Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Its been a great thread and extremely informative! Im just curious as to what the experts have to say about the chainstays on the Big Leg Emma in relationship to effeciency,stiffness etc. Anyone care to give that a gander? Thanks in advance, Steve |
Quote:
what do you think? |
Because of this thread I just had to spent last evening ooh-ing and ah-ing over curly-stayed Hetchins over the years. Thanks for the memories. :)
And thanks to the little birdies who gave me some historical factoids on seat stay development and put some things in perspective. The list of possible frame builders just got shorter. |
Quote:
Tim McTeague |
will this thread convince richard sachs to start making curvy stays???
|
Quote:
Chainstays mostly have to resist chain tension in compression (more so on the drive side) and lateral bending due to chain load being off-center. Compression loads due to chain tension are relatively minor (particularly on road bikes due to higher gearing) and can be resisted fine by most stays. However, as discussed by the experts above, when chain tension tries to bend the chainstays laterally, it is important to resist motion in that direction (i.e. – control rear wheel yaw) or the back wheel can wag from side to side like a dog’s tail. And obviously if that happens to an appreciable amount you essentially introduce rear wheel steering which adversely affects the way the bike handles and may also introduce poor drivetrain efficiency (i.e. – flexibility may reduce pedaling power). To make the chainstays stiffer, you can increase their size to make them stiffer in bending (side to side direction), make them shorter, affix the axle end so as to load the chainstays differently, or by increasing the number of stays. Or you can use a combination of all of these. Beefing up seatstays is another matter that I can’t quite follow. The main function of seatstays from my perspective is to support the rider’s vertical weight, to control rear wheel roll motion, and to provide a mounting place for the rear brake. IMO since straight stays are plenty stiff in compression regardless of how lightweight they are made, I see no advantage in making them heavier unless: 1) they are anticipated to buckle under expected load or; 2) they flex excessively in bending when the rear brake is applied (I’ve heard of this happening more so on tandems). Outside of meeting those functional requirements, making seatstays stiffer is beyond me -- I don’t see how it would improve anything unless taken to unrealistic extremes. Regarding the Big Leg Emma, placing a horizontal strut inside a tube is an interesting solution, but I honestly don’t get it unless it’s for nostalgic reasons -- seems like a lot of work. If butted tubing was not possible, then I could see it as a means to reinforce a tube locally without introducing added weight throughout the entire length. However, with present tubing technologies it seems that custom butting would be easier and more effective. Do any of you know why it was done back in the 60s? Perhaps some here could shed some historical light on this technique. Personally I would love to learn more about it since I find it intriguing. |
Quote:
serottas with the curvy stays and the oval by round top tubes, and the biconical down tubes. i don't care how they work (but i do know they work perfectly), they were and still are state of the art atmo. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
put them on the frame listserve or frameforum.net so that folks who need an edge can use them atmo. |
Quote:
The point I was trying to make is that I believe you can analyze the rear triangle of the bike as a sping + mass. The spring constant, to first order, is going to be the seat stay. In the case of a straight stay, the constant is so high that no appreciable deflection occurs at the rear axle during typical riding. In the case of a terraplane or dks stay, the constant is intentionally lowered to the point where rear axle deflection occurs during normal riding. Having said that (assuming its a valid comparison), once you deflect the rear axle upwards, you have stored energy into the spring (stay), and you need to dissipate that energy (damp the system), otherwise the system will resonate. When you ride the bike, if you hit a sharp edge of pavement or what not, you are essentially applying an impulse or step input to the spring+mass system. The response of the spring+mass is going to either be underdamped, overdamped, or critically damped depending on the parameters of the spring+mass. In the DKS seat stay, was the elastomer providing the damping for the system or was it providing some other function? Just trying to understand... Kent |
Quote:
Yo Atmo, I gotta' say, this DWF cat is a boring mofo. All bidness. Shut up Archi! |
Quote:
but remember: i said i liked the total package, not just the chainstays atmo. gestalt bro. |
Not sure if anyone knew, so I just thought I would
add that Bicycle Quarterly recently tested a Trek spa elastomer road bike with a claimed 1/2 inch of travel. Both Jan and his fellow tester found it to actually work/be of use. They felt that even with wide tires (28c roly poly's) they could still feel the difference the added travel made in the ride. The main issue being that there was some unwanted pogo-ing at times- which may very well be addressed according to Trek with different elastomer gauges. So indeed it would seem that travel can be of use/added comfort for those who want it. For anyone who wants to read the article here's the issue (article bolded): Vol. 4, No. 4 (Summer 2006) 1 Peter Rich: A Pioneer of American Road Racing 4 Readers’ Forum 5 Book Review: Lightweight Cycles Catalogues Volume I 5 Web Resources: EBykr.com 6 Book Review: "Flying Scotsman" by Graeme Obree 7 Project: Overhauling a 1920s Hirondelle Retro-Directe 8 Riding with Classic Derailleurs – Part 2: Racing Derailleurs 23 Eric Svoboda's Mystery Randonneur Bike 26 To Restore or Not to Restore – That is the (Often Difficult) Question 28 Respecting the Maker's Vision 29 Randonneuring Basics, Part 2: Enjoying the Scenery 30 Spring-Time Adventure in the Cascade Mountains 32 Builders Speak: Mark Nobilette on Making Custom Lugs 34 Test: Ebisu All-Purpose – All Details Considered 38 Test: Trek 2100C – Suspension for Comfort and Speed |
torsion
Quote:
The OS downtubes are there not just to stiffen up the bottom bracket, but to keep the angular deflections down between front and back wheel, along with the chainstays of course. Just my guesses. Haven't touched a finite element package since school. |
Quote:
|
Is anyone else on here having trouble reading
this thread on their browser? (I'm using Firefox) My computer is displaying the threads rather haphazardly, that is out of order todays posts before yesterday posts etc? Would like to hear if anyone else is having this trouble. JL |
Quote:
|
Quote:
I was referring to the fact that the natural damping of real engineering materials is quite small. For some steels, it's in the range of 0.0006, which means that for all practical purposes any energy that is stored by a steel spring will be returned. The natural damping of aluminum, for example, is even lower. IMO real material “damping” is insignificant, and should not be confused with what most people report as a smooth or damped ride. The reason I stated that IMHO low damping is a good thing is a little complicated to express without art (I tried that a couple of weeks ago and was shot down). Anyway, before I even try to describe my reasoning, I want to iterate that in my opinion, road and MTB suspensions are two different animals and shouldn't be compared as one. On a road bike we are dealing mostly with forced vibration as is the case on an MTB; but IMO most of the interest is in reducing high-frequency low-amplitude buzz associated with rough surfaces; and not that associated with jumping over rocks, logs, etc… which we seldom do on road bikes. Having said that, damping is mostly useful when the forcing frequency is around the range of the suspension's natural frequency (i.e. – damping can limit oscillation amplitude when the system resonates) – but much below and above that it doesn’t buy much if anything. In fact more damping than optimum for a given condition is often counterproductive. Logically, we can predict that any bike with a low-enough suspension spring constant to do any good (like Terraplane, DKS and others) will have a lower natural frequency that the forcing frequency of a few 100 cycles per second that an accomplished rider will often experience at or above 20 MPH. Because of this we can conclude that no or very little damping will be beneficial. It will allow the wheels to oscillate up and down over the road's imperfections without giving the rider enough time to move up and down himself -- hence what we feel as smoothness or a smoother ride. Obviously, the lower the spring constant of the suspension, the easier it is for the wheels to ride up and down over imperfections on the road without having enough time to affect the rider to the same degree. Also, lower spring constant lessens shock forces when the bike strikes objects like rocks or pot holes. If you try to run the math on curved seatstays acting as springs, don't forget that it gets complicated because the springs (i.e. -- seatstays) do not behave as linear or progressive springs as is the case in most vehicle suspensions. The more they bend the lower the spring constant. Where it gets complicated is in the rebound phase because the spring constant increases and you can experience a catapulting effect. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:01 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.