#16
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the advice, everyone. It looks like there are a wide range of opinions. I like 1x on the gravel bike, and if it was for a road bike that I wasn't trying to maintain at a higher speed, 1x might work better. For something I am going to use in TTs, I might be better off with 2x for now.
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
I know I couldn't handle it for the long hours road riding requires. Just the constant "not able to get the exact right gear I want" building up over the hours.
I know this just from riding my 1x MTB. I never miss the front derailleur if I am properly "trail riding" with steep ups and downs and steady power output is something that is never found. But put me on a long flat stretch like a fire road or an old rail bed that is in a narrow grade range and can immediately feel myself not happy with the cadence I'm riding and feeling like I want a gear in between what I actually have. Yes if your riding is really really well defined you could put a tighter cassette in the back to deal with this issue but then you're back to not having the wide range for both climbing & descending & flat. I can ride a wide range of cadences just fine.. but that still doesn't mean I actually want to ride a cadence I find uncomfortable for a long period of time when I am trying to just chill out. I have a 12-50 or 11-50 or something on my MTB, so yes that's really wide range, hard for me to believe a 11-44 or something would be that much better when the baseline for road is/was a 11-23, 11-25, 12-27, 12-29, etc.. Before I had 1X on my MTB I had an 11-32 or something on the old MTB, definitely better on those long monotonous stretches. |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
FWIW, I tried 1x on my road bike a few years ago. I like having a 1:1 low gear, so with a 10-44 cassette and 44t ring, that gave me enough range, but I missed having the 12 and 14t cogs. So I went back to 2x with a 10-33 cassette. And basically the same for gravel - I use a 30-43 and 10-36 combo - I do enough road getting to the gravel that I wanted to tighter cassette. But, I could probably make a 40x10-44 work well enough. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
I use EKAR with 44 9-36 on one of my Road(ish) bikes - it works great and gives me 6 gears between 20-35KM/h, and is like a 53/11 on top.
40 9-36 gives you 7 gears and is close to 50-11 on top - still pretty good |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
I did my first couple triathlons on a road bike with a 50x11-36 1x 10-speed setup. I'm in fairly flat central Ohio, but still use that 36t more than I expected. I now have a dedicated triathlon bike, and left it as a 2x. It just wasn't worth shaving a few hundred grams to give up that range and cadence optimization.
|
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
->ymmv<- Quote:
__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo Last edited by oldpotatoe; 05-15-2024 at 07:29 AM. |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
There's a big difference between a 1/1 ratio like 34/34 and the 30/36 = 0.83/1 that I found inadequate. My 30/38= 0.79/1 and 30/44=0.68 are both lower. The 30/44 allows climbing at 4.3 mph at 80 rpm. The 30/44 is about the same as a 36/52 on a mountain bike.
My other solution is my Cervelo Rouvida with up to 250 watts of continuous power. Just a 100 watt maximum setting easily gets me up that steep climb with a 46/38 or 46/44. I did my regular 52 mile ride with 3600 feet of climbing at 18.3 mph, which about 3 mph faster than normal. I used less than 1% of the battery capacity per mile. It wasn't easier to complete the ride, just a lot faster. It's simple to set how much power the rider applies before the desired additional power limit is reached. I set mine at 170 rider watts with a 100 watt maximum assist. https://fazua.com/en/products/ride-60/ |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
The push to 1x has largely been driven by SRAM which, deserved or not, has a less-than-stellar reputation for front derailleur performance. It's difficult to believe that the former was not influenced (at least somewhat) by the latter.
|
#24
|
|||
|
|||
A friend has a gravel bike ridden on the road. He has a double crank but says he's constantly shifting and trimming the front derailleur and thinks he'd be better served by a 1x drivetrain. Maybe he should change his crank or small chainring to a bigger one as there seemed to be a large tooth difference between the small and big rings.
|
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
"Ugh we can't figure out this blasted FD thing" -Well, why don't we just get rid of the FD? "Brilliant! But how!?" -Just get rid of it and throw a few more gears in the back. Call it lighter and tell people they can control a dropper with the left 'shifter' instead. Say it's progress. "OMG YASSS!" |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
I've logged well over 20,000 miles on several SRAM AXS equipped 2X bikes and had no chain drop problem. With SRAM 1X, both shifters still get used - one for up shifts and the other for down shifts. Still can't be beat when wearing winter gloves.
A 1X bike with a 46/44 wouldn't come close to having enough low gear for my terrain. I have a 30/44 gear ratio available on my 2X bikes. With an ebike, the 46/44 is plenty of low gear. I just go up a steep grade at 6-7mph instead of 4-5mph. |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Last edited by tomato coupe; 05-14-2024 at 01:39 PM. |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
*woosh*
|
#29
|
|||
|
|||
#30
|
|||
|
|||
Personally, I find fewer gears / wider spacing fine for <30 miles. After that, I get annoyed. If where you live is flat enough, it may be that 46x 11-32 could do the whole trick. Where I am, in relatively flat coastal MA, that range is pretty much all of my riding on a ultra-wide double 46/26. I never use the 26 here, just in the hills out west. Commuters are 40x11-32 and 39x11-42 and those work fine for the 9.5 miles. I'll happily ride my 3 speed path racer for a nice flat 30 miles but will get cranky around 40, especially if there's wind.
|
|
|