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#1
03-29-2016, 02:08 PM
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Low-cost Action Camera
My recent experiences sharing the road with cars has made me increasingly nervous about dangerous behaviour by all road users due to digital distractions. I'm also a little sensitive about the subject after being run over in the bike lane by a driver who was texting at the time. I'd like to be able to film from the bars, and maybe a rear facing camera as well. I don't need the best HD video, and I'm really not keen in investing a ton of cash in a fancy new camera or cameras. Has anyone used any cheaper/no-name cameras for the bars that worked well? Or is there a GoPro or other brand that has specific older models that are still a safe and reliable investment? Ideally it would be easy to take on and off the bike and swap with other rides.
Thanks in advance, safe riding. 
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#2
03-29-2016, 02:25 PM
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I don't have any specific suggestions, but if you're buying a camera for that type of purpose, I wouldn't cheap out. You've all seen those cheap security cameras they show in the news. Can't make out the person, much less the face. Basically does no good. Buy the best you can.
By the way, I'd be interested in some of the suggestions. I wouldn't mind picking something up myself.
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#3
03-29-2016, 03:11 PM
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Not sure if there is something better out now, but the Mobius Action Cam might work?
http://www.amazon.com/Mobius-Action-.../dp/B00DP1WYD2 Pros: Tiny and stealth Inexpensive (~$60-70) Open Source - powered by RC hobby enthusiasts = frequent firmware upgrades See here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1904559 Quality on par to similarly specced GoPRos (at least it was 2 yrs ago) Tripod Mount - multiple DIY mounting options Cons: Battery life - 2hrs No visual UI while riding Need to edit settings on a computer (mac or pc though)
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#4
03-29-2016, 03:20 PM
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I am interested in this topic as well. I don't mind spending $$$ for a better camera. The problem I am having is the battery life the action cameras. GoPro, Garmin, and etc. last for about 2 hours. It is just not long enough for a 60 miles ride.
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#7
03-29-2016, 04:20 PM
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I have a Fly6. I can post a video of you want. At 720p you can make out license plates, but I would not want anything less than this. One feature that only the Fly6 has, and I hope to never use, is if the bike tips over and is on the ground for more than a few minutes, it shuts off, preserving the data. The rear light is very good as well. I get about 6 hours of recording in the daylight with the light off, and 4 hours with it on.
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#8
03-29-2016, 04:38 PM
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robbos pal, I have the Garmin Virb, which is discontinued and can be had on eBay for $99 new. The battery life is the limitation - get about 2 hrs 15 mins plus minus. The video quality is more than enough to fulfill what you need. However, based on what you describe personal safety as your main focus, I am inclined to think that Fly6 might be a better option because of its longer battery life and dual purpose, compact size.
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#9
03-29-2016, 05:06 PM
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Low-cost Action Camera
Not sure how much you want to spend but Monoprice looks to have a decent one for $90, shoots 1080p
http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/prod...1170401&cpncd= I've not used one of the cameras but I buy all my cables from them and quality is really good.
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#11
03-29-2016, 08:14 PM
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#12
03-29-2016, 08:48 PM
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what's low cost to you? I have a virb elite that I wouldn't mind getting rid of
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#14
03-29-2016, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
I'm actually buying one, I have the link handy because I'm sitting here thinking about what else I want to get on this order, and the camera is already in my cart. One of the Kinja sites had a "what's the best action cam out there" kind of thing and this was the low buck winner. It was Kinja itself: http://co-op.kinja.com/your-favorite...-yi-1759461934 Battery life would be an issue for a 60 mile ride. I plan on using it as a rear view camera on my bike during crits and training rides (I rarely ride more than 1 hour outside); on a helmet or shoulder/chest mount when I do go-karts; and for recording heel/toe stuff inside the car (I plan on mounting it in the door pocket). For forward use I use a ContourHD. It's easy to turn on and off so, say, on a bike path, I'll turn it off, then turn it back on when I get onto the road. Also, at least with the Contour, if you have a big memory card and record at 720p 30fps, you can get a lot of data, and you can carry a second/third battery. They switch out about as quick as it takes to stop at a regular red light (if you have to dig for your battery, if you have a more accessible way of carrying it you could probably do it in 10 seconds or less). This reminds me, on one of my long rides with a teammate a truck buzzed us pretty close. The plate is super clear, as is the closeness of the buzz. I want to grab just that bit of the clip and post it. Still of the buzz; truck is going about twice our speed, about 40 mph to our 20 mph. It's a legal pass because MA doesn't have a 3 foot law. My teammate is a legislative lawyer so he knows how these things work.  I strongly recommend riding with a camera. I know a LOT of people who had drivers turn left in front of them or hit them while passing. None of them had cameras. The thing about cameras is that they record everything. If the cyclist runs stops signs and red lights all the time, it'll record that also. I think many of my friends ride like that so they don't to record themselves. I stop at stop signs and red lights, and although I'll try to break the speed limit here and there, I otherwise don't break many laws on the bike. I stand by what I do on the bike and I'm not afraid of what my recordings will reveal. I also have front and rear dash cams. Again, I stand by how I drive, but I see many, many, many instances where drivers probably don't want to record themselves driving. What's interesting with the rear cam is that I rarely get tailgated in the daytime. People do their normal tailgate thing (maybe 1 car lengths at 40 mph), sit there for about 20 seconds, realize there's a camera, and now you can't get them closer than about 3 car lengths. Even at red lights I sometimes end up with a solid car length between me and them. If nothing else it shows that people generally try to "cheat" if you will, break the rules, but if they think someone is watching them then they behave how they're expected to behave. This thought going back to the doping thread about how to treat a dope cheater. I used to use a phone as a front cam (Daily Roads app, Android phone). However the LG G2 shutter wasn't as good as the DroidX so I went to a dedicated dashcam. This is off the LG-G2 I think. My wife is driving the red car in front of me, and our very young son is in it. That's why I was following her (in a 5500 lbs vehicle) so that I'd be the first to get hit if something happened from behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0w3XgqBlgo Front cam - this car started pulling forward into the intersection that I was in - the driver didn't stop until I honked. 3 way stop. The cam I use is a Ojocam 801?, it can run at 1080p but I have it set at 720p, 30fps. I'm at the stop sign, it's the other side's turn:  Now it's my turn:  The "premature" acceleration:  Note: none of my cams work effectively at night. They get something, but no license plates and such. The headlights wash out everything else. I imagine they'd work well if I had the light on and it was dark otherwise, like doing a trail ride at night alone.
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#15
03-29-2016, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
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Linear Mode
