How to read geometry chart

[Gummee]

Originally Posted by dave thompson

Stand over height is probably the last number I look at when considering a frame, it's the least important.

This

ESPECIALLY for those of us with short legs and a longer torso.

Get the TT that fits and ignore standover. You don't fall straight down onto the TT except in 'once in a million' falls.

My $.02 from 30 years of riding bikes with the right TT but not so much in the standover department

M

[charliedid]

It's important to not look at any one number in isolation. You need to look at the entire bike to make a judgement regarding fit.

[CampyorBust]

ETT matters a great deal to me, stand over not so much. Head angle and seat tube angle also play an effective role in my fit. I once bought a bike based on ETT paying no attention to STA and HTA, it fit a little different than I was expecting. I also use my lithometer app to check for midichlorians, anything more 2.5 courics and I don’t bother.

[Mark McM]

Like the others have said, the place to start when evaluating frame fit is the Stack and Reach, which largely control the range of position when we are riding, SOH only comes into play when we are standing - and after all, we buy a bike for riding, not for standing.

On the other hand, I disagree with those who say that SOH is not important at all. While it may hardly have any affect on a road bike, it can be important for an MTB (particularly a long travel full suspension MTB). On an MTB, we can't always control when, where and how we dismount, so it is good to have some clearance so the bike doesn't get in the way. (Of course I never "fall off" my MTB - but I do frequently have "spontaneous dismounts".)

[parris]

Plandy I'm just curious. What part of not being able to be on a 52 are you dealing with? Are things close "down there" ? Is the bike(s) too much of a stretch to the bars when riding? Or are there issues getting the saddle in a good place?

[juanj]

For me, the most important numbers are the stack and the reach (esp. reach), as several have noted. However, I would not discount the importance of SOH, since you want to be comfortable when, for example, waiting at a stop light.

Here's a stack/reach calculator that I've found useful: http://www.bikegeo.net. It allows you to input stem length and spacer heights, and allows you to compare three bikes. Start with the measurements of a bike you already own, then input the measurements of a bike you are interested in, add stem/spacers, and you'll have a visual aid for how the bikes compare. (Disclaimer, not my site, so I hope it works as intended!)

[Ralph]

If I were sizing a bike to you.....would want to know reach and saddle to bar drop you want to ride with. Then go from there for the other characteristics you want in frame.

[cmg]

take the time to understand stack and reach. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfx3LqsCFSA, http://fitwerx.com/stack-and-reach/, http://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/C...er_One_95.html, http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/view...php?t=12951776, http://www.triathlete.com/2015/03/ge...xplained_72996.

Do you have a frame that works for you? pull up it's geometry chart and compare the S&R of it to what your thinking about. if it doesnt have the S&R listed you can put the geometry known into a calculator. their are online calculators. you can take the stack number and use it as an ultimate height limit to compare. Compare your size on the 2 charts provided. where do you think you would fit?