Campagnolo Proton Wheel Help!

[AJM100]

Hi - does anyone know if the older Protons require proprietary spokes or whether standard spokes can be used to repair or replace a broken spoke. Figured I would ask here first before I go to the LBS as these you don't see everyday.

The Protons I have are the "non-exposed" nipple model. See picture below. Thank you all.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by AJM100

Hi - does anyone know if the older Protons require proprietary spokes or whether standard spokes can be used to repair or replace a broken spoke. Figured I would ask here first before I go to the LBS as these you don't see everyday.

The Protons I have are the "non-exposed" nipple model. See picture below. Thank you all.

As long as you haven't lost the half moon thing at the hub and the rim washer/nipple..sure, use a proper length straight pull spoke.

if the year is what I think it is-

Front-283mm

Rear-RH-282, LH-283mm

But check 'em.

[AJM100]

Thanks so much for the reply. Yes still have both "ends".

Are these rims durable and can they handle a 200lb clydesdale or is the spoke count in the rear just too low. Have not ridden them much yet, and already broke a spoke. Would replacing all spokes in the rear with heavier gauge DB help (assuming that is even possible)?

Or should I just move onto something else? Thanks

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by AJM100

Thanks so much for the reply. Yes still have both "ends".

Are these rims durable and can they handle a 200lb clydesdale or is the spoke count in the rear just too low. Have not ridden them much yet, and already broke a spoke. Would replacing all spokes in the rear with heavier gauge DB help (assuming that is even possible)?

Or should I just move onto something else? Thanks

Broken spokes often mean the rim is 'deformed', making the tension erratic(low), often resulting in broken spokes. New spokes won't do it, no rims available either(another bad news about proprietary wheels)...

I'd say replace the spoke, have a competent wheelbuilder, true, round, dish, tension(with tension meter-if he say's his 'hands know', go elsewhere), and see. I'd say these were pretty burly wheelsouttaabox but not a lot of spokes on a not particularly heavy rim.

[gfk_velo]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Broken spokes often mean the rim is 'deformed', making the tension erratic(low), often resulting in broken spokes. New spokes won't do it, no rims available either(another bad news about proprietary wheels)...

I'd say replace the spoke, have a competent wheelbuilder, true, round, dish, tension(with tension meter-if he say's his 'hands know', go elsewhere), and see. I'd say these were pretty burly wheelsouttaabox but not a lot of spokes on a not particularly heavy rim.

We'd recommend either having the whole affected "side" if it's the rear wheel, or the whole wheel, if it's a front, rebuilt if you are going to use an off-the-shelf straightpull spoke.

If you are able to find the requisite proprietory spoke, you can probably get away with a single spoke replacement but we'd absolutely go with what Old Potatoe says - not many spokes, light-ish rim - you want to be darn sure that the spoke tensions are right and that means a good wheelbuilder using a properly calibrated tensiometer, especially as you indicate your are maybe not the lightest guy in the world (and I don't mean to be at all offensive).

For reference, Campagnolo currently recommend a 240 lb max rider weight for their wheels and these wheels are a very close relative of the current Neutron Ultra wheel, so it's probably a fair assumption that these wheels will be built to a similar spec (AFAIR, Campagnolo didn't specify a rider weight in 2001/2 when these wheels were current).

We'd recommend that if the builder is replacing a single spoke, (s)he takes most of the tension out of the wheel, puts the replacement spoke in, then starts nearly from scratch with the tension and true operation, to get the best possible job.

The issue is that this is an old wheel set, the rim will probably be showing braking surface wear (and so will have lost a bit of rigidity) and the spokes may by now have a degree of elongation - so spoke tensions may be lower than they should be.

You can probably make life easier on the wheel by using a 25c tyre and running a slightly lower pressure and the wheel builder might want to "up" the spoke tensions to the top of the recommended range (around 140 kgf) ... those two things together should give you slightly better durability.

If you go for all new spokes, DT or Sapim D/B would be the best bet - we prefer Sapim as their Race spokes are 18/6 stainless, slightly more supple & higher shear & UT strength than the 18/2 or 18/4 that I think DT use. Again IIRC, Sapim also designed and made the OE spokes for these wheels to Campag's spec, so it's possible that the Race spoke is closer to the original spec than anything else - but that is a real stab in the dark guess - I may be completely wrong.

HTH
Graeme

[ultraman6970]

If spokes can be replaced for regular brands straight pull spokes, then it is possible to change those rims for something else?? They look like are 2 to 1 pattern.

[acorn_user]

Originally Posted by gfk_velo

HTH
Graeme

Thanks for the information on the wheels. PM sent.

[A1CKot]

Originally Posted by ultraman6970

If spokes can be replaced for regular brands straight pull spokes, then it is possible to change those rims for something else?? They look like are 2 to 1 pattern.

If they are like the Nucleon wheels the hubs are 22/24 laced radially front and non drive side. I have a couple pairs of these hubs sitting it a box with all the hardware. Its really hard to find a rim drilled for 22 spokes...

[ultraman6970]

22??? no wonder.