Feb 2024 Return of the endless 2022 Crux Headset Problem

[proletariandan]

February 2024 Update: The headset now seems to be coming loose every time I ride. As far as I can tell, the stem must be slipping. It is a newer EA70 stem, torqued to 5NM on both bolts.

It is nice and quiet after readjusting the pre-load (to 5nm, as specified by S) and torquing the stem bolts but after a couple of big climbs, it starts to make noise, and it just gets louder and louder as the headset gets slightly looser. If I stop and pull/push on the bars, I can feel play.

Specialized says not to use friction paste on the steerer - maybe I should just ignore that? I have Motorex friction paste, which is much less gritty than others like Park that I've used.

Not sure what else to do here other than to replace the stem. I could try to take to a Specialized shop but the problem will be hard for them to reproduce if they don't take it out and ride it properly.


Latest Update Aug 2023: A Cane Creek 40 IS42 replacement upper seems to have fixed the issue - works exactly as every other headset I've had. Best $30 I've spent in a long time. One concern is that there is a ~1mm gap between the cover and the headtube - see picture below. Is this normal? Photo:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SfMTk5wfXVMDKGVz6

Previous updates:

Not resolved after all, I've been dealing with headset noise for the last year. I'm going to try to call Spec or take this to a shop but figured I would post here again in case I don't get help elsewhere.

Essentially, even when the headset is properly pre-loaded (eg there is no play when holding the brake and rocking the front wheel), there is play (a sort of knocking) if I lift up the handlebars and push them hard on the ground. This only goes away if I tighten the top-cap so much that the headset binds completely. It almost seems like something is missing but all of the parts are there, as far as I can tell.

I have assembled and disassembled the headset a few times in the past few months and replaced the bottom bearing, which had no impact.

Any suggestions?

Hey y'all,

Just reassembling my 2022 Crux after packing it for a trip (that didn't happen). After torquing the top cap, the headset is completely bound by 5nm and even 2nm feels a hair too tight.

I was initially surprised by Specialized's recommendation to torque the top cap bolt to 5Nm but was previously having issues with play before reading the manual and properly torquing.

"Install the headset cover, spacers and stem, followed by the top cap and bolt. Using a 4 mm Hex key, torque the bolt to 44 in-lbf / 5.0 Nm."

Manual here - page 15 (18 actually).

https://media.specialized.com/suppor...AL_ENGLISH.pdf

What could I have done wrong/what could have gone wrong? Not missing any pieces, don't have anything upside-down...

Thanks,
Dan

[DRietz]

I've never adjusted a headset with a torque wrench. That 5nm spec is likely the max torque the bolt can take.

Adjust out the play with a normal allen, torque the stem bolts to 5nm.

[proletariandan]

Originally Posted by DRietz

I've never adjusted a headset with a torque wrench. That 5nm spec is likely the max torque the bolt can take.

Adjust out the play with a normal allen, torque the stem bolts to 5nm.

That's what I did initially - before reading the manual - and the headset quickly developed play.

"Install the headset cover, spacers and stem, followed by the top cap and bolt. Using a 4 mm Hex key, torque the bolt to 44 in-lbf / 5.0 Nm."

[fa63]

You probably don't have enough space between the top of the stem and the top of the expander plug, so the top cap is bottoming out before you can apply a sufficient amount of preload. Try putting a 2mm or 5mm spacer above the stem and see if that solves it.

[DRietz]

Originally Posted by proletariandan

That's what I did initially - before reading the manual - and the headset quickly developed play.

Well, then you adjust it again

[DRietz]

Originally Posted by fa63

You probably don't have enough space between the top of the stem and the top of the expander plug, so the top cap is bottoming out before you can apply a sufficient amount of preload. Try putting a 2mm or 5mm spacer above the stem and see if that solves it.

This doesn't seem to be the case, because he can get the headset to bind above 2nm.

Sometimes, the bearings just aren't quite seated when everything is together and preloaded "properly" initially.

When I'm adjusting headsets, I'll often adjust out the play, then lift and drop the front end a few times, check for more play, adjust as necessary, then tighten the stem bolts.

[catchourbreath]

Could also be a shim needed below the top headset cover and the frame/bearing/wedge. I had some discourse with a prior employer about torque values on a top cap and they implied it was a max and also they would be removed eventually.

[fa63]

You are right, I misread the original post. Probably a case of needing to readjust after things have settled as you mentioned.

Originally Posted by DRietz

This doesn't seem to be the case, because he can get the headset to bind above 2nm.

Sometimes, the bearings just aren't quite seated when everything is together and preloaded "properly" initially.

When I'm adjusting headsets, I'll often adjust out the play, then lift and drop the front end a few times, check for more play, adjust as necessary, then tighten the stem bolts.

[proletariandan]

It rode fine around the block, I thought there must have been something special about it since Specialized but it seems more or less like any other drop in headset…

[yetitotheheady]

There is nothing about the 2022+ specialized crux that is any different in adjusting headset preload than any other common headset preload adjustment.

The lower headset bearing dimensions is specific to a few Specialized branded bikes but is not hard to find.

If the headset is binding which I haven't seen on any crux, a .5-1mm micro shim or two could stop binding between the conical shaped bearing cover and the frame. But like I said I've never seen an interference or binding on a crux of any year and I've seen a lot.

It could be the forks expander plug pulling out of the steerer as you try and preload the headset. You can pull the stem top cap and see if the expander plug is sitting flush against the top of the fork steerer tube. It should be easy to see if that's the problem. If there is a gap between the expander plug and top of the fork steerer, loosen the expander so you can drop it all the way into the fork and tighten it so it can't move. Then make a headset adjust like normal. Obviously, if the stem top cap is hitting the top of the fork steerer/expnader plug before you get proper headset preload you will always have play in the headset. a headset spacer above the stem may be needed to allow for proper headset preload.

I hope this makes sense and I'm not "forum explaining" something.

[Dave]

I agree that the headset top cover may need a shim. I've recommended significant top cap torque since my first frame with angular contact bearings. I don't use a torque wrench, but 2nm shouldn't cause binding 5nm seems like a lot. Just be sure that the front fork self-centers after a turn. If not, it's too tight.

[proletariandan]

Originally Posted by Dave

I agree that the headset top cover may need a shim. I've recommended significant top cap torque since my first frame with angular contact bearings. I don't use a torque wrench, but 2nm shouldn't cause binding 5nm seems like a lot. Just be sure that the front fork self-centers after a turn. If not, it's too tight.

I assume y'all mean a shim under the top cap cover?

[catchourbreath]

Are you certain it's not a stem or handlebar problem? Anything been taken apart cleaned/greased or fiber gripped?

[proletariandan]

Originally Posted by catchourbreath

Are you certain it's not a stem or handlebar problem? Anything been taken apart cleaned/greased or fiber gripped?

Hmm, I could try changing the stem - have been meaning to do that anyway. The stem/handlebar are fiber gripped but not the stem/steerer, as Specialized specifically advises against that (I did it at first but then cleaned it off).

Interestingly, when I pick the front end up by the stem and push it down, there isn't a knock, but there is when I pick it up by the bars. Not sure if that is just because the bars are a longer lever on the steerer or because there is a problem at the bar/stem interface. Easton EA70 stem to EC70 bars, installed with proper Top-Lock method, so it seems like they should be a good fit!

[yinzerniner]

Originally Posted by proletariandan

Update Aug 2023: Not resolved after all, I've been dealing with headset noise for the last year. I'm going to try to call Spec or take this to a shop but figured I would post here again in case I don't get help elsewhere.

Essentially, even when the headset is properly pre-loaded (eg there is no play when holding the brake and rocking the front wheel), there is play (a sort of knocking) if I lift up the handlebars and push them hard on the ground. This only goes away if I tighten the top-cap so much that the headset binds completely. It almost seems like something is missing but all of the parts are there, as far as I can tell.

I have assembled and disassembled the headset a few times in the past few months and replaced the bottom bearing, which had no impact.

Any suggestions?

Hey y'all,

Just reassembling my 2022 Crux after packing it for a trip (that didn't happen). After torquing the top cap, the headset is completely bound by 5nm and even 2nm feels a hair too tight.

I was initially surprised by Specialized's recommendation to torque the top cap bolt to 5Nm but was previously having issues with play before reading the manual and properly torquing.

"Install the headset cover, spacers and stem, followed by the top cap and bolt. Using a 4 mm Hex key, torque the bolt to 44 in-lbf / 5.0 Nm."

Manual here - page 15 (18 actually).

https://media.specialized.com/suppor...AL_ENGLISH.pdf

What could I have done wrong/what could have gone wrong? Not missing any pieces, don't have anything upside-down...

Thanks,
Dan

I had this issue with a bike that I built up, and it was due to the interface of the headset top cap, the fork steerer plug and the top of the stem.

Basically, for whatever reason the inside face of the headset top cap (chris king) when mounted flush on top of an Enve stem didn't really play nice with my specialized steerer plug. Even when torquing it down, it still exhibited a bit of play and went loose over the course of a mild ride. So I added a thin spacer between the headset top cap and the stem and that gives the cap a little room between it's shape and the shape of the stem. In other words, instead of the top cap sitting directly on top of the stem, the top cap is pushing against the spacer which is then pushing against the stem.

It probably won't solve your issue but might be worth a try since it's very easy to install/reverse.