Painting carbon handlebars: help
 

I have some edge/enve handlebars and want to paint them all black. Has anybody done this? If so can you share the correct steps on how you did it.

scuff lightly with sandpaper
prime
paint
clear
ride

or just paint em black and forego proper prep/finishing, there is only what...4" of exposed bar anyways? probably wont see much abuse.

Depends on the level of shine and durability you're after. Default answer would be to follow eBAUMANN's post above. If you want to go a step further see below:

I've done this several times (painted CF frames, bars, seat posts,etc). There's probably a matte clear on the bars now. Don't sand through it, just rough it up thoroughly with 600 grit paper. You'll know if youre sanding into the cf layer if the sanding dust goes from white/gray to black/very dark grey. For the best look and durability I would spray on a black base coat, then a clear which will protect the black from the abuse the bars will take. This is assuming you want a nice gloss black. If not, then just get a single stage matte black paint (meaning you don't need a clear coat over the top of it), spray the exposed area and be done with it. For bars I don't think you need to pay the extra $$$ for a high-solids catalyzed clear. I'd go to an auto parts store and get a rattle can black base coat, as well as a good lacquer clear coat, also in a rattle can. **For frames I pay the extra $$$ for 2K automotive clear, where you mix the clear with a catalyst and a reducer...its much much more durable than a regular clear coat.

Its very easy to spray an even base coat...do a few very light coats if you're worried. Base coat paint is very thin, dries pretty quick, and is pretty forgiving. You REALLY have to overdo it to get runs. Let that dry 30 min (follow instructions for how long to wait until you can spray clear over it). If you did manage to get some runs, sand the area VERY lightly. The challenge with base coat is that it is very thin and very easy to sand through. Also, most base coats need to be cleared over the top within a 24 hr period. If you go longer than that, you'll have to rough up the base a bit then spray the clear.

Then spray the clear coat over that. The clear will be a little thicker and easier to run, but just do some even sprays, lighter coats. Don't start/stop the spray over the area you're painting. Do that after you've made a pass, in the air. Don't change directions during a pass, etc. If you do manage to get a nice even finish, you may be good to go. If you REALLY want it to shine, sand all the orange peal out of the clear (clear is harder to sand through so you can work it a bit more..the higher quality clear the more you can work it) with 800 grit, then move up to 1500, then 2000, then 3000, then buff it with a buffing compound. It will be MIRROR shiney when you're done! ...But that's probably WAAAAY overkill for some handlebars, especially if the only area exposed is the center where there is no tape. The bars I have done were both 3T Aeronova with flat tops that you don't wrap with tape...so I wanted it to look really nice.


Have fun! ...that's probably more than you needed to know :-) possibly overkill, but seriously, with a can of each there's no reason it should take too long

I need that^ in ral2011 any leads??

Just use plasti-dip spray from Home Depot or an auto store. It goes on easy and peels back off without leaving marks. Plus it functions as grip/fiber paste.

Thanks everybody!

Following up on Wayne's post above, a very good automotive 1-stage clear coat is SprayMax 1K (about $15/can, though, iirc).

The better, 2-stage clear is SprayMax 2K, at about double the price though, and with the added problem that you cannot spray and store as you can with the 1 K. The 2K catalyst bonds/hardens with the lacquer inside the can within roughly 48 hours once released, and then everything inside becomes rock hard.

If buying other black paint + clear, try to make sure they are chemically compatible (same brand, etc.), as some clears do not react well at all with some base paints. Follow all instructions re: temp, off-gassing/curing time between coats, etc., and the bars will look pro.
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I wanted it to have a matte finish like the enve stem. Would I still need to use a clear coat?

OP you have to do this with polyurethane car grade paint. I have no idea which handlebars are you talking about but I would just sand the finish and re-clear the heck out of it using sprymax2k...

Paint a handlebar in black? waste of time and money IMO.

States in my original post I have enve/edge handlebars. I guess I don’t have to paint them but I think it would look much better then having a big white edge logo.

I think what ultra is saying is:
1) gently, pogressivlely, sand off all white ENVE logos (without sanding off all the clear and sanding off any actual carbon) until you achieve a consistent carbon (black) finish in the area from handlebar wrap to handlebar wrap.

2) then clear coat with SprayMax 1K or 2K.

By the way, re: your question about achieving a matt finish to match the ENVE stem, 1K comes in matt and gloss, and 2K comes in matt, semi-gloss, and gloss.

Also, I see there are much better prices for SprayMax on eBay than at any auto body store. It is definitely far superior to cheaper Krylon, etc. clears, and it never yellows.
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EDIT: I see that cadence90 beat me to it...saying the same thing essentially...using fewer words :-)

You'll definitely need a solid color if you don't want to sand the logos off. You can either spray it with a single stage matte solid color which wouldn't require a clear coat (maybe less durable, not sure...) or follow the directions I posted earlier but spray with a matte clear. CF isn't really black so you'll need something more of a dark charcoal color in satin or matte. If you really want to duplicate the existing finish however you'll need to carefully sand off the ENVE logo (not too hard, just don't sand into the CF layers) then re spray with a satin or matte clear coat. That way you'll have the real CF color coming through. I'm by no means an expert so others may have better advice.

**BTW, I've found you can get pretty close to a satin finish even with a gloss clear. When wet sanding the clear to get the orange peel out just stop at 2000 or 3000 grit. Going beyond that with the buffing compound is what creates the glossy mirror finish.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...665a4c2d18.jpg

I did those forks w plasti-dip in like 10min w no real prep, and have since peeled it off. Seriously, give it a try.. KISS.

Wow that looks really nice. I'd go this route. I've never used Plastidip but it sounds like it's pretty easy to do.