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#1
05-02-2016, 11:56 PM
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Tubular repairs
Does anyone out there re-tape tubulars or know of who does?
It would be great if there was someone north of the border . But I would send to the States if I had to . Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Trevor 
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#2
05-03-2016, 12:00 AM
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Tubular repairs
I would be willing to try a DIY if I could source some base tape as well.
I am not sure what or the difference of the base tape glue would be ?In comparison to Mastik or tubular glue? Any thoughts? Cheers
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#5
05-03-2016, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo
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#6
05-03-2016, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo
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#8
05-03-2016, 09:03 AM
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Our club does an almost annual Tire Alert "order".
Holy smokes the prices. Okay, I agree with the UK order thing. Even a brand new tire that gets a staple-flat kind of thing... I think I've paid less than their repair prices for a new tire (Vittoria EVO, a good one, not a vulcanized flat-mold el-cheapo training tire). This is one of those "the time may not be worth it but if you have a few good tires to patch then maybe it's worth giving it a shot" kind of things. Of course then I Googled tubular tire repair kits.
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#9
05-04-2016, 08:38 PM
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The tire is a twice used Dugast Rhino. The rim tape is pulled off the tire in three spots and then rolled off. At a super greasy race two seasons ago. Each spot is several inches in length and approximately half to three quarters of the tape in width. Way too nice of a tire to just hang on the wall... I'm going to clean it again the best I can then source some adhesive to
repair the existing tape.I'll test the two adhesives suggested on some old tubulars hanging around first . If it fails again I'll send it out for a retaping. If i could source some base tape i would definately give it a go ! Would a person have to contact the Manufacturer for base tape? There needs to be more people around doing this for sure. With some practice I'm sure one could get good at it. Thanks to all have replied . Any more thoughts are Greatly appreciated. Cheers Trevor
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#10
05-04-2016, 10:09 PM
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Better to use the existing tape than to re-tape. And use Barge Cement. That's really the best. Weldwood Contact Cement won't work as well. Barge Cement is made to glue soles on shoes and other similar applications where there is major flexing going on, exposure to water, and so on.
When you say "greasy," I presume you mean silty dirt and clay? You want to clean as much of that off as possible. Inflate the tire to a few pounds pressure and clean everything exhaustively with mild soap and water, and then lots of water till everything is clean and soap free. Then let it dry thoroughly. It may not dry entirely in the open air, but I use a sweater drying rack in a clothes dryer to be sure everything is warm but not cooked and every bit of water is drawn out. Don't tumble the tire because it's hard on the tire and can stretch the base tape so it won't fit properly. Once you're ready, read the instructions on the Barge cement and glue the base tape in those three areas back onto the tire. Tug the loose base tape a little to be sure that everything that is loose is undone and open to be reglued. If the tape is stretched already and there is excess length, cut it diagonally and let the ends overlap as needed. When you've glued it, if it's a road tire, mount it on a bare rim and pump up to 40-50 psi to keep pressure on the glue joint. If it's a cross tire with a very wide base tape, you'll want to wrap the glued areas with a piece of wide bias tape with about 20 psi in the tire and then add another 20 psi to squeeze the tire against the bias tape. That way, the entire width of the base tape is pressed into the casing. In the future, when removing tires, pry one tiny spot loose with a blunted screwdriver or your favorite tool, then slip the screwdriver all the way through so it lies across the high points of the rim. Rock it side to side to loosen the glue joint, slide it a couple inches, repeat, and keep at this until about a third or more of the tire is loose. Then you should be able to pull it off the rim and carefully pull the entire tire off the rim without any base tape separating. Unless you rolled the tire to separate these three areas, you shouldn't have the base tape come free. (I say that acknowledging that these are hand-crafted tires and guaranteed to lose their base tapes even as they're sitting unmounted in the closet.)
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#11
05-05-2016, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Thanks in advance!
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#12
05-05-2016, 10:29 AM
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#14
05-06-2016, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Old... and in the way.
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#15
05-06-2016, 07:20 PM
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Thanks 11.4 that is great information and detail. Yes the soil was a sand and clay mixture. . I will clean it and dry it well before trying the Barge cement.
Thanks again for the replies .This is great dialogue for people using tubulars out there. My Sunday ride has tubulars . As well as the race wheels that I use on occasion. As for the punctured tubulars hanging in the shop. They will be good for R&D. Cheers
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