#46
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#47
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If its not flamable....its not lube. Thats our moto at the shop. Prolink Extreme has been a favorite as of late. I like it even more than the original.
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#48
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Now that it has been, get the damn Finish Line Wet Ceramic Lube, use it as I recommended and you won't go back!
__________________
I'm riding to promote awareness of my riding |
#49
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it worked well for me
I used paraffin wax for several years back maybe 20 or so years ago. I liked it better than anything else I've used before or since. What I liked was that it was very clean and I never got chain tattoos when my leg brushed up against it. Much cleaner than anything else. What I didn't like about it was the complication of applying it. I had a double boiler in which the lower pan filled with water over the stove melted the wax in the top pan. One of the secrets to application was to leave the chain in the melted wax long enough so the chain itself came up to the wax temperature. That way when I lifted it out the hot wax would run off the chain instead of clumping to it. A few paper towel wipes and the excess was gone and ready to install.
I typically got 800 to 1000 miles before I needed to reapply wax. I knew when it would start to get noisy. This would be greatly cut short if I got caught in pouring rain. I seldom rode my good bike in the rain anyway. Of course I always used a chain link that allowed easy chain removal and reinstallation. The problem I found was that sometimes at the end of the wax's milage I didn't have time to rewax it before a ride so I would apply some traditional lubricant. Then if I wanted to apply wax again I had to clean the chain of the new lubricant and I didn't want to be bothered so I just left it. I should add that some other lubricants require some complicated application techniques too. Primarily the chain has to be really clean and I'd have to put it in my ultra sonic cleaner several times with new cleaner. |
#50
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If anyone else posted the above, I would question their veracity. IMO, you are more trusted than Frank Bruno! Will try it once more, using your technique. |
#51
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My guess is VeloNews will be publishing a rebuttal from the folks at ProGold! Even if the "metal conditioner" claim is marketing nonsense, I'll still use ProLink - it works fine as far I can tell.
I used to try every new lube available in search of the holy grail of a perfectly clean, quiet and long-lasting drivetrain. I've given up for the most part.. http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/...progold_282854 |
#52
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#53
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I posted my Chain-L review here: http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=2208
__________________
GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything |
#54
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I've been testing different lubes (sounds like several of us) after I had a conversation with my buddy about this subject. I'm a clean drivetrain freak so I found his method interesting.
I'd been using Chain-L which is OK (changed from Rock 'n Roll...too wet) . It is thick and smells funny but if you apply it as they recommend and wipe the devil off of your chain after you ride, it lasts a long time and is fairly, but not squeaky, clean. I reapplied after about 1k miles just because I was paranoid. My buddy was using a wax/graphite home brew that he liked a lot. Fairly easy to apply, kept the drive train clean, long mileage, etc. The technique surfaced around 2009 in a Bicycling thread here: (it's down a way on the page, Garth is the main character.) http://forums.bicycling.com/eve/foru...7/m/1941016826 The logic of adding graphite appealed to me so I tried this on a new chain and I liked the result, but it's a hassle to remove the chain and dip it. There is some clean up required as well. This mixture is black so I cleaned off the side links and poked out the hollow pins. After that, any excess would really just fall off after I rode a bit. Really dry and clean. The problem I had was that I couldn't tell how long it was lasting. So I rewaxed after 500 miles out of paranoia. I actually got comments on how clean I was keeping my drivetrain from my buddies. I liked this result but when I got into a time pinch and felt like I needed to rewax, I just did a quick link-by-link touch up with Chain-L over the wax/graphite and I was in good shape. Trouble is that if I decide to go back to the wax, I'll need to remove the chain (I use quick links but still...) thoroughly clean it, and then wax if I want it back to new. Plus obviouysly clean the chainwheels and cassette just to get squeaky clean. Still thinking about it.
__________________
Not slow...not fast...half-fast |
#55
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used to do the whole silly paraffin ritual...
take the chain off, clean in solvent, wash with hot, soapy water, dry in oven, melt wax, dip in wax, wipe off excess wax...repeat every 100 miles. bunch of BS, imo. after years of using Triflow (smells great, doesn't last for crap) and a few name brand lubes that were nothing special, I tried Chain-L. the stuff is great. have been tracking my lube intervals...best is 785 miles, averaging ~650 miles. produces the quietest drive-train ever...buttery smooth, too. |
#56
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Anyone here tried Lilly Lube? http://lillylube.com/
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#57
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I switched from chain L to NFS chain lube. Can't be happier.
__________________
www.performancesci.com - Performance through science |
#58
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I was a Prolink guy, but DA 7900 chain was just too clacky with it, so went with Chain-L. It works great and quiets everything down but is a process to get on properly and your rear wheel will be spritzed with oil for a few rides. I just recently switched to DA 9070 and the chain is dramatically quieter, so I'm hoping to go back to (much easier to use) Prolink.
All that said, any lube will work fine as long as you use it; a bike chain is a pretty low stress environment for any lube to handle. |
#59
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Anyone tried this stuff?
Boesheild T-9: http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/bicycles/ If you can believe their poop sheet, sounds like good stuff: "Boeshield T-9® was developed and licensed by The Boeing Company to fill their need for a superior lubricant/protectant. The formulation, based on a unique combination of solvents and waxes, is designed to penetrate metal pores and dissolve minor corrosion, then leave a resilient waxy coating that lasts for many months. We began by successfully introducing Boeshield T-9® to the tough saltwater marine market for lubricating and protecting all metals. It works well on engines and deck hardware as well as electronics, batteries and wiring connections. It is non-conductive and will not cause short circuits. For bicycle chains, T-9® has proven to be a tough, long lasting waterproof lubricant. Our sales keep growing every year despite many competitors."
__________________
Not slow...not fast...half-fast |
#60
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