SOLVED CAAD10 creak

[NHAero]

My 2011 CAAD10 creaks. It's definitely drivetrain - stops completely when I stop pedaling. It's not the cleats or pedals - I swapped out to flats and tried that but the creak is still there. One more piece of data - when I push hard on the pedals, still seated, the creaking stops. So say I'm pedaling along at 125W and it creaks, but when I double my effort it stops.

Ideas?

Thanks

[TBLS]

Could be many things...eliminate one at a time.

First thing I always check is quick release, making sure tight and lubed

[Big Dan]

I know it sounds crazy, but start with the front quick release.

[Cicli]

BB30 rules.

[jtbadge]

Regrease your seatpost, maybe? That's what most of my creaks have turned out to be.

If you're running BB30 cranks, it's probably not the cranks. If you have adapters...

[bianchi10]

My buddy had a 2015 CAAD10 that creaked really bad. Bike shop had it after almost every ride for 6 months. Would take it in, they would try to make adjustments and solve the issue, but nothing worked. They ended up reaching out to Cannondale last week and telling them about all the work they've done and it needed to be warrantied. They did so and he got a new 2017 CAAD12 black inc as a replacement, for free. Came into the shop yesterday and will be built up this weekend. If youve had consistent issues with it, I'd ask your bike shop to look into a replacement. Must have proof of purchase receipt though.

[Ralph]

On my CAAD 10.....had a creak I couldn't find. Thought it was BB adapter sleeve, it wasn't. Swapped out the rear skewer, creak went away. Went from lower level Campy plastic skewer to a metal black Record....fixed.

[josephr]

sounds like your typical BB30 bearing creak....usually your LBS will pop out the bearings and regrease the insert face, re-install bearings...takes a good shop 15 minutes.

Permanent solution is a Wheels MFG adapting bottom bracket with outboard bearings. May not be able to use your sweet SISL crank anymore though, but then you get to switch to a very smooth Shimano crank.

[Jcgill]

I know you said its in the drivetrain, but my stem pinch bolts were a little loose on my 2011 Caad 10 and that made a creak when putting power into the pedals as i would rock the bars with my arms at the same time. Might be worth a look.

[bitpuddle]

Originally Posted by Jcgill

I know you said its in the drivetrain, but my stem pinch bolts were a little loose on my 2011 Caad 10 and that made a creak when putting power into the pedals as i would rock the bars with my arms at the same time. Might be worth a look.

Definitely eliminate the easy stuff. Pull the stem and take the opportunity to clean/grease the headset.

Pull the seat post and clean/grease. Light grease on saddle rails, clean/grease the post bolts.

I had good luck with a CAAD BB30. The aluminum bottom bracket is a relatively stable press fit platform.

[NHAero]

Some questions based on what folks have posted:
- If it's the BB30, does it make sense that the creak goes away when I pedal harder?
- Don't think it's in the bars and stem - standing up and pedaling harder and putting more force on the bars, the creak stops
- Have already greased the seat rails and seatpost, but will look again - less force on the seat perhaps when pedaling harder
- Will definitely look at the QR skewers - both are metal Bontragers, can swap out for some 9 speed Ultegras
- I think I should pull the chainrings and grease everything and re-install.
- The crank is a SRAM Force carbon crank, if that's useful data, and I'm running Eggbeaters. No pedal washers.

Thanks very much!

[shovelhd]

Originally Posted by NHAero

Some questions based on what folks have posted:
- If it's the BB30, does it make sense that the creak goes away when I pedal harder?
- Don't think it's in the bars and stem - standing up and pedaling harder and putting more force on the bars, the creak stops
- Have already greased the seat rails and seatpost, but will look again - less force on the seat perhaps when pedaling harder
- Will definitely look at the QR skewers - both are metal Bontragers, can swap out for some 9 speed Ultegras
- I think I should pull the chainrings and grease everything and re-install.
- The crank is a SRAM Force carbon crank, if that's useful data, and I'm running Eggbeaters. No pedal washers.

Thanks very much!

BB30 can creak that way. I'd try the other stuff first before pulling the crank. BTW, is your Force GXP with adapters or BB30?

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by NHAero

My 2011 CAAD10 creaks. It's definitely drivetrain - stops completely when I stop pedaling. It's not the cleats or pedals - I swapped out to flats and tried that but the creak is still there. One more piece of data - when I push hard on the pedals, still seated, the creaking stops. So say I'm pedaling along at 125W and it creaks, but when I double my effort it stops.

Ideas?

Thanks

ride w/o cycling shoes
swap pedals(done these)
swap rear wheel
swap front wheel

sitting? standing?

noise are the things of the devil.

[jensenn]

i also have a caad10 and have had multiple types of creaks. its my race bike and i don't baby it one bit so i expect them to come sooner or later. creak culprits have been by saddle clamps, seatpost, stem, top cap, pedals, and loose bolts on the drivetrain but surprisingly never from bottom bracket.

[NHAero]

All below are done. Swapped to flat pedals and shoes, no change. Got a new pair of wheels from a guy in Boulder, no creak change (but a pretty sharp pair of wheels, and a pound off the bike).

Sitting it creaks until I pedal hard, standing the creak goes away.


[QUOTE=oldpotatoe;2190173
ride w/o cycling shoes
swap pedals(done these)
swap rear wheel
swap front wheel

sitting? standing?

noise are the things of the devil.[/QUOTE]