How low can you slam a Cinelli 1A?

[TronnyJenkins]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Remember during this journey, the XA you have is probably 26.4mm hbar clamp, the 'new' production stems are 26mm..

Indeed it is- I plan to change bars as well since it looks like a stem change is easiest. These not-quite-40 64-40s aren't doing it for me.

Originally Posted by wallymann

if you're ok with removing metal, you can take a half-round file to the inside of the HS top-nut and open up enough space to allow the stem to slide down further. of course if the headset has seals in that top-nut, maybe not a good idea!

these days i run 3ttt quill stems exclusively so i can slam with impunity.

Mine does have seals
Sounds like I may be going the 3ttt route as well- I was able to easily slam the stem on my 3ttt equipped bike.

[drewellison]

Aren't Nitto quill stems 72 degrees? For most HT angles, it goes downhill.

[merckx]

Originally Posted by drewellison

Aren't Nitto quill stems 72 degrees? For most HT angles, it goes downhill.

71 degrees. It goes downhill faster.

[dddd]

I took this one to the limits by modifying the top nut and even adding a deep relief radius to the top-front of the inside of the end of the steerer. I gained at least 13mm in terms of handlebar drop. The original bars were 25.4mm clamp, so I wanted to stick with the stem that was on the bike when I bought it.


First I removed a threaded lockring, then cut down the steerer so I still had about five threads for the locknut to grip.
I then fabricated an open-top, shortened locknut which adjusted down flush with the end of the steerer.
Finally, I notched the steerer with a deep but gentle 3d radius in front, which conformed to the curvature of the stem's generous transition radius out to the extension.
I used waterproof grease on the threads and quill to preclude water entry with the unsealed and open-top "shorty" headset locknut.

Big difference in how the bike looks and feels, it's just about perfect and the bike looks radical now! This stem does have some drop angle to it, because of the headtube angle of the frame it is mounted to. It's another really big bike that I have been able to make into a comfortable rider for spirited foothills rides, each one requires a different "recipe" depending on the particulars of dimensions and angles and on what parts it comes with.

Here's the before, during and after:

[dddd]

Here are my other successful adaptations of really big bikes (I'm only 5'9 but thankfully longer-legged). Most required only small adjustments and/or stem and/or seatpost changes.
These are all comfortable for me on "faster" 2-4hr rides.
They are hella-cheap Craigslist finds for the most part, the big bikes being so hard for people to sell quickly:

[PWong87]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Remember during this journey, the XA you have is probably 26.4mm hbar clamp, the 'new' production stems are 26mm..

I learned this the hardware the other day. Tried to install some Noodles which are 26.0...

[dddd]

You can buy a shim for reducing from 26.0 to 25.4, I bet that would work fine in an old Cinelli stem for 25.8/26.0 handlebars.

[TronnyJenkins]

Originally Posted by dddd

You can buy a shim for reducing from 26.0 to 25.4, I bet that would work fine in an old Cinelli stem for 25.8/26.0 handlebars.

Thanks for the method and pics.
Especially love that Ciocc.

[dddd]

I had to put a bid in on the Ciocc when I found out that it was made from the uncommon Columbus MiniMAX tubing, which is a smaller-diameter tubing with the same super-thin wall thickness as the original Columbus MAX.
The frame's chrome, fillet-brazing, bi-axial tubing and the fact that (at 140lbs) this tubing was made for me, I pretty much had to have it!
The seller was a veteran professional BMX racer in the East Bay area, so I had nearly a 2-hour drive to get this one.