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6'5" and #180 here, ~16/35 dress shirt. I prefer a style of "understated roadie". In that style, some of Castelli's kits work for me (if they're not too loud visually). I tend to go for their XXL in long sleeve tops; sometimes XL. The Italians have very different ideas of sizes than we do!
For technical long-sleeve tops but utterly non-roadie, I've found some good results with Under Armor or similar "compression" tops. They're not cut for a position that's strongly bent over, but they can work. They'll feel a little odd in the shoulders if you're deep in the drops. Craft (the company) has some excellent running and cross-country skiing tops that fit the same bill. They also have some cycling clothing that can be more understated. Rab makes some really nice technical clothing for general fleece, down, rain shells, etc., that fit me well.
For short sleeves, I fit a large in Castelli, Capo, Craft, and Twin Six. All have some designs that are more plain than full-on Team Issue.
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