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  #1  
Old 08-28-2017, 04:45 PM
TronnyJenkins TronnyJenkins is offline
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Almost all the glue is off these wheels...

If I don't know what brand of cement was last used on these wheels, do I need to get every last bit of glue off?
I've used a heat gun to good success for the last couple of hours, but I dunno how long it would take me to scrub every last bit of glue off with acetone... the acetone doesn't seem to be touching it that much.

Zipp 202 (10sp), plan to use Conti Carbon Cement (black tube), Conti Giro tires.
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Old 08-28-2017, 05:10 PM
11.4 11.4 is offline
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What color is the glue? Whitish milky? Yellowish clear? Pink? We can usually narrow it down.

Most glues just need to have the solvent work their way through the glue layer. Acetone is one of the safest and cleanest -- it can damage decals but on newer rims it takes quite a lot of abuse to affect the resins in the carbon. Acetone has two advantages: it cleans off without leaving oily residues (which inhibit the next glue job, and are typical of many solvents such as kerosene, diesel, white spirits, and so on) and it evaporates fast so it doesn't hang around enough to do much damage. But since it evaporates so fast, you either want to cover it somehow or you need to keep applying it until it soaks through, or both. I've been experimenting lately with putting the wheel in a truing stand, spinning it, and painting acetone on with a brush. Use a fairly good sized 3 or 4" cheap brush that will hold a decent amount of acetone. The glue will mess the brush up and the acetone will make the brush bristles fall out in time, so don't buy expensive. After you've done this a few minutes and the glue is feeling nice and sticky, just take a piece of gaffers' tape or even clear plastic packing tape and cover the tire bed on the rim. It doesn't have to be perfect and use some that's wider than the tire bed so you can get it on quickly. Then just leave it for an hour. It keeps the acetone from evaporating completely. Once you're that far, another coat or two of acetone will make the stuff sloppy enough. I've used scorps, filed down screwdrivers, you name it. If the glue is really soft, I just get the green Scotchbrite pads (harsher the better, but don't get ones with sponge attached and don't get ones with carbide grit), scrub hard, and throw them away. Wasteful, I know. The other alternative is to buy some galvanized electrical conduit, cut some one-foot sections, pop a crutch tip over one end and use the rough open end to slide along the tire bed and scrape up the glue. Instead of cleaning it when it gets unusable, just cut off the last two inches and keep going. Works well.

This has been covered in dozens of long threads. If you go over to Weight Weenies, there's a sticky thread that must be a few hundred pages long by now, all about gluing tubulars. It's worth the read.
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Old 08-28-2017, 05:27 PM
rnhood rnhood is offline
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This reminds me of why I like clinchers so much.
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Old 08-28-2017, 05:57 PM
chiasticon chiasticon is offline
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11.4: nice suggestion with the acetone/tape deal. hadn't tried that one.

OP: when I get a new (used) wheelset with glue on it, I prefer to pull all the old glue off. for one, because I'm not 100% sure what they used and how it'll mix with what I'm using. and for two, so I can inspect the rim better (especially if carbon).

my most successful approach is a mixture of heat and either DeSolvIt Contractor's Solvent ($6 at Drug Mart) or Effetto Mariposa Carogna Remover ($20 via Amazon). first I'll try to get the big stuff off with heat; especially if there's CX tape involved too. if using Contractor's Solvent, I'll soak the rim in that (in a truing stand) then come back a bit later and scrape up what I can with a rag, possibly adding light heat. then soak what's remaining again. repeat until it's clean. if using the Carogna Remover, I'll just coat the glue with a generous amount of that, wait overnight and wipe it up. nine times out of ten that's enough (remember I still hit it with heat first). unless it's super old and nasty. so... the Solvent approach is much cheaper, but more time consuming and messier (and watch your decals).

the only issue with this is the heat and carbon. you have to be SUPER careful there or you'll kill the rims. my approach is to do one section (between two spoke holes) at a time, then spin the rim two about a third of the way around and repeat. never let any section get hotter than you're comfortable touching with your bare hands. if there's no section that's near other totally cold sections (i.e. still hot from previous spins), take a break until they are.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:05 PM
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this reminds me of why i like clinchers so much.
+1
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:18 PM
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+1
Nancy....



note! It's a joke! Don't go all agro!!!
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:28 PM
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Nancy....



note! It's a joke! Don't go all agro!!!
No offence taken......
Seriously I just don't get it. With all the problems with glue or no glue, tires coming off the rim...waaay too much trouble.

I I have ridden tubulars once. They do ride a little better than a good clincher but not worth the hassle.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:38 PM
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No offence taken......
Seriously I just don't get it. With all the problems with glue or no glue, tires coming off the rim...waaay too much trouble.

I I have ridden tubulars once. They do ride a little better than a good clincher but not worth the hassle.
'Worth' is a big word. Don't want to make this a tubie vs clincher debate......but I see no compelling reason to use clinchers.

The 'don't go agro' comment was for another poster here that got his panties in a bunch about it... helmet-on, flac jacket-on!
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:16 AM
Blown Reek Blown Reek is online now
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The 'don't go agro' comment was for another poster here that got his panties in a bunch about it... helmet-on, flac jacket-on!
Dead Man! Good hustle. Nothing gay here.

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Old 08-30-2017, 08:50 AM
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Dead Man! Good hustle. Nothing gay here.

Don't like Boston but love to watch Pedroia..there are some great middle infielders around right now and Dustin is one of the best.
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Old 08-30-2017, 12:26 PM
TronnyJenkins TronnyJenkins is offline
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Tried the acetone slather this morning and the tape, but it still evaporated so quick I couldn't tell much difference...
This is the rim with the most glue remaining. I think I literally have a ball of glue from this set that weighs 1/2 a pound.
I'm tempted to just try adding my Conti glue now, but feel like I'm so close. Any other secret ideas?

I do plan to remove the white fuzzies from my rag.
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Last edited by TronnyJenkins; 08-30-2017 at 12:30 PM.
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  #12  
Old 08-30-2017, 12:39 PM
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superbowlpats superbowlpats is offline
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Looks like my Zipps after I pulled the tubbies off. Nothing worked for me other than a heat gun (yes I've read the warnings).
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Old 08-30-2017, 12:42 PM
TronnyJenkins TronnyJenkins is offline
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Originally Posted by superbowlpats View Post
Looks like my Zipps after I pulled the tubbies off. Nothing worked for me other than a heat gun (yes I've read the warnings).
This is AFTER the heat gun

I guess I'll have to get some non shedding cloth thats tacky enough to grab what's left and bust it back out...
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Old 08-30-2017, 12:46 PM
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I think I used one of those wooden paint stirring sticks which I cut to fit the rim. similar to a tongue depressor. Heat and scrape, heat and scrape. Was a PITA. The glue job was a done by the previous owners of the wheels. I think it took me 45 mins just to get the tire off
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  #15  
Old 08-30-2017, 01:04 PM
chiasticon chiasticon is offline
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Originally Posted by TronnyJenkins View Post
Any other secret ideas?
check your local hardware store/Target/DrugMart for this (below). or Amazon. squirt and and rub it in. saturate the glue. let it soak then for half an hour or so. go back at it with a rag. repeat.

another option is to pour it into a heavy/large clincher tire (like a hybrid one) and soak a section of the rim in it. less messy, but takes longer.

I've not had as much luck with goof off as others are stating above. maybe there are different levels of it...?

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