? Should I go to the trouble? If yes, how?!?!

These were former pro wheels , so they were well cared for. I guess they superglue rear tubulars in Eurooe?!

Thanks for any replies,

Darren
Is it really glumpy? So yes, if it is. Somebody here mentioned some sort of wheel on a drill, or green scratchy pad, 3M glue remover. Butter knife.

Doesn't have to be as new, pristine, just the chunks off.
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  #4  
Old 11-21-2014, 11:34 AM
p nut p nut is offline
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Is it advisable to use ammonia or cleaners with ammonia (i.e. Windex)? I've used it to get window tint glue off of car windows. Just scraped right off with no residue. Not sure what reaction it will have with aluminum or carbon (if at all).
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  #5  
Old 11-21-2014, 12:40 PM
stackie stackie is offline
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I'm kind of OCD so I do clean them when they get bad. Just brush on a thick furniture stripper. Outside. Let sit 12-24 hours and the glue will pretty much just wipe off. Easy.

Jon
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  #6  
Old 11-21-2014, 12:49 PM
tylerbick tylerbick is offline
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Cleaning tubie rims - necessary?

We use a cheap heat gun for Mastik One removal here at the shop. It dosen't work so great on tubasti, but that's not what it sounds like you're dealing with. If it were, Zylol would be the solution. If you just want to take a little off the top rather than remove it all and start fresh, just use a rag and some stove fuel AKA "white gas" it's even better than acetone. It evaporates just a little slower and noticeably more effective without more fumes.
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:45 PM
d_douglas d_douglas is offline
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geez - toxic! Well, I might pull out a hair dryer with some acetone and crack a beer?
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  #8  
Old 11-21-2014, 02:27 PM
El Chaba El Chaba is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerbick View Post
We use a cheap heat gun for Mastik One removal here at the shop. It dosen't work so great on tubasti, but that's not what it sounds like you're dealing with. If it were, Zylol would be the solution. If you just want to take a little off the top rather than remove it all and start fresh, just use a rag and some stove fuel AKA "white gas" it's even better than acetone. It evaporates just a little slower and noticeably more effective without more fumes.
Pay attention to this post....This guy knows what he is talking about...
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  #9  
Old 11-21-2014, 03:25 PM
Jaq Jaq is offline
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Originally Posted by stackie View Post
I'm kind of OCD so I do clean them when they get bad. Just brush on a thick furniture stripper. Outside. Let sit 12-24 hours and the glue will pretty much just wipe off. Easy.

Jon
This.

Paint stripper (on alloy wheels only) and some heavy gauge steel wool and the old glue comes right off.
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  #10  
Old 11-21-2014, 03:36 PM
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Dead Man Dead Man is offline
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I have to wonder about mixing glues, myself. I don't know exactly WHAT I wonder... I wonder if it'll bond well, if using solvent to clean up the existing glue will interfere with it's structure... I wonder if the glue that's on the rim isn't some crappy glue that isn't going to hold as well or hold up as well as a fresh coat of Mastik One....

I recently cleaned up a set of used carbon rims that had a TON of unknown glue on them. Brand new bed of brand new Mastik One, the strongest stuff out there.... I pull Gs in corners fearlessly. Just wasn't worth the doubt, to me. But I am also a total noob to tubs.
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