Velo News-Chain Lube
 

Just got new copy of Velo. Has a chain lube comparison test. Very interesting. Paraffin wax seems to be their choice if you do not mind a little extra work.

Awesome!
 

Hardly seems like extra work though according to this guy :)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubr...sing-Paraffin/

Thanks for that post though. Love learning something new:hello:

Is there no pre-dip cleaning? That would be nice. Did I understand that correctly?

I think it is more work than just applying lube. I would want the chain real clean. They had a very scientific study & wax worked better-less friction. I have not used melted paraffin wax on a chain since the 1970s. I think I will give it a try.

Isn't wax what the chain is lubricated with from the factory? I can get 300-400 miles out of the original chain wax, which rocks.

I would think you would have to clean it as well, but he didn't mention it in his instructions.

Its grease, straight from the horse's mouth.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/...-with-shimano/

Should be pointed out that it is also a rust inhibitor, since the chains, altho in plastic, do come over onna boat.

Used to wax chains, late 80s. Little metal tub of wax, into a pan of hot water..wax melts, chain goes in...pull out, onto a piece of newspapaer..let cool(harden) and then install. Lot of trouble for a short lived chainlube.

Velo News-Chain Lube
 

I used to wax my chains in the 90s. Performance used to sell cans of chain wax impregnated with Teflon. I wish I could find it again.

Wipe the chain off before dipping it (clean off old lube first time). After the chain has been waxed once, all you need to do is wipe the chain with a rag before waxing next time.

I prefer wax, as the chain lasts longer (IMO) and your drivetrain stays far cleaner than when you use lube.

One thing you can do if you don't have a wax heater: put the wax in old coffee can. Put the can into a pan of water so the bottom couple inches is submerged. Heat the pan on a hot plate or electric stove burner at a low heat until the wax is fully melted.

After removing the chain from the wax, I would drop it on an old towel. Let the wax dry fully. Then wipe all of the excess wax from the chain (not in your kitchen). There should be nothing left on your chain except a waxy film. Reinstall.

In hot weather, you will have to wax more frequently, but your chain stays clean and quiet for a good while.

If you are OCD, use two cans of wax. Use the first to dip and clean the dirty chain -- you can even leave it submerged in the melted wax for 30 secs or so. Wipe the chain immediately after removing it from wax, and then immediately dip in the can of clean wax.

I'm going to look for the wax heater. This seems to be a good, simple way to do this at a work bench.

Good info. Thanks.

Wax suks. Just reno'd part of my basement and found an old can of wax. Tossed the damn thing in the waste.

Wax lasts maybe 100 miles.

Wasn't that 'waxing is a PITA' thing why White Lightning came about in the first place?

:ear

I'll stick to Tri-Flow in the spray can. Quick. Easy. Lasts a decent interval. (and I have a big can of it)

M

Paraffin wax
 

I tried Paraffin wax in wet Seattle. Maybe could for 250 miles before it had little effect after riding in the rain
Charles
PS I like Pro-Link Less dirt pickup so chain keeps clean lots longer and when applying cleans the chain. Just run chain while holding a rag around it

For me, the waxing, itself, is not a big deal. However, punching holes in a perfectly good chain just to clean it, is not my idea of safety (quicklinks excluded). I still think regular cleaning (say,,, every 200 miles) and re-lubing with a good homebrew, triflow, etc., goes a long way toward chain longevity.

Mike in AR:beer:

I gave in waxing years ago - it never seemed to last and the chains seemed to wear quickly.

I now follow Zinn's advice - a quick wipe with ProGold afer (almost) every ride.

http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/...d-chain_108165

Does the new article hav some new advice?

What was their reason for wax? Lower drag?

try this
 

I'm a huge fan of this:
http://www.finishlineusa.com/product...c_wet_lube.htm
So much so that I have given bottles to friends just so they will try it out and say, "Wow, that stuff is great!" and so Finish Line will continue to make it.

I just put a little on a clean chain (it is easy to use too much of this stuff) put a rag on the chain and back pedal a few times. I'll do this every 3-4 rides. The chain stays relatively clean, it wipes off clean and reapplies easily.

What's cool is after you apply it you can run your finger down your chain and literally feel how slick this stuff is. Then when you start to ride you'll also notice that your chain is all but silent on your gears.

Seriously, try it.

I agree. Can't imagine anyone recommending it. Been there done that.

pycho sexual properties, sounds dangerous
 

Ceramic WET™ is Finish Line’s most advanced and most effective racing lubricant. This wet-style full synthetic lubricant is enhanced with a nano-sized platelets of boron nitride and micron particles of fluoropolymer. As Ceramic WET builds it’s ceramic coating on the frictional surfaces of a drivetrain, cyclists will feel the smoothness and appreciate the added quietness. Ceramic WET ensures maximum drivetrain efficiency. This performance level often provides a physiological (reserved energy) and psychological (confidence) advantage for cyclists during climbs and sprints.

Ceramic WET’s extreme durability, amazing smoothness and ultimate quietness will exceed the expectations of most cyclists! This patented technology is sure to change the way mechanics prepare a bike for a race and it may even change the way racers compete during the race.

Gotta get me some of that! :eek:

Or you could grab some chainlube from across the Hall and support a good cause at the same time.

yikes..

I will be applying "Ballers Lube" tomorrow........to a chain.

Since it has not been mentioned yet, I will put in a vote for Chain-L lube. It is everything they advertise it to be.

Love the way this stuff lasts. Absolutely, positively HATE the way it attracts and holds dirt and then slings it all over everything. Really, there HAS to be a way to have an oil that works well and lasts...and doesn't make your road bike look like you just ran a muddy CX course.

Try Breakfree CLP. Not expensive and it works very well. No need to keep buying those hip brand lubes. Triflow is very good too.

LOVE Cahin-L. If you absolutely strip and dry your chain, apply a teeny weeny drop to each link, let it soak in a while, wipe the mother loving bejeezus out of it, I've found it stays clean. Super quiet chain and it lasts forever.

Admit it, you're just having Justin do this. There's no way you have that kind of time with kids and a job. It takes me two days to find enough time to glue a tubular.

Ha! I actually like doing this stuff, I just get up REALLY early to ride and do my bike stuff. I find if I try to wedge it in between family/work stuff I just end up frustrated. You know of what I speak, Mr. SuperCommuter!

Me too love Chain L, at least for road bike. I don't bother to strip factory lube, and perhaps put a few more drops every 600 or 800 miles. Yes it is dirty, but lasts till I change the chain every 2500 miles or so. Never a squeak even with lots of wet rides.

Can't beat that.

I have a sample bottle and yep, it lubes and quiets everything but it reminds me of 30w. Very thick and boy, does it get dirty.

1 part chainsaw oil to 3 parts (or so) mineral spirits. Consistency should be in the neighborhood of maple syrup. Homebrew and be done with it.

Very little has been said about the VELO article that seemed unbiased & scientific. It had numbers to back up that paraffin wax made your drivetrain more efficient. "The only real argument against paraffin wax is its more intensive application process. It's obviously the fastest in ideal conditions, & even in nasty conditions it is still an exceptional single-day lube." I found this surprising but have not used paraffin wax on a chain since I was a child. {a long time ago}

Agreed. If you limit the application per quote, and wipe the chain down occasionally, it doesn't seem to get any dirtier than anything else I've tried.

Yeah, it (waxing) seems like a lot of trouble to go through for what seems like a pretty small amount of benefit (in terms of wattage). Maybe if your Team Sky and the mechanic does it for you, but a Joe-Schmoe like me... I'll stick with my ProGold ProLink.

If waxing truly results in a chain with the lowest friction losses, will pro teams show up to the Tour with 20 pre-waxed chains for their GC leader? Wash the bike, pop on the new chain and get your leader a few extra watts.

Gotta be suspicious of so-called objective scientific studies that cost $4.95 to read them. A bit of peer-review would take these claims down, I suspect.

I grew up using white lighting but have debated trying chain-L but the idea of dirty chains isn't attractive. Does anyone have a happy medium they would reccomend?

The key to low friction metal surfaces is PTFE. Any lube rich with it will provide excellent lubrication properties....pretty much second to none. The wax in Ultrachain appears to be the carrier for deposition and to help stabilized the PTFE and keep it in place until its embedded in the metal pores. The teflon is the key element.