Trek Crockett - question for owners
 

For those that own a Trek Crockett, or deal with Treks, I have a question about installing an internal Di2 system on this frame. I do not own one of these at this time but am looking to pick one up and ideally build it out with hydraulics and Di2.

From what I can tell there are two things missing:

1. No hole in the seat tube for a front derailleur wire. I could always make a nice neat little hole for this.

2. I checked out a complete build of a Crockett on a showroom floor. The downtube does not join the bottom bracket in a 'traditional' manner. See internet photo below. The downtube is attached to the BB 75% of the way around with the bottom portion of the down tube left open for the front derailleur cable to come out of. This leads me to speculate that there isn't a hole in the BB shell where the down tube joins it.
If the BB does not have a hole where the downtube joins, then there can not be a wire coming from junction box A (from the shifters) to connect to junction box B which would be in the seat tube - for a completely internal Di2 system.

Just for clarity...traditionally there are holes in the BB shell for junction of:
- Each chainstay
- Seat tube
- Down tube

Does anyone know for a fact that there is or isn't a hole in the BB shell where the downtube joins?

Any other things to consider on building a Crockett with internal Di2?

It looks like you can run a wire to the rear derailleur through the chainstay drain hole. (see internet photo below - this photo came from a guy that built up an external Di2 system with a single chainring. I am looking to have a front derailleur as well as everything internal).

http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=...09%09%09%09%09

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Aps2LFtV9N...itled-6987.jpg

I happen to have a friend's DI2 equiped Crockett that I'm borrowing while they're out of town :D I snapped a few photos of their set-up that I hope help. Let me know if you'd like photos of anything else.

they had a stock one with Di2 in '15

looks to be partially external

Looks like the crockett easily has room for a 700X45 tire. That is good info for my future builds.

Absolutely. I have 45mm WTB Riddlers on mine. The frame has loads of clearance. The only place where a 45 mm tire is tight is the right chainstay behind the dimple for the chain ring. There was about 1.5 mm there but I dished the rear wheel a few mm inwards. Now I have close to 4mm. Since it's a disc wheel, doing that had no downside. With a 650B
rim I'm pretty sure you could even fit a MTB tire.

It's a really versatile frame...it has attachments for fenders as well. Great value.

Thank you! Is it true that due to the extra clearance for tires, there is not enough clearance for a stages power meter?

Not sure how much clearance a Stages unit needs, but with my 1st gen SRAM Red22 cranks, there's about 5mm between the inside of the left crank arm and left chainstay

Checked on my 2017, according to stages a 10mm hex wrench needs to fit between chainstay and crank arm. With an Ultegra crank there was not enough clearance.

That is a pity. Maybe I need to sell my Crockett and bring home a 333FAB Ti All Roads...

Maybe try watteam powerbeat g2? Glued it up last night. Goes on the underside of the crankarms.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I can confirm that a Stages powermeter on an Ultegra crank does not work on the 2016 model Crockett.
Not only does a 10mm hex (used to measure the gap) wrench not fit, the Stages meter its self actually hits the chainstay.

Its a no-go.

The flip side, as mentioned above, it has a lot of tire clearance.

Just confirming what has already been said above. The Di2 will most likely need to be partially external, at least for the junction box as there really isn't a place to slide an internal one into the frame.

Also, as for Stages, the standard road models will not work. I ended up picking up a Sram X7 mountain bike Stages and paired that with a Force 1 drive-side crank. The spacing on the X7 gave enough clearance, and I've never noticed any issues as far as having the Q-factor being slightly different on the non-drive side.

I wish my cassette was that clean.

I'll raise you to a chain that clean.

I put the B junction box in the seat post. The trick was put the wire in BB shell (you will have to very very slightly drill out the drain hole. Then run the wire up and out of the seat post. Wire it outside of the seat post and drop it in. Plus I had to run the FD wire around and up.

[IMG]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/433/3...d74ee9d8_z.jpgIMG_1420 by Jon Mandel, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]https://farm1.staticflickr.com/625/3...6b9255a4_z.jpgIMG_1418 by Jon Mandel, on Flickr[/IMG]

Full pictures and directions in a similar thread across the hall.