Centerlock question

[batman1425]

Building a new bike, first one with disc brakes. Installed rotors today, and like an idiot was reading the wrong scale on my beam torque wrench when tightening the lock ring for the rear rotor, got close to 40 ftlbs (thought I was reading the NM scale) when I realized it. Listed spec is 40nm, so I was about 10-15nm over...

Removed the ring, the threads on both the ring and the hub look fine. It threads in and out just fine. Reinstalled to the correct torque no problem. No harm no foul or am I in trouble?

Its one of the bigger diameter lock rings for TA clearance that use a standard outboard BB wrench rather than the cassette tool style. Just want to make sure I'm not in for a catastrophic hub shell failure under braking or something.

[vqdriver]

Any abnormal noises when overtorquing or removing?

[RudAwkning]

The lockring should fail before your hub. If you're worried about it, get a new lockring.

Originally Posted by batman1425

Building a new bike, first one with disc brakes. Installed rotors today, and like an idiot was reading the wrong scale on my beam torque wrench when tightening the lock ring for the rear rotor, got close to 40 ftlbs (thought I was reading the NM scale) when I realized it. Listed spec is 40nm, so I was about 10-15nm over...

Removed the ring, the threads on both the ring and the hub look fine. It threads in and out just fine. Reinstalled to the correct torque no problem. No harm no foul or am I in trouble?

Its one of the bigger diameter lock rings for TA clearance that use a standard BB wrench rather than the cassette tool style. Just want to make sure I'm not in for a catastrophic hub shell failure under braking or something.

[batman1425]

Originally Posted by vqdriver

Any abnormal noises when overtorquing or removing?

Nope. Only reason I stopped is I was scratching my head wondering why it was taking so much work to hit to torque spec. Even when I overshot, it was smooth both in and out. No grinding, cracking, popping, or other noises to speak of. If I hadn't realized it when looking at the scale, probably wouldn't have given it a second thought.

[batman1425]

Originally Posted by RudAwkning

The lockring should fail before your hub. If you're worried about it, get a new lockring.

I have a conventional cassette style shimano lock ring that I can put on that will clear the 12mm TA in the rear if you think theres a reasonable chance I damaged the ring. The wheels came with the larger ones (from HED), just used those because they were already on the wheels.

[RudAwkning]

Originally Posted by batman1425

I have a conventional cassette style shimano lock ring that I can put on that will clear the 12mm TA in the rear if you think theres a reasonable chance I damaged the ring. The wheels came with the larger ones (from HED), just used those because they were already on the wheels.

The larger ones are for 15mm thru axles. If you're running thru axle, you won't be able to get your standard cassette lockring tool between the splines and the axle. If you're using a standard 9mm QR axle, you'll be fine.

[batman1425]

Just installed the standard lock ring- they do fit over a 12mm TA but as you say, not a 15. My cassette lock ring tool fits fine over a 12mm rear. Maybe my tool is thinner than most?


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[batman1425]

The standard lockring threaded on smooth and easy too. Think I got away with one?


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[RudAwkning]

Originally Posted by batman1425

The standard lockring threaded on smooth and easy too. Think I got away with one?


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You should be good...until you're not