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  #16  
Old 10-18-2016, 06:06 PM
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Ive been using locking nipples lately too. I still go with boiled linseed oil for spoke lube; no reason for me to use anything else. My most recent set of wheels built with sapim locking nips, linseed oil and h+son tb14 rims has survived some brutal gravel rides on very rough " roads" and are still perfectly true- so im confident in my methodology.
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  #17  
Old 10-18-2016, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony T View Post
Is 'spoke prep' used when using Sapim Secure lock?
No, Sapim Secure lock is a mechanical lock. They dimple the threads from the outside which pinches them increases friction.
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  #18  
Old 10-19-2016, 05:37 AM
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That's where there isn't a real consensus. I've bumped tension up a bit once tire was installed on my wheels. I've also started using a thread locker (mechanical from Sapim Secure lock or DT Pro Lock) more often. It's too easy to have NDS spokes go slack with the low tension ratio and tension drop when tires are installed.
I've just decided to use Sapim's version of thread lock nipps on all my wheels, front and back, both sides. SecureLock nipps, little dent in side..not a huge fan of DT chemical lock. I still use boiled linseed oil between spoke and nipp...well cuz I'm an 'old dog'....
Should be mentioned, DT says no lube between spoke and nipp for their chemical theadlock nipps.
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  #19  
Old 10-19-2016, 08:13 PM
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Where do you guys source your wheel components?
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  #20  
Old 10-19-2016, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
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Where do you guys source your wheel components?
The DIY builder can find a lot of great components at www.bikehubstore.com



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  #21  
Old 10-20-2016, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
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Where do you guys source your wheel components?
BikeHub Store
Fairwheel
Wheelbuilder.com

Others..kinda just google what you are looking for, 'Sapim spokes', type search.
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  #22  
Old 10-20-2016, 09:10 AM
ColonelJLloyd ColonelJLloyd is offline
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Where do you guys source your wheel components?
I buy the majority of my spokes from a good dude named Lee; have for years. I just send him an email with what I need, he sends me a PayPal invoice and they're in the mail in a day or so. I order exactly what I want (he uses a Phil Wood cutter/threader) and they've always been spot on. PM me for his email. Silver Sapim Race are something like $.46 and brass nips $.06.

He does have an eBay store, but I can't find it right now.

Last edited by ColonelJLloyd; 10-20-2016 at 09:15 AM.
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  #23  
Old 10-20-2016, 09:18 AM
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For just a few spokes (for repair) , I use http://smartbikeparts.com
They also have other components.
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  #24  
Old 10-20-2016, 09:22 AM
ColonelJLloyd ColonelJLloyd is offline
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For just a few spokes (for repair) , I use http://smartbikeparts.com
They also have other components.
To that end, whenever I buy spokes for a new build I buy 1-2 extra spokes in each length requested.
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  #25  
Old 10-21-2016, 10:33 AM
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Is there a range that the non-drive side tension (for 11speed) should be when compared to the drive side? For example, if I'm getting 120kfg on the drive side and 50kfg on the non drive side, is this variance considered typical?
(my guess is that there is no 'typical' due to variances in rim and spoke manufactures)
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  #26  
Old 10-21-2016, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony T View Post
Is there a range that the non-drive side tension (for 11speed) should be when compared to the drive side? For example, if I'm getting 120kfg on the drive side and 50kfg on the non drive side, is this variance considered typical?
(my guess is that there is no 'typical' due to variances in rim and spoke manufactures)
If the RH side is proper tension, the wheel is dished and round, the LH side kinda takes care of itself. If you feel LH side too low, no real way to 'fix' it w/o making the RH side too high..but 120/50 is very typical.
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  #27  
Old 10-21-2016, 11:42 AM
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking, thanks.
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  #28  
Old 10-21-2016, 02:34 PM
Mark McM Mark McM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony T View Post
Is there a range that the non-drive side tension (for 11speed) should be when compared to the drive side? For example, if I'm getting 120kfg on the drive side and 50kfg on the non drive side, is this variance considered typical?
(my guess is that there is no 'typical' due to variances in rim and spoke manufactures)
The ratio of right/left tension is determined purely by geometry - i.e. the dimensions of the hub and rim. And of these two components, the hub flange offsets are the dominant factor. Your tension ratio is 2.4:1 (120Kgf/50kgf). This is exactly what you'd expect to see if the flange offsets were 16mm Right/ 38 mm Left (38/16 = 2.38). Different hubs will have different flange offset, so the tension ratios will be different, but 16mm/38mm would be typical for an 11spd wheel.
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  #29  
Old 10-21-2016, 06:52 PM
yashcha yashcha is offline
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Thank you guys, refrenced this thread and built a killer wheelset last night. archetype/sapim race/bikehubstore for around $300, 1650 grams. Took me about 2 hours to build up, and tension/roundness/trueness looks perfect.
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  #30  
Old 10-21-2016, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by yashcha View Post
Thank you guys, refrenced this thread and built a killer wheelset last night. archetype/sapim race/bikehubstore for around $300, 1650 grams. Took me about 2 hours to build up, and tension/roundness/trueness looks perfect.
Nice wheels. What Hubs?

.

Last edited by Tony T; 10-21-2016 at 07:59 PM.
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