Greasing UT BBs?

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by HillDancer

The image you displayed is without context, how about showing a link to the original article?

Here are the official instructions, without the propaganda "nonsense".
http://roguemechanic.typepad.com/rog...ra-torque.html

Image of Campagnolo UT steel bearing box shown below.

Ooooo China, I'm sure that tweaks you.

RM needs to get le clue...I install a BUNCH of these and one thing for sure, if the customer isn't happy, you hear about it..haven't heard anything.

It's like loctite on nipples, a answer to poor wrenching

[thirdgenbird]

Originally Posted by HillDancer

The image you displayed is without context, how about showing a link to the original article?.

The original article is garbage and plenty easy to find.

The fact that he never mentions facing the bb shell in his condemning article is reason enough to tune out. Feel free to listen to him. I would rather listen to the engineers at Campagnolo and the vast number of mechanics that can install the system "click free" without using shims. I on my second frame that is on the bottom of the tolerance and both have been noise free.

[Dave]

Originally Posted by ultraman6970

As for the record UT cups, they are in the 3rd incarnation (sr no idea since are black)... have a set of each color and you can tell the tolerances are more tight in the greenish ones. Is not that much, maybe a mm total between the 2 cups, so if you look at it the non sense the rogue mechanic is talking is not that inaccurate, but again it depends a lot of the bike because the creaks and clanks some experience do not happen with all the bikes.

The wave washer is about 3mm in height, in it's free state and the material it's made of is .63mm thick. That leaves about 1.8mm of space for the washer, but the BB width tolerance is 1.6mm, so there's only .2mm or .008 inch left to play with.

Tighter tolerances won't solve anything. Improvements would have to come from a redesign of the wave washer. It could be made of thicker material, but the cups would need a bit more room between them. New cups come with a matching wave washer, so there could be a new and improved version.

I owned several bikes with the 2009 model cups and never had any problems.

[jkaber]

but I like to think I know what I'm doing when it comes to bike fixing. My Moots has a 68.4 mm BB shell. My Campy Record cranks/bb pop...alot under power. I cant stand it. Turns out I have a lot of side to side play! According to most of the forums, I'm doing something wrong. Hmmm..replaced the BB cups several times, Super Record, Record, dont matter, play is still there. I added a Rogue Mechanic 0.5mm shim to the non drive cup, kept the wavy washer problem solved. I don't like it...but that is what I had to do. I've tried the tons of grease method...and it worked...for one ride. So, even with the correct size BB shell, some of us are having problems with UT cranks.

[Hindmost]

I had followed some of the Ultra Torque discussions with minor amusement. I had run Ultra Torque on a couple of bikes for several years without any clicking, ticking, or knocking issues.

Then about 8 weeks ago I put a new 11 speed Chorus crankset on a bike on which I had successfully been running a first generation 10 speed crankset and cups.

Clicks, ticks, knocks--I went through: cranks, chain rings, cup installation, wavy washer, chain, pedals, headset, seatpost, hubs front and rear, cassette, quick releases--couldn't resolve the noises. When manipulated, the crank had that noticeable side to side shift.

Last night I reread this thread and realized I had some new "green" cups sitting on the work bench. Installed them this morning. Ahhhh......finally! What a pleasure to ride again.

Now about that cleat noise...

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by akelman

Old Potatoe recommends liberally greasing not only the threads but also inside the cups of UT bottom brackets, yes? I found one thread that seems to indicate as much, but it's not as crystal clear as I'd like. Thanks.

Yes and yes. Hirth fitting, bolt, threads, bb threads, cups, etc.

[cdn_bacon]

ok so I'm renewing this....

I get the grease part...

My question is what type? I use white Lithium on everything. Any other choices?

[ultraman6970]

I use lithium too, but depends a lot of the viscosity of the grease you know.

Obviously u dont want that car grease that is brown, that thing is way too heavy you know.

THe reason I talk about the viscosity of the grease is because you have some lithium greases that are like water, really bad stuff.... i got one tube from home depot like a month ago, the color was kind'a pinkish, felt like cream for the face. Bad bad bad... you apply some pressure to it and is gone from the parts really bad stuff, and pretty much a lot of the lithium I can get here in the stores is similar.

For example this one is excellent, gonna have to buy it at the internet because nobody is selling around here. The tube last me like 4 years, feels a lot like the campagnolo one, really sticky and soft to the touch, stays in the parts specially in the BBs. A lot cheaper than the green or blue from park.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...id=54767954584


The one I dont recommend at all is this one... big no no.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraLube...0307/203919366