CAAD13 BB30 help?

[krooj]

Nuts - I have a PF30 WheelsMfg unit sitting here that I'd just send you for free, but PF30!=BB30a :/

[fa63]

I typically add them such that I have the same chainstay clearance on both sides.

Originally Posted by ridethecliche

Do you both add spacers equally to each side of the crank?

[ridethecliche]

I just bought two of the token threaded BBs on sale so now I just have to hurry up and wait.

Do I need to remove the circlip when installing a threaded BB? I'm guessing that they come right out.

Originally Posted by krooj

Nuts - I have a PF30 WheelsMfg unit sitting here that I'd just send you for free, but PF30!=BB30a :/

Aw man thanks I appreciate it. I could probably have used all the delrin spacers though! 😂

[fa63]

Yes, you need to remove them. They can be a bit tight but shouldn't be a problem with a good set of pliers.

Originally Posted by ridethecliche

Do I need to remove the circlip when installing a threaded BB? I'm guessing that they come right out.

[ridethecliche]

Originally Posted by fa63

Yes, you need to remove them. They can be a bit tight but shouldn't be a problem with a good set of pliers.

Thanks!

I might actually have the correct pliers from working on cars!

[rice rocket]

BB30 cranks are lighter and stiffer (and getting cheap), get a set of Hollowgrams to match your Cannondale.

[ridethecliche]

Originally Posted by rice rocket

BB30 cranks are lighter and stiffer (and getting cheap), get a set of Hollowgrams to match your Cannondale.

Went with a token bb and my shimano ultegra cranks for now. If I can find an inexpensive power meter solution for hollowgrams (4iiii/stages etc) in a 165 crank arm... I'd honestly consider this.

Any recs for which cannondale BB30 cranks to look for? I can likely repurpose the cranks I have now for another incoming project! I'd love to get this bike down to the 16's with pedals and I'm about a pound away from that right now!

I do all my own work and have the tools to work on pressfit/bb30. I took apart the BB30 cranks that came on the bike I'm running now.

[rice rocket]

Stages PM was discounted to $199 for the holidays, but OOS in 165. Maybe they'll come back in stock before the sale is over?

I have a couple NIB, but I was going to return them to Competitive Cyclist since I paid $350...

https://stagescycling.com/en_us/prod...si-power-meter

[ridethecliche]

Bumping this thread to see if anyone can help just a bit more.

I noticed some clicking in the bb area the last couple of rides and it looks like there's some play even with the shimano preload bolt all the way tight.

I'm using the token thread together BB. Is there still a need to use shims with this? None were included with the BB unfortunately...

Just making sure I'm on the right track. I got terrified for a sec that I had stripped the splines but tested things out in a different frame with a regular shimano BB and it was fine. Go figure.

[herb5998]

CAAD 12/13 use BB30a standard compared to the older CAADs, is that the model of Token BB you picked up?

This article has some good background on the quirks related to the BB30a installs on CAAD12/13.

https://www.bbinfinite.com/blogs/new...pitfall-solved

[ridethecliche]

Originally Posted by herb5998

CAAD 12/13 use BB30a standard compared to the older CAADs, is that the model of Token BB you picked up?

This article has some good background on the quirks related to the BB30a installs on CAAD12/13.

https://www.bbinfinite.com/blogs/new...pitfall-solved

Yes.BB30a token ninja thread together bb.

[tctyres]

Originally Posted by glepore

You'll need spacers or wave washers. Its how bb30a works.

+1 BB30a on both CAAD12 and CAAD13. The "a" stands for "asymmetric." There is a BB30 and BB30a. They are not the same, but they use the same bearings.

Originally Posted by ridethecliche

Bumping this thread to see if anyone can help just a bit more.

I noticed some clicking in the bb area the last couple of rides and it looks like there's some play even with the shimano preload bolt all the way tight.

I'm using the token thread together BB. Is there still a need to use shims with this? None were included with the BB unfortunately...

Just making sure I'm on the right track. I got terrified for a sec that I had stripped the splines but tested things out in a different frame with a regular shimano BB and it was fine. Go figure.

You don't "need" to use the shims. It sounds like you will want to space out the crankarm to make sure that is tight. Alternatively, your bearings are shot and you need to replace them.

[ridethecliche]

Originally Posted by tctyres

You don't "need" to use the shims. It sounds like you will want to space out the crankarm to make sure that is tight. Alternatively, your bearings are shot and you need to replace them.

The BB is brand new and spins freely.

The NDS crank arm is not snugging up against the BB which is why I'm wondering about spacers. I was worried that I destroyed my crankarm with improper installation, but it looks like I caught it early... and it wasn't installed incorrectly... I just didn't realize that there was space there since it felt snug when I tightened things up.

I tried a bunch of other NDS arms and all of them had varying degrees of play even with the preload tight!

I had this same issue trying to use an adapter for a giant TCX with shimano crankarms... though I think that was because i needed to get a bit more frame clearance and also even out the q factor since I was using an ultegra NDS 4iiii with a GRX crank (so different Q's).

[tctyres]

Yeah, use the spacers/shims.

[ridethecliche]

Originally Posted by tctyres

Yeah, use the spacers/shims.

Found a local shop I hadn't been to recently that had a bunch of the shimano shims in a box. They just gave me 4 of them so I could have some spares. I popped a 1mm one in there and it's good to go.

I'm glad I took care of this before I ruined my crank arm!