#16
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For the specific bike I'm talking about, the riding rules are: if I can roll on it, I will ride it.
It's used for Brevets and off road light touring and gravel roads and also for road riding. I do not race and rarely ride in a tight peloton. The bar should also have room for Swift Paloma bag... maybe a 46mm Salsa Cowbell 3 is not a bad idea :-) |
#17
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Quote:
Last edited by dcama5; 07-02-2015 at 06:26 PM. |
#18
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Most bars are measured from the ends, either C-C or E-E as mentioned above. Regarding flaring bars, I'd say use the measurement that best fits where you spend most of your time placing your hands. If you spend most of the time on the hoods, then you're going to need a wider flared bar than a standard bar to get your hands in the right place.
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#19
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I am an advocate of the droopy shoulder, arms hanging from the shoulder sockets no weight on the hands method with regards to how the handlebars are used. So with a 4-6cm spread between narrowest to widest bar, it won't make all that much difference with what any rider can adapt to. IMO.
If there's weight being pressed into the bars, that's different. Riding this way, especially on the descents, is a lotta work and twitchy handling to boot. When there is funky stuff like this going on, all bets are off for how to choose a bar. Because when the bars are incorrectly used as a weight-bearing platform, whatever feels most stable, or comfortable, is all that counts. Often results in the use of a wider bar - splays the arms out and stabilizes the torso. It isn't a great, or correct, way to ride but that is the way it is for many. Riding like this just seems like a lotta work and it makes bars even more important than they really need to be. |
#20
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I recall that Armstrong changed to wider bars at one point, claiming that they aided his breathing. It seemed that this sparked some of the trend that ensued. |
#21
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I'm on day 2 of going to a narrower bar (40cm) and I'm so much more comfortable. I also feel much more stable for some reason. |
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roadbar |
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