[Wayne77]

Depends on the level of shine and durability you're after. Default answer would be to follow eBAUMANN's post above. If you want to go a step further see below:

I've done this several times (painted CF frames, bars, seat posts,etc). There's probably a matte clear on the bars now. Don't sand through it, just rough it up thoroughly with 600 grit paper. You'll know if youre sanding into the cf layer if the sanding dust goes from white/gray to black/very dark grey. For the best look and durability I would spray on a black base coat, then a clear which will protect the black from the abuse the bars will take. This is assuming you want a nice gloss black. If not, then just get a single stage matte black paint (meaning you don't need a clear coat over the top of it), spray the exposed area and be done with it. For bars I don't think you need to pay the extra $$$ for a high-solids catalyzed clear. I'd go to an auto parts store and get a rattle can black base coat, as well as a good lacquer clear coat, also in a rattle can. **For frames I pay the extra $$$ for 2K automotive clear, where you mix the clear with a catalyst and a reducer...its much much more durable than a regular clear coat.

Its very easy to spray an even base coat...do a few very light coats if you're worried. Base coat paint is very thin, dries pretty quick, and is pretty forgiving. You REALLY have to overdo it to get runs. Let that dry 30 min (follow instructions for how long to wait until you can spray clear over it). If you did manage to get some runs, sand the area VERY lightly. The challenge with base coat is that it is very thin and very easy to sand through. Also, most base coats need to be cleared over the top within a 24 hr period. If you go longer than that, you'll have to rough up the base a bit then spray the clear.

Then spray the clear coat over that. The clear will be a little thicker and easier to run, but just do some even sprays, lighter coats. Don't start/stop the spray over the area you're painting. Do that after you've made a pass, in the air. Don't change directions during a pass, etc. If you do manage to get a nice even finish, you may be good to go. If you REALLY want it to shine, sand all the orange peal out of the clear (clear is harder to sand through so you can work it a bit more..the higher quality clear the more you can work it) with 800 grit, then move up to 1500, then 2000, then 3000, then buff it with a buffing compound. It will be MIRROR shiney when you're done! ...But that's probably WAAAAY overkill for some handlebars, especially if the only area exposed is the center where there is no tape. The bars I have done were both 3T Aeronova with flat tops that you don't wrap with tape...so I wanted it to look really nice.


Have fun! ...that's probably more than you needed to know :-) possibly overkill, but seriously, with a can of each there's no reason it should take too long