#1
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Installing a threadless headset with Park headset press
So I've decided to freshen up one of my old steeds from a one inch threaded fork and headset to a one inch threadless fork and headset. I've been planning on doing this for a few years, but now with the Covid crisis, I have a little more time on my hands.
I've never installed a headset either threaded or threadless before. I managed to get the old threaded headset cups out and the old fork off. I will be installing a new Campy Record threadless (not a hidden set) headset. I bought a Park headset press (the big one) several years ago in anticipation of this job. I finally opened the box yesterday, and the instructions are woefully minimalist. I tried the Park website. It wasn't much better. I've watched a lot of installations on YouTube basically using a long bolt with several flat washers. Seems pretty easy. Unfortunately, I can't find any videos showing how to use the Park press except for an extremely short promotional video put out by Park that was not very helpful. However, most videos show the cups being installed one at a time. The Park instructions seem to suggest you press both upper and lower cups in at the same time. I would feel more comfortable installing one cup at a time, but it is not clear if I can do this with the Park headset press. I think if I turn the guide cups upside down on one end (the end I am not installing the cup) I might be able to do that. Any Park Headset press pros out there? Do you install both cups in one shot? Is it possible to install one side first and then the second? This is a Ti frame if that matters. Thanks for any advice you can provide. Last edited by old_fat_and_slow; 06-21-2020 at 10:48 AM. |
#2
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I do one at a time with my Park headset press. Too much going on with 2 loose cups. Actually i get one well started then start the other as they will both reach their fully seated position.
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#3
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This may not help you, but, I have an Xtools headset press I purchased from Chain Reaction and used it for the first time about month ago. I think it is similar to the Park tool. It did not have instructions but I did watch a couple of videos on Youtube that were not specific to this tool. This press is designed to press both cups at the same time. It was no problem, pretty straight forward to figure out. It also can do different size cups.This was with a 1 1/8" threadless headset, Cane Creek 40. I just greased the insert area of the cups, took my time cranking down the press, and made sure the cups were installing on the level. It was very easy.
I have also done a couple of 1" threaded headsets with the homemade tool I saw on a Rick the Bike Guy video. That was one cup at a time and it took a few tries to get the cups to start on the level. Actually, the first attempt, I thought it was inserting fine, but when it got to the point of being fully inserted into the tube, it was not level. I had to bang it back out and start again. It worked out in the end, just took more time and care. After that experience, I found the Xtools on sale and purchased it, $59. Definitely easier, more efficient than the homemade one. I am a long way from being an adept, efficient mechanic. You can do this. Last edited by DeBike; 06-21-2020 at 10:25 AM. Reason: more info |
#4
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The Park HHP-2 headset press is the best one in my opinion, it offers a ton of leverage and makes this job easy.
I start with the top cup, here are the steps I'd use assuming you've got the HHP-2: 1. Apply a generous amount of grease inside the headtube where the cup will go and to the outside of the upper headset cup. 2. Screw the hex shaft into the handle and drop it through the top of the headset / headtube. 3. Slide the quick release press plate onto the hex shaft. 4. Adjust the headset cup so it is in the orientation you want (if it has logos and such) and so that it is as flat as you can get it. 5. Start turning, stop turning when they headset is fully seated (you'll know, the handles just won't turn). 6. Release QR press plate and repeat step 1. for bottom headset cup. 7. Repeat steps 3-5. If you've got headset cups that the bearings are pressed into you want to avoid any pressure on the bearings during install. In this situation I avoid all the adapters and just leave the upper and lower press plates flat on the headset cups, you won't damage them unless you are going way overboard after seating the headset. |
#5
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Still looking for more advice. Has to be more users out there.
Thanks again. |
#6
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Quote:
I understand being a hands-on visual learner. I have to think if you were in the room watching someone install a headset you'd have it down. Where are you located? Have you installed the crown race? Do you have a setter or is it a split race that can be pushed on? |
#7
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I like putting a piece of painters tape on the headtube to ensure alignment of the logo. Kinda unnecessary if you don't really care anyway.
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#8
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If that's yours, congrats on the new LB!
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#10
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Hmm. no functional difference. You have the top cup in the bottom. Hence the "king" logo upside down. Maybe you were going for that look?
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#11
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I was wonder the same thing.
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#12
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#13
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We have all done it or something like that.
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#14
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What gives? |
#15
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Any press can be used to install both at a time or one at a time.
The biggest thing is to make sure the cups go in square. This is A LOT easier doing cups one at a time. You don't want them to start going in crocked and then straighten out, this will damage the cup and potentially the frame. Doesn't hurt to put a set of calipers to everything and make sure it's all within spec before you start. Use anti seize instead of grease for ti frames. |
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