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#16
10-24-2014, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
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#17
10-24-2014, 10:16 PM
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Yes.. these will be road wheels for me. However... I've recently done some gravel riding on wider/softer tires than I'm used to, and man... the ride was so much smoother. I don't think I want to go back to 140psi <23mm tires again.
Thinking about looking for a 25mm slick I can roll at like 100psi.
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#18
10-25-2014, 08:25 AM
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not tape
I don't want to start a tape v. glue debate, but you should google problems with tubular tape and carbon rims. I recall seeing threads about the tape pulling up pieces of the rim bed when the tape is removed. Given that you've had that problem already (which, afaik, is quite rare), you should check that out first.
Glue can be messy, but the process is rather fun.
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#19
10-25-2014, 08:36 AM
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IIRC, either here (or probably at Leonard Zinn's column) at least one carbon wheel manufacturer has had a rep say that the rim bed is not load bearing in any way, and losing a bit of carbon there is not concerning. However, all bets are off if it extends over the rim edge and onto the brake track.
__________________
Old... and in the way.
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#21
10-25-2014, 12:05 PM
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Indirect: http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.co...-tubulars.html Pictures from that post:   Being extremely risk averse I haven't even thought about trying tape. Glue has worked well for me. I'm not saying tape doesn't work because I know a lot of riders that use tape, but I see no compelling reason to switch to tape.
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#22
10-25-2014, 01:07 PM
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What about tire weight? Everything I'm looking at for a "decent" price is around 300g.... that's crazy heavy. Where's the weight savings? Do you have to spend $150/wheel to enjoy the famous weight savings of tubulars?? Obviously the wheels themselves save around 200g per set, but I though I was going to stack up additional savings with tires also. Even cheap clinchers run barely more than 300g with tubes
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#23
10-25-2014, 01:42 PM
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Tubular tires aren't famous for their light weight, but good ones are adored for their ride qualities. The light weight reputation comes from the rims. Get a pair of Veloflex, FMB or Vittoria Corsa CXs and see what all of the hype is about. They are really, really nice. Cheap tubulars tires are going to ride like poo.
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#24
10-25-2014, 03:32 PM
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The Contractor's Solvent is definitely eating through the glue better than the acetone, but I think there's just a ···· ton of glue on there to eat through. It's been soaking since last night... I've gone out and scraped them three or four times, re-dousing afterward to let sit again, and I think I'm still only halfway through it. Some of the glue on the bottom is almost cement-like and the solvent doesn't seem to be penetrating to it
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#25
10-26-2014, 12:06 AM
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One down... the front cleaned up in 24 hours, but the rear had about twice as much crap on it, and I'm still working on it.
I can tell the Contractor's Solvent will work great for cleaning up single applications of glue, which I will do between changings.. but it struggles to eat through 1/8th inch thick accumulation. Nothing will take the clear coat or decals off. I tried two types of lacquer thinner and acetone. I have a can of xylene somewhere, I guess I'll try that next. I could just rattle-can them, I guess, if I masked the brake track.... would be easy enough to remove later, since we know acetone won't touch the factory clear coat! 
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#26
10-26-2014, 05:41 AM
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You don't need the clean all the glue off between every tire change.
__________________
www.performancesci.com - Performance through science
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#27
10-26-2014, 08:55 AM
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I agree but anals sure will do it all the time :P
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#28
10-26-2014, 09:27 AM
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Corsa CXs weigh ~250g and can be had for ~$55/pc….even a nice clincher + latex tube is gonna weigh 275-300g and will cost $45-50. A cheap clincher and run of the mill tube will weigh 350-375g (if not more).
BTW…With contact cement…it's not a matter of soaking…you need the mechanical…i.e. "elbow grease" to make it happen! Use a cloth/rag/paper towels and rub the cement off of the rim using the solvent…when there is only residue left…"rinse" it with an acetone wipe down then re-glue. -Mark in St. Louis Quote:
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#29
10-26-2014, 10:13 AM
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#30
10-27-2014, 12:56 AM
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I don't want to poop on your thread/excitement, but I too was once bright-eyed and stoked for the project and learning experience that comes with tubies. I haven't completely shut down the idea (I still have a set) but as I get older my patience for them has worn thin.
I've had my best luck following the Park gluing method. Best adhesion for me has always been with a rim that already had some light glue buildup (vs. a clean rim). The process of cleaning a rim is laborious. I might still be doing something wrong but my takeaway is that it's still more of an art then a scientific process, and there is nothing more frustrating then going through the entire process only to find you (inexplicably) got poor adhesion and you need to go back and redux/repeat. After that happens a couple times, the romance of a tubie is lost (for me, anyway)...
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