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  #1  
Old 04-22-2017, 09:41 PM
kramnnim kramnnim is offline
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Diagnosing King R45 problems?

Noticed some play in my rear R45 hub. Took it apart and noticed some hairline cracks in the drive shell, at the lockring end of the splines.

I don't think the cracks are related to the play.

The hub design is unlike many more "normal" hubs. The drive side hub shell bearing rotates around the drive shell/freehub body, instead of directly on the axle.

If I grab the rim at the 12 oclock position with the wheel mounted, and rock it to the right, the tooth on the cassette at 12 oclock moves towards the spokes, and the tooth at 6 oclock moves away from the spokes. When I move rim to the left, the opposite happens.

Obviously the drive shell should be replaced, since it is cracked. But I'm not sure what else is wrong...the drive side hub shell bearing, or the NDS drive shell bearing, or...?

Considering the cost of a new Campy drive shell ($175), I am thinking it may be more economical to buy a new White Industies hub and spokes...

Tightening the preload collar didn't seem to fix it, but I guess I should make sure.

When pedaling pressure is applied, most of the play goes away- I assume because the drive shell is forced towards the hub shell, solidifying that interface...
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Old 04-22-2017, 11:27 PM
bshell bshell is offline
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Not to worry!!!! (probably)

I assume you have the aluminum drive shell (splined freehub body)?

If so, Chris King will replace it with their new stainless steel version for free if you send the wheel to them. Otherwise they will send you a new drive shell and you will need to swap the bearings, etc. That requires their tool.

The campy splined required too much material to be taken away for the aluminum ones to last. They crack along a spline (or three) and the cassette gets funky and the hub sounds funky and the funkiness ultimately culminates in a seized wheel and a walk/cab ride home.

Give 'em a call. They're cool and will get you sorted out. It is unlikely you need any new bearings.

(diagnosed w/o pictures and I only play a mechanical doctor on the internets)
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  #3  
Old 04-23-2017, 12:00 AM
kramnnim kramnnim is offline
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Oh, wow. So this was a known, common problem? Yes, it is alloy, and yes, very thin at the splines.
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  #4  
Old 04-23-2017, 01:45 AM
beeatnik beeatnik is offline
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  #5  
Old 04-23-2017, 04:27 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kramnnim View Post
Noticed some play in my rear R45 hub. Took it apart and noticed some hairline cracks in the drive shell, at the lockring end of the splines.

I don't think the cracks are related to the play.

The hub design is unlike many more "normal" hubs. The drive side hub shell bearing rotates around the drive shell/freehub body, instead of directly on the axle.

If I grab the rim at the 12 oclock position with the wheel mounted, and rock it to the right, the tooth on the cassette at 12 oclock moves towards the spokes, and the tooth at 6 oclock moves away from the spokes. When I move rim to the left, the opposite happens.

Obviously the drive shell should be replaced, since it is cracked. But I'm not sure what else is wrong...the drive side hub shell bearing, or the NDS drive shell bearing, or...?

Considering the cost of a new Campy drive shell ($175), I am thinking it may be more economical to buy a new White Industies hub and spokes...

Tightening the preload collar didn't seem to fix it, but I guess I should make sure.

When pedaling pressure is applied, most of the play goes away- I assume because the drive shell is forced towards the hub shell, solidifying that interface...
Or any other cheaper, more reliable more simple, rear hub..Campag Record, WI, DT...
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  #6  
Old 04-23-2017, 11:18 AM
11.4 11.4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kramnnim View Post
Oh, wow. So this was a known, common problem? Yes, it is alloy, and yes, very thin at the splines.
It's an occasional problem. Chris King likes Shimano and builds for Shimano dimensions. That means you run out of room for Campy cassettes unless you make the shell pretty thin. There isn't a part out there that one can't find a half dozen broken examples of, so I wouldn't get upset about it at this point.

Perhaps the only place I disagree with Spud (except about Campy tattoos) is on Chris King hubs; I've always found them superbly reliable and durable. They were designed by an engineer who basically was willing to impose some limitations on them to get other characteristics really above and beyond. Think how Shimano kept doing that with some components like their 7700 Octalink bottom brackets -- best bottom bracket ever except you need to service it carefully. Ditto for 7400 and 7701 pedals. It's just a design philosophy and customers are free to buy it or not.

Chris King does have superb customer support and will replace the shell. If you ship the wheel to them, I'm sure they'll even swap the part out and make sure everything is working precisely before they ship it back.
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Old 04-23-2017, 12:23 PM
CiclistiCliff CiclistiCliff is offline
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King is pretty decent at warranty related services. They'll hit you with a small labor fee, but will replace all the internals most of the time.

I've sent out a handful of King hubs to them as they had odd issues from parts being out of spec/failures. They never tell you what was actually wrong with it...
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  #8  
Old 04-23-2017, 03:43 PM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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[QUOTE=11.4;2162044]It's an occasional problem. Chris King likes Shimano and builds for Shimano dimensions. That means you run out of room for Campy cassettes unless you make the shell pretty thin. There isn't a part out there that one can't find a half dozen broken examples of, so I wouldn't get upset about it at this point.

Perhaps the only place I disagree with Spud (except about Campy tattoos) is on Chris King hubs; I've always found them superbly reliable and durable. They were designed by an engineer who basically was willing to impose some limitations on them to get other characteristics really above and beyond. Think how Shimano kept doing that with some components like their 7700 Octalink bottom brackets -- best bottom bracket ever except you need to service it carefully. Ditto for 7400 and 7701 pedals. It's just a design philosophy and customers are free to buy it or not.


Chris King does have superb customer support and will replace the shell. If you ship the wheel to them, I'm sure they'll even swap the part out and make sure everything is working precisely before they ship it back.[/QUOTE

Agree but geez, they are so complicated and way proprietary, for a bike hub. Way expensive answer to a pretty simple question, imho.

And you NEED a Campag tattoo, but you'll never get just one.
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  #9  
Old 05-25-2017, 02:05 PM
kramnnim kramnnim is offline
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Took a while, but I got my wheel back today! They installed a new stainless drive shell and serviced the hub. I only paid to ship it out there.
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  #10  
Old 05-25-2017, 03:46 PM
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berserk87 berserk87 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kramnnim View Post
Took a while, but I got my wheel back today! They installed a new stainless drive shell and serviced the hub. I only paid to ship it out there.
Excellent news. Glad to hear they took care of you. This makes me feel better about my own Chris King products.
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  #11  
Old 05-25-2017, 03:59 PM
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SlowPokePete SlowPokePete is offline
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Originally Posted by kramnnim View Post
Took a while, but I got my wheel back today! They installed a new stainless drive shell and serviced the hub. I only paid to ship it out there.
That's pretty good.

Makes me proud to own a bunch of wheel sets with King hubs.

SPP
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