anti seize on ti--how much & what kind?

[Dekonick]

Originally Posted by Kontact

It's funny how QBP doesn't even carry a copper based Ti-prep product anymore.

Servicing Ti frames is about the only place anti-seize is commonly used in shops anymore.

And most shops just go to advance auto /pep boys/ Napa and pick up a bottle for much cheaper than QBP ever even thought about charging... Same for thread locker... hell - lots of crap not to be found or overpriced @ QBP.

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by Dekonick

And most shops just go to advance auto /pep boys/ Napa and pick up a bottle for much cheaper than QBP ever even thought about charging... Same for thread locker... hell - lots of crap not to be found or overpriced @ QBP.

Actually, Park anti-seize is cheaper than a smaller tube of the other stuff.

I was just pointing out that shops that service Ti bikes don't seem to be sweating the type of anti-seize. The copper stuff isn't in large demand.

[pakora]

a hi 5 to 11.4 for the detailed answer here. I stumbled on this thread by google search!

<off to buy Permatex for new ti frame>

[11.4]

Go to an industrial or sophisticated auto parts store and get one of the jars of copper anti seize from Permatex, Locktite, whoever. Any of the major brands is fine. Permatex is hard to find regionally at times. And the bike industry buys and repackages cheap stuff, which tends to have less metal in it and uses a cheaper grease, on the grounds that the need isn't as technical. But you can buy an 8 ounce bottle with a brush and never have to buy it again, so I'd just get stuff that's actually specified for high stress applications and you can know you're getting the right stuff.

[Satellite]

Wow I guess I have been doing it wrong for years. I use Permatex Antiseize very sparingly except headset install where it's a press fitting. I load it up and wipe the excess that gets squeezed out. I agree it's the gift that keeps giving. For the bottom bracket I use small blops where the threads start. For the seatpost I use Phil Wood Grease applied sparingly in nice even coat. Antiseize here is a huge mess. If I recall correctly Moots uses an aluminum sleeve so it's NOT a ti-on-ti situation with a Moots seatpost.

[bobdenver1961]

This is what I have used on several titanium bikes. So far so good.

[m_sasso]

COMPARISON OF ANTI-SEIZE TYPES
Historically there have been three basic types of Anti-Seize on the market:

COPPER BASE
Copper base anti-seize offers good corrosion protection on all kinds of steel, but not stainless steel. Copper on stainless steel creates an inter-crystaline corrosion, which can make actual stainless steel parts crack and break. This is why the nuclear power plants do not allow copper with any material which comes in contact with the stainless steel parts.
Temperature Range: 2200° F

ALUMINUM BASE
Aluminum as a base material for Anti-Seize is good for use on stainless steel, but cannot be used on carbon steel, due to the fact that when it comes in contact with an electrolyte it becomes an anode and since this anode is extremely small in volume compared to the large cathode of the steel, it usually deteriorates quickly, leaving no protection at all on the steel surface. Corrosion therefore takes place at a higher rate of speed, as if no anti-seize would have been present.
Temperature Range: 1470° F

NICKEL BASE
Nickel has been used extensively in Anti-Seize materials, because it has good anti-seize and corrosion protection for both steel and stainless steel. However, nickel has been for many years, on the list of carcinogens ( cancer producing products ) and should not be used in applications where nickel based anti-seize is used on materials handled in workshops.
Temperature Range: 2500° F

[Ti Designs]

Too much of the "how?", not enough of the "why?".

There's a right material and a wrong material of any job, generating force by sliding a titanium surface against another titanium surface is in the wrong category.

[tylercheung]

There's Permatex Copper ("09128"), vs. Permatex Aluminum ("80078") anti-seize (which has "highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants.") which I guess used to be the "silver"? I figure both would work?

[Dekonick]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

this stuff, get it at the auto parts store. bike specific stuff is all marketing. more is better, coat the threads fully, wipe off the excess.

This.

[Cat3roadracer]

My trusted and very experienced mechanic just a few days ago advised against silver anti seize on Ti. Copper yes, silver no. He said the silver paste would encourage the cold weld process.

[RoosterCogset]

Originally Posted by Kontact

Actually, Park anti-seize is cheaper than a smaller tube of the other stuff.

I was just pointing out that shops that service Ti bikes don't seem to be sweating the type of anti-seize. The copper stuff isn't in large demand.

Originally Posted by bobdenver1961

This is what I have used on several titanium bikes. So far so good.

I've used the Park stuff also, but this thread had me wondering. This is what's in this though. I don't see copper listed, so is this pretty much an aluminum based anti-seize?

https://www.parktool.com/assets/doc/.../ASC-1_SDS.pdf

[RoosterCogset]

Originally Posted by RoosterCogset

I've used the Park stuff also, but this thread had me wondering. This is what's in this though. I don't see copper listed, so is this pretty much an aluminum based anti-seize?

https://www.parktool.com/assets/doc/.../ASC-1_SDS.pdf

In fact, Park's anti-seize seems to rely on talc and limestone as the additives.. which a bit different than what's being discussed as optimal.

[Matthew]

I've only ever used Park grease. Never had anything seize

[unterhausen]

Loctite (Henkel) has a Ti specific anti-seize that uses graphite and calcium fluoride https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...e_lb_8070.html

I think most anti-seize is used on high temperature applications where plating out the metals wouldn't be that bad. And then the metal shears when loosening. I spent more time looking at this than I really wanted and decided that grease is perfectly fine for bicycle parts.